no way, I'd rather take a great chamber over a great crown.
just use a cleaning rod that doesn't damage a steel barrel......I'm on year 6 of just free-ballin' a brass rod on every rifle.
$30 for a $1 piece of plastic is crazy to me.
Bore Guides 22 rimfire
- Thread starter opto55
- Start date
just use a cleaning rod that doesn't damage a steel barrel......I'm on year 6 of just free-ballin' a brass rod on every rifle.
$30 for a $1 piece of plastic is crazy to me.
Then you don't know anything about rifle accuracy.
The crown is the most important part of a barrel because that is the last bit of the barrel the bullet touches.
Then you have spent 6 years slowly damaging your barrels.
Damaging a $500 barrel ... or in your case multiple $500 barrels due to a refusal to spend $30 is what is crazy.
But hey, you do you and if you choose to damage expensive rifles to save $30 then thats you.
Another for the list of NEVER PURCHASE A FIREARM FROM!!!Then you don't know anything about rifle accuracy.
The crown is the most important part of a barrel because that is the last bit of the barrel the bullet touches.
Then you have spent 6 years slowly damaging your barrels.
Damaging a $500 barrel ... or in your case multiple $500 barrels due to a refusal to spend $30 is what is crazy.
But hey, you do you and if you choose to damage expensive rifles to save $30 then thats you.
I ordered mine right from Possum Hollow directly.
Cat
- Location
- Northeastern Ontario
While the crown has a role, it's important not to overstate its significance.Then you don't know anything about rifle accuracy.
The crown is the most important part of a barrel because that is the last bit of the barrel the bullet touches.
Perhaps this is an unfair analogy, but it may be like saying a car's tires are the most important because they are in contact with the pavement. For one thing, it ignores the importance of the engine.
The chamber "holds" the round in place so it's set to enter the bore in the best way. Not all chambers do this equally well. The bullet must go by the leade (just in front of the chamber) and get into the bore. The bore is very important.
To be good it must be consistent in aspects such as its rifling, diameter and concentricity throughout its length. Finally, as it exits it gives the crown a goodbye kiss. Without the quality of the journey to the crown, the quality of the goodbye kiss will not mean much.
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With regard to bore guides, think of them as rod guides because that's what they do. They guide the cleaning rod safely through the bore.
No one should use a cleaning rod without one.
The chamber is the most important because its the first thing the round touches....Otherwise it'd just fall out of your gun! Lets see your perfect crown deal with a round sitting 4' away on the floor from your bolt face.
God, I reallllyyyy dont care about youuuuuuuuuuu
God, I reallllyyyy dont care about youuuuuuuuuuu
Buck - what’s your favourite Cleaning fluid ? Do you brush it too ? Nylon or Brass ?
ThxsRJ, lebnic, et al - I use Boretech C4 to soak about 1/2-hour in the chamber if the borescope shows a Carbon ring beginning. I may use a nylon brush after the C4 if necessary. The C-ring begins ca 150 rounds in my 22s altho the accuracy doesn't fall off until 200 or more. I rarely shoot over 100-150 per rifle so they get cleaned before the carbon can 'set up' - Easier 'same day'. Often i'll put a wet patch in at the range and finish cleaning when I get home. The 'damp patch' will then get pushed thru the bore and that usually is all that gets unless the borescope showed an issue. Occasionally I'll go thru the bore with Hoppes if there seems to be a buildup of cra* but plain lube fouling is not a bad thing, saves needing 10-20 rounds to 're-foul'. Also, I've found that my 'low-cost' 22s collect more cra*, likely due to a 'rougher' bore.
Great Buck - I use lots of C4 Boretech in my rifles - Now what about the LEAD ?
Yes, I'm on my Second 8-oz bottle after 5-6 years. Worth it since I mostly shoot 22lr. If you have 'lead buildup' You might try "vinegar & Hydroger-peroxide" mix to 'dissolve it'. 'Some say' that it will cut thru it. I tried some but maybe had the 'wrong mix %-age' and didn't notice significant result. Or maybe I didn't let it soak long enough or needed several applications? NOTE - there are warnings about the TOXICITY of patches and liquid residue, so I treated it as Hazmat w-rubber gloves and disposal too. I also used a brass brush in that case. If YOU Search for some comments on this and other forums to get ideas you may find a better answer.
Here's one thread I referred to 'back then'; a product suggested is "No Lead" ( Post 36 below - http s://sharpshootr.com/no-lead/ ) but i never tried it. I do use Pro-Shot SVC8 Solvent, but mostly in CF for copper buildup - never thought to try it in 22s. There also is a Birchwood-Casey "Lead Remover" and "Slip-2000" suggested elsewhere that I haven't tried. Lots of different opinions BUT I disagree with those that disparage 'removing' the "bore cra* " that accumulates. I also peruse other forums like 'sniper's hide' and 'rimfire accuracy' and others - can't have 'too much info' IMO.
http s://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/what-is-the-best-way-to-get-lead-out-of-a-22-barrel.4090100/
Here's one thread I referred to 'back then'; a product suggested is "No Lead" ( Post 36 below - http s://sharpshootr.com/no-lead/ ) but i never tried it. I do use Pro-Shot SVC8 Solvent, but mostly in CF for copper buildup - never thought to try it in 22s. There also is a Birchwood-Casey "Lead Remover" and "Slip-2000" suggested elsewhere that I haven't tried. Lots of different opinions BUT I disagree with those that disparage 'removing' the "bore cra* " that accumulates. I also peruse other forums like 'sniper's hide' and 'rimfire accuracy' and others - can't have 'too much info' IMO.
http s://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/what-is-the-best-way-to-get-lead-out-of-a-22-barrel.4090100/
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I am not aware of a .22LR "leading' up a barrel. Typically they wear a bore out ahead of the chamber at 6 o'clock... a strip 6 or 8 inches long... after 100,000 plus rounds. It is caused by shooting a bullet over the previous burnt powder residue. I rebarreled a couple of high round serious target rifle with this high round count. Accuracy was still pretty good but they wanted it better.
^ ^ Yes, not common in modern guns. I have a '30s Stevens that had a bit but came clean easily. More of a C4 job that anything else. If you check the link I put up there you'll see many who have dealt with this issue. . . and several who haven't. Your comment describes what I strive to avoid . . . leaving cra* in the chamber/leade area, even tho my rifles are only ca 3K rounds so far.
The father of a friend of mine had a Nylon 66 barn rifle that had not been cleaned since it was bought in the 70's. It was not extracting, and he asked me to take a look at it. First, the extractor was missing. I found a bolt assembly on ebay, then I decided to completely dissassemble and clean the whole rifle. When I tried to clean the barrel, the cleaning rod would not go. I took an old aluminum cleaning rod and actually drove it through the barrel with a hammer. It pushed out chunk after chunk of lead the more I hammered it I had nothing to lose. I plugged it and completely filled it with bore solvents, Hopps I think, and let it soak over night, then scrubbed it with a bronze brush getting lots more black crap, until it stopped coming. I then switched to swabs and kept going. Followed up with some oil. Ran perfectly with the new/old bolt and shot amazingly well despite the man handling of the barrel.
