Federal top gun shells, failed to chamber next round.

metcalfr

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Hi everyone, I finally had a chance to take out my new beretta 1301 comp pro and put 25 shells through it of federal top gun 2 3/4 ' 1 1/8 oz 7 1/2 shot 1145 fps. Aside from putting some oil on the bolt of the shotgun, I did nothing else, as I didn't find any literature stating that anything had to be lubricated etc out of the box. 3 of the rounds failed to chamber. Anyone else have this issue with these rounds? Is there an actual break in period with these shotguns, that may cause this issue? Thanks.
 

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I only trust a 3 dram equivalent in my semis. That said, i do not have a 1301.
As someone that has just went through a hell of a time with a similar-ish gun (A400 - see separate thread, I probably had 3 rounds that DID chamber out of the first 100 and after a LONG journey it is now fixed) I am curious for more details.

What are the specifics of the failures for the 3 rounds that didn't chamber? ie the previous round didn't extract and thats the root of the failure or the new round jammed as it entered the chamber etc etc?

I would also agree that for a new semi like the 1301 it should be well lubed (specifically the guides in the action for the bolt, I use 0W20 but YMMV) and ran on heavier 1 1/8 oz 3 dram (higher FPS ammo) as suggested. These guns have a break in period and heavier ammo helps with that (it was right in the manual for my A400 to run heavy ammo for break in).

If just 3 rounds didn't chamber in the first 100 then I would bet that the heavier ammo will correct that (lighter ammo may be right on the wire to have enough energy to cycle a newer / tighter gun).

As someone else has mentioned Federal ammo is considered very good quality, I have also had very good luck with Rio 1 1/8 oz 3 dram ammo, it is my go to for solid reliability in competition.
 
As someone that has just went through a hell of a time with a similar-ish gun (A400 - see separate thread, I probably had 3 rounds that DID chamber out of the first 100 and after a LONG journey it is now fixed) I am curious for more details.

What are the specifics of the failures for the 3 rounds that didn't chamber? ie the previous round didn't extract and thats the root of the failure or the new round jammed as it entered the chamber etc etc?

I would also agree that for a new semi like the 1301 it should be well lubed (specifically the guides in the action for the bolt, I use 0W20 but YMMV) and ran on heavier 1 1/8 oz 3 dram (higher FPS ammo) as suggested. These guns have a break in period and heavier ammo helps with that (it was right in the manual for my A400 to run heavy ammo for break in).

If just 3 rounds didn't chamber in the first 100 then I would bet that the heavier ammo will correct that (lighter ammo may be right on the wire to have enough energy to cycle a newer / tighter gun).

As someone else has mentioned Federal ammo is considered very good quality, I have also had very good luck with Rio 1 1/8 oz 3 dram ammo, it is my go to for solid reliability in competition.
Thanks for the reply. I only ran the 25 that I had on hand and limited time. I do have a case of these shells and will get through them fairly quickly this summer. I do plan on buying a case of slugs to run through it and I also have a case of 00 buckshot. I did get a viper vortex red dot scope and will get it sighted in with the slugs and 00 buckshot. I will also lube the bolt and guides and clean it before trying again.
 
I would buy some handicap or heavier loads and run them for a while, some semi's need to break in a bit.

Having said that, I once had a Benelli Vinci that would digest every type of shell I tried in it except Remington Gun Club loads, it just didn't like them!

Thats my gun(s) with Challenger Target loads (in the light blue box) - it seems to run in my new A400 now (after a boat load of work and changed parts) but I still wouldn't trust it and it makes my VM into an jamomatic.

Pretty sure at least part of the problem with the ammo I have is the primers (they look weird / different to other ammo I have on hand).
 
Thanks for the reply. I only ran the 25 that I had on hand and limited time. I do have a case of these shells and will get through them fairly quickly this summer. I do plan on buying a case of slugs to run through it and I also have a case of 00 buckshot. I did get a viper vortex red dot scope and will get it sighted in with the slugs and 00 buckshot. I will also lube the bolt and guides and clean it before trying again.

It sounds like your gun is in a good place and will break in nicely (especially with some heavier ammo) but if it continues to play up take off the hand guard and inspect if there are soot / carbon deposits around the area outside of where this spring sits.

Screenshot 2026-03-19 at 08.07.20.png

If so the spring is too weak and is opening too easily (from what I have seen this shouldn't open at all with 2 3/4 ammo) allowing gas to bleed off which robs energy going to the rear to cycle the bolt (that was the issue with my A400 and now the spring is changed it runs like a champ). The soot and crud in the hand guard are the tell tale signs if this is an issue.

Another easy thing to check is if the gas ports (2) from the barrel are open / clear. I have read about guns having only one port drilled (so would not be getting as much gas into piston which would mean there isn't enough energy to cycle the bolt.

You can see the two ports here:

Screenshot 2026-02-07 at 20.28.21.png

Screenshot 2026-02-07 at 20.28.33.png
 
It sounds like your gun is in a good place and will break in nicely (especially with some heavier ammo) but if it continues to play up take off the hand guard and inspect if there are soot / carbon deposits around the area outside of where this spring sits.

View attachment 1146347

If so the spring is too weak and is opening too easily (from what I have seen this shouldn't open at all with 2 3/4 ammo) allowing gas to bleed off which robs energy going to the rear to cycle the bolt (that was the issue with my A400 and now the spring is changed it runs like a champ). The soot and crud in the hand guard are the tell tale signs if this is an issue.

Another easy thing to check is if the gas ports (2) from the barrel are open / clear. I have read about guns having only one port drilled (so would not be getting as much gas into piston which would mean there isn't enough energy to cycle the bolt.

You can see the two ports here:

View attachment 1146348

View attachment 1146350
Hey thanks, excellent idea.
 
Hey thanks, excellent idea.
Thats my gun(s) with Challenger Target loads (in the light blue box) - it seems to run in my new A400 now (after a boat load of work and changed parts) but I still wouldn't trust it and it makes my VM into an jamomatic.

Pretty sure at least part of the problem with the ammo I have is the primers (they look weird / different to other ammo I have on hand).
Thanks for letting me know, as I was looking at buy a case of challenger slugs. I might want to rethink it.
 
Thanks for letting me know, as I was looking at buy a case of challenger slugs. I might want to rethink it.

Challenger slugs might be OK, pretty sure I have shot some in the past and cannot remember any negative experiences.

These days Score are my go to for slugs (work well and the price is good)
 
Theyre shipped full of packing oil. Clean it lube it and run a few boxes of heavy feild loads thru it
My 1301 comp cycles 2.5" 3/4oz loads with ease
For skeet I use mostly top gun 1145fps because its the best for the money locally and have never had an issue with the ammo across 20+ guns
 
prolly best I say nothng....
other than suggest as others have and that is to clean everything, from trigger group to gas ports.
Use a good quality gun cleaner with a spray hose .
Re-assemble and use G-96 on sliding parts (sparingly of course) .
Don't forget to use a new bronze/brass brush for the chamber as well and forget about drilling out the gas ports no matter what bubbah on the internet tells you.
 
prolly best I say nothng....
other than suggest as others have and that is to clean everything, from trigger group to gas ports.
Use a good quality gun cleaner with a spray hose .
Re-assemble and use G-96 on sliding parts (sparingly of course) .
Don't forget to use a new bronze/brass brush for the chamber as well and forget about drilling out the gas ports no matter what bubbah on the internet tells you.

If you are referring to me you are wide of the mark.

The fact remains that some guns have came with only one port drilled (second port was partially drilled) and there is no denying that this has to make a difference as to how much gas the piston receives (simple physics) so the question is why?

Was it a mistake at the factory?

Is the single port large enough that is can harvest enough gas and so the second port is not required (hence why it is not open but then I would ask why is it partially drilled?)

One thing I have learned from dealing with this very issue in the last few months is that when you approach Stoeger / Beretta with a firearm is not working properly (should it come to that but this is a pretty new firearm which I assume has warranty) it pays to know these sorts of things or you will simply be told "You have a very dirty gas piston" (on a gun that had seen ~250 rounds from new and played up from the very first round when it was spotless) when in the end the issue was a defective part (wrong spring in the bleed system and totally unrelated to the piston).

Knowledge is power and can save a lot of messing around for these types of scenarios..
 
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