Better at distance

fwm

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I’ve been playing with a new Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and noticed something on multiple range trips. Groups at 100 yds are ok running approximately moa at 100 yds but .6 to .75 moa at 200 and 300 yds with the same load. At 100 it seems consistently to have 2 touching and a half inch gap with 3 touching. The groups at 200 and 300 are normally just a nice round group usually more lateral spread than vertical spread. I don’t have a chrony so I don’t have any data. I don’t shoot past 100 yds often but when I do typically groups get worse with distance not better. I was shooting off an ok front rest with a rear squeeze bag. Rifle is stock and the barrel is free floating. Is this something in my shooting technique?
 
It’s a stock rifle 1:8 twist scope is a 3-15 Burris with parallax adjustment although it has no markings. shooting Hornady ELD match 130gr over H4350. A couple years ago our range had to install ground and overhead baffles. I would say they are approximately 15yds and 30yds in front of the firing line.
 
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I should add I’m not disappointed with the results at all. Really I’m a pretty casual shooter so .75 moa I’m fine with. For the informal competition I bought the rifle for moa would be fine. I’m just curious about what causes the phenomenon. I’ll probably play with action screw torque and do more load development and call it good.
 
Hmm. That bullet and powder combo shouldn’t be an issue… if all screws are tight on the rifle I’d start looking at scope parallax. Your results are pretty good imo, if your parallax adjustment is off, even a small amount of inconsistent head position could throw out your poi.
 
Another idea:

Target shape and style matters a ton with how your eye perceives things. I run into this a lot with handgun shooters.

It’s about consistency. It might be that you end up having a more consistent aiming point when the target is further away (smaller).

Give it some thought next time you’re at the range.
 
Hmm. That bullet and powder combo shouldn’t be an issue… if all screws are tight on the rifle I’d start looking at scope parallax. Your results are pretty good imo, if your parallax adjustment is off, even a small amount of inconsistent head position could throw out your poi.

Do you change power on your scope between distances or do you shoot them all at 15x. If so dial back the x on the shorter distances. Also with parallax- clarity is secondary to the dot/crosshairs not moving on the target if your head/eye move.
The scope is parallax adjustable but it’s not marked for distance. I was adjusting as best I could for clearest image. I would think parallax error would get worse with distance but I’m far from an optics expert. I would sooner shoot irons but eyesight is getting worse with age so I’ve moved to optics on pretty much everything.
I’m shooting 15x at all distances with a 2” sticker as aim point at 100 and a 6” bull at 200 and 300.
Thanks for all feedback
 
Is the contrast the same on both targets? Do they have an aim point or just a full circle?
Do you shift your position to get to the longer targets?
Contrast is the same and full circle for both. At 100 my cross hairs cover the center dot aiming point and at further distance I can’t see the dot. The barrel has to be raised for each further distance as the target points are stepped up in elevation.
 
Contrast is the same and full circle for both. At 100 my cross hairs cover the center dot aiming point and at further distance I can’t see the dot. The barrel has to be raised for each further distance as the target points are stepped up in elevation.
Maybe a small chance that the target is actually better placed within your sight picture at distance? I imagine that you are quartering the bull?
At 100, the crosshairs may be thick enough to float the centre beneath them?
 
The scope is parallax adjustable but it’s not marked for distance. I was adjusting as best I could for clearest image. I would think parallax error would get worse with distance but I’m far from an optics expert. I would sooner shoot irons but eyesight is getting worse with age so I’ve moved to optics on pretty much everything.
I’m shooting 15x at all distances with a 2” sticker as aim point at 100 and a 6” bull at 200 and 300.
Thanks for all feedback
The parallax issue AB Gunner referred to is making sure your target and reticle are on the same visual plane, so they don’t shift between each other as your head changes position.

You set your diopter first. In a nutshell (better descriptions elsewhere), you will point your scope to a blank wall or clear blue sky. Adjust the diopter setting so your reticle is perfectly clear. Close your eye for a moment, then open it again, to confirm clarity.

Then when you are on target, your reticle will be clear, and then you make your target image be clear. If done correctly, those two images will be as one, and a varying head position will still allow you to aim properly.
 
Sierra or Berger match bullet that is also 130gr. Adjust ogive to be 5 thou OFF the lands. Back off and work up the load and see if the consistency offered by a better made bullet help.

Also, the factory barrel will have its limits to accuracy. maybe you are working within the mechanical limits of the pipe?

Jerry
 
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