Beretta A400 Cycling Issues

Do you have the part number for the 1301 Pro Comp spring and where to get it? I have an a400 extreme plus and have the same issue with targetoads that cycles eell but does bot lock the bolt back. 1300 velocitity works but not 1200 velocivity, i will need that stiffer spring
 
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Do you have the part number for the 1301 Pro Comp spring and where to get it? I have an a400 extreme plus and have the same issue with targetoads that cycles eell but does bot lock the bolt back. 1300 velocitity works but not 1200 velocivity, i will need that stiffer spring

The spring I switched to is for the 1301 Pro Comp and is part number C95387.

The spring I removed which comes in the A400 Xteme Plus is C9A004.
 
On the stoeger canada site i only see 1301 gas piston spring but no 1301 comp pro gas piston spring.

Would the srm arms Beretta A400 Xtreme Gas Seal Bushing be a dirct replacement for that spring without a full piston replacement?
https://srmarms.com/product/beretta-a400-xtreme-gas-seal-bushing/

Yes, the spacer (bushing) can be installed with the original piston. That is basically the polar opposite of what I did however.

I switched to the SRM piston (much higher quality than the Beretta) and 1301 Pro Comp spring. I did have the spacer installed too and went back to the spring. My logic is if it is good enough for the 1301 Pro Comp (which is a 3" chamber but is setup to reliably run 2 3/4" rounds) then it should work in the A400.

The spacer will never ever bleed any excess gas off but the with the stiffer spring the system can still open if you fire some stout rounds which would help take the edge off recoil.

As to reliability my A400 eats anything since I switched to this setup.
 
could be sold out at the moment. I would email them

srm looks like you need both the gas piston and bushing

Nope, definitely not. Can switch either on its own or both. I currently run the SRM piston with 1301 Pro Comp spring.

The gas piston is in the back half of the system and the bushing is fitted to the front half of the system. To put it another way, the back half of the system (ie the piston side) is mandatory for function, the front half (spring / valve etc) are optional and is there mostly to bleed gas off for the higher powered 3.5" rounds to lessen recoil and (mostly IMO) cut down on wear on the gun from being way overgassed.

For anyone considering SRM parts I would recommend calling them, the main guy is called Jeff from memory, thats who I spoke with and he was very helpful. I asked if he would send the parts USPS and he agreed (generally the cheapest option and for some reason has the best luck when it comes to the customs charges lottery)
 
This is a screen grab from Stoegers website parts section (select the drop downs for the 1301 Competition) and the spring is #55 - I paid $15 per spring plus shipping (I bought two):

Screenshot 2026-06-26 at 22.05.37.png

https://www.stoegercanada.ca/parts/

Be forewarned however, while this is the most obvious place to get Beretta parts I can not in good faith recommend them, I go out of my way to avoid the parts guy at Stoeger.
 
This is a screen grab from Stoegers website parts section (select the drop downs for the 1301 Competition) and the spring is #55 - I paid $15 per spring plus shipping (I bought two):

View attachment 1165859

https://www.stoegercanada.ca/parts/

Be forewarned however, while this is the most obvious place to get Beretta parts I can not in good faith recommend them, I go out of my way to avoid the parts guy at Stoeger.
Thank you Sniffer for all those details, the spring C95387 is nowhere on stoeger canada shop so i contacted the parts guys via their message platform to get it but i need reliability somewhat fast enough because i have an upcoming of ipsc matchs, would just the SRM piston work reliably with the stock spring? Or should i get the sleeve too in replacement of the stock spring?
 
Thank you Sniffer for all those details, the spring C95387 is nowhere on stoeger canada shop so i contacted the parts guys via their message platform to get it but i need reliability somewhat fast enough because i have an upcoming of ipsc matchs, would just the SRM piston work reliably with the stock spring? Or should i get the sleeve too in replacement of the stock spring?

I would call Stoeger parts (spit) and enquire about the spring. They should have some and they were $15. Ordering with Stoeger is a PITA (they send you a form to fill out etc - very archaic).

Hands down the spring made the single biggest difference to the gun. I have used the sleeve with the factory piston and it ran fine but the SRM piston is much better quality so I would recommend it.

If you cannot find a spring in short order and you are under a time crunch you could fit the SRM sleeve. It is much easier to install as it is not under compression like the spring when trying to get the nut back on. At minimum you would need the sleeve (if you cannot get the spring). I personally wouldn't shoot anything except 2 3/4" rounds (doesn't sound like you will be if the gun is being used for IPSC duty) with the sleeve installed as I suspect the gun will be overgassed and it could be hard on the received (when the bolt slams against the rear) but there is a hydraulic dampener in there which will help (which the 1301 Pro Comp doesn't have, it has a solid dampener)
 
Thank you Sniffer for all those details, the spring C95387 is nowhere on stoeger canada shop so i contacted the parts guys via their message platform to get it but i need reliability somewhat fast enough because i have an upcoming of ipsc matchs, would just the SRM piston work reliably with the stock spring? Or should i get the sleeve too in replacement of the stock spring?

I forgot to say this previously, the problem spring is fitted to the gas bleed off valve and it sounds like yours (like mine) is bleeding off too much gas leaving too little energy for the piston to properly cycle the gun.

If the valve is opening to early / too easily then upgrading the piston will yield no benefit. If the new piston seals better (and it should IMO) then less gas is leaking past it (sounds good - right?) but that simply means that there will be more pressure in there which will make the gas valve open even more (due to the weak spring).

Until you swap the spring to the 1301 Pro Comp spring or the SRM sleeve you will chase your tail and changing the piston is futile. That should be step #1.

As I have mentioned several times I have upgraded to the SRM piston and would recommend it as it is higher quality IMO but I also firmly believe that these guns will run fine with the standard piston once the gas valve issue is corrected.
 
ok stoegers parts told me the spring were backordered, supplied the form and they will send me it when they receive it from italy, i ordered a GAS VALVE SPRING SPACER part C5G164 as well to put a little more pressure on the valve if needed.

in the meantime i should receive the SRMARMS piston and sleeve that replace the spring to be able to compete in my upcoming matches.

I was thinking about that spring change and the removal should be easy enough but how did you compress the new spring enough to screw the nut? can't find any specific tool for that job on that model, there is probably an easy way to do it without having to buy anything, I already have a bunch of tools of all sorts around but no spring compressor.
 
ok stoegers parts told me the spring were backordered, supplied the form and they will send me it when they receive it from italy, i ordered a GAS VALVE SPRING SPACER part C5G164 as well to put a little more pressure on the valve if needed.

in the meantime i should receive the SRMARMS piston and sleeve that replace the spring to be able to compete in my upcoming matches.

I was thinking about that spring change and the removal should be easy enough but how did you compress the new spring enough to screw the nut? can't find any specific tool for that job on that model, there is probably an easy way to do it without having to buy anything, I already have a bunch of tools of all sorts around but no spring compressor.

Good question.

The new spring (or the spacer in your case) will put even more pressure on the nut when trying to start it and the last thing you want to do is cross thread it.

I used one of these to compress the spring fully:

Trigger Clamp.jpg

And then I used two of these around the coils lengthwise (one on each side 180 degrees from each other) to hold it compressed:

1783043077483.png

Steel tywraps are strong enough to hold it compressed and fine enough to let it still slide into position. When in place start the nut, get it a few turns and then cut the tywraps, pull them out then snug the nut up.

I used blue Loctite on the nut and snugged it up with pump pliers.
 
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