I wanted to replace the wooden gas tube cover on my SKS with a metal one. To do so, I ended up drilling out the gas pin as to my understanding they aren't an essential part. Metal cover looked good but seemed to be a bit short and rattled a little. I thought nothing of it and took it to the range to test it. After the first shot, the spring guide rod got stuck back and the gun jammed up. I emptied it and tried again with one round, and the same malfunction happened. Checking the gas system, the piston occasionally gets stuck in the back of the tube and has to be whacked against a table to free it, but I'm not sure if that's whats causing this issue. If anyone has an idea what the issue is, any help or solutions would be greatly appreciated.
SKS Gas System Malfunction
- Thread starter Archangel1241
- Start date
gewehr76
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Sounds like your new improvement made gas piston out of alignment with extension piston. If they are not aligned properly against each other you get a wedging action due to gas piston not being returned squarely back in to the gas tube after each shot.
The end cap ferrule that has the pin serves as positioning point and keeps them parallel. So if its not installed correctly or as you say they are lose then they will contact each other at an angle and jam up after firing. Also could be the weak spring in extension piston has not enough force to push the piston back as well
The end cap ferrule that has the pin serves as positioning point and keeps them parallel. So if its not installed correctly or as you say they are lose then they will contact each other at an angle and jam up after firing. Also could be the weak spring in extension piston has not enough force to push the piston back as well
^ ^ Or the ext-piston is hanging up inside due to never being removed when bought. Cosmo can get in there, so those should be checked too. And 'Leaking gas' could dry out the lube (if there was any to start with). I use PTFE grease that is 'High-temp' resistant.
Don't think I can call it an "improvement" when it completely ####ed my rifle, haha. Any chance replacing the ferrule pin or using a replacement like a finishing nail would solve the issue? or is replacing the gas system my only option?
when i first bought the rifle i did a fairly comprehensive teardown to clean out any cosmoline in the system. It's my understanding that the gas tube and piston are supposed to be dry and not oiled, at least that's what ive read from other posts.
gewehr76
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Well if the ferrule end cap can be reinstalled then yes you can secure it with any nail or pin with same diameter. Don't know how much it was bubbayed, if its still lose or sitting lower then probably need new gas tube. The issue is that these gas tubes are serial numbered and still may not fit correctly.
Brass balls
Regular
- Location
- Frozen wasteland to the north
Just find a small spring pin punch it through and file to fit.
# 5 - Yes, those parts S/B kept 'dry' but I always put 'just a dash' of oil in the tube to prevent RUST - NOT "lots" - depends on how often you shoot.
HOWEVER, IMO it's just 'thoughtful' to lube the "ext-piston/spring" since they Do Not get lotsa gas and thus not get too dirty. I check mine every 3-4 "full cleanings", "just to be sure". An extra 3-4,min ? I always cleaned to bare metal, but I mostly shot ChMS,even in my FT, just cleaned even after 10 shots.
PS - I left my FT with the 'wood' just or the hellobit, even tho I had it in a Tapco System. Gotta keep any little bit of wood when you get to my age.
HOWEVER, IMO it's just 'thoughtful' to lube the "ext-piston/spring" since they Do Not get lotsa gas and thus not get too dirty. I check mine every 3-4 "full cleanings", "just to be sure". An extra 3-4,min ? I always cleaned to bare metal, but I mostly shot ChMS,even in my FT, just cleaned even after 10 shots.
PS - I left my FT with the 'wood' just or the hellobit, even tho I had it in a Tapco System. Gotta keep any little bit of wood when you get to my age.
REALLY? You mucked around with parts you don't understand and now you have no idea why the thing isn't working? REALLY?
Here's a thought. STOP FUKCING AROUND WITH A RIFLE YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND.
A finishing nail? REALLY? Where in the entirety of the gun world have we seen any manufacturer or gunsmith use a finishing nail for anything?
Stop, JUST STOP. Go and find a gunsmith to correctly fix what you have bubba'd and buggered up. A finishing nail????????????
OP
This is a confusing post because you're creating new terminology for various parts, so one can only guess about what you are describing.
I'm assuming that the:
"gas pin" is the ferrule pin for the handguard+piston tube?
"the spring guide rod" is the operating-rod (aka, op-rod aka secondary piston)?
It sounds like the op rod is not returning after recoil? And the end of the op rod is protruding from this hole in the rear of the rear sight block
If this is what you are describing, the op-rod, or the op-rod spring, (or both) could be damaged. Did you remove the op-rod and spring when you had the rifle disassembled?
Remove the handguard, and then remove the op-rod and spring for thorough inspection. Be careful removing the op-rod. The spring is under immense tension and both the op-rod and spring will go flying at high speed if you don't take steps to prevent it. Post photos of the oprod and spring, and also run a Q-tip inside the op-rod channel to check for burs.
Disassembly video link will start at removal of op-rod and spring:
This is a confusing post because you're creating new terminology for various parts, so one can only guess about what you are describing.
I'm assuming that the:
"gas pin" is the ferrule pin for the handguard+piston tube?
"the spring guide rod" is the operating-rod (aka, op-rod aka secondary piston)?
It sounds like the op rod is not returning after recoil? And the end of the op rod is protruding from this hole in the rear of the rear sight block
If this is what you are describing, the op-rod, or the op-rod spring, (or both) could be damaged. Did you remove the op-rod and spring when you had the rifle disassembled?
Remove the handguard, and then remove the op-rod and spring for thorough inspection. Be careful removing the op-rod. The spring is under immense tension and both the op-rod and spring will go flying at high speed if you don't take steps to prevent it. Post photos of the oprod and spring, and also run a Q-tip inside the op-rod channel to check for burs.
Disassembly video link will start at removal of op-rod and spring:
Bubba Yugga
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Midwestern Ontario
If you have access to where aircraft mechanics hang out, ask for an aluminum rivet P/N NAS1097AD3-8.
Then watch a youtube on how to install solid rivets.
Then watch a youtube on how to install solid rivets.
