Chamber repair

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I have two .410 sxs’s with buggered up chambers (scarred and pitted) Been pondering how one might fix them. I have two considerations. One, clean the chamber extremely well, smear the chamber with a high compression epoxy (JB weld or something similar), then rechamber with a chamber reamer. The other thought is to ream out the chamber to the size of the rim, then make a “liner” out of an alloy with high burst strength, install the liner blank, then rechamber. Liner blank installed similar to relining the whole barrel. Has anyone heard of a way to repair buggered up chambers on a shotgun??
 
Usually, it's not so much the chambers, as the rest of the barrels are too thin, pitted, bulged, &c.

I haven't got a clue, unless you can ream the chamber out to 28 gau. then epoxy in a 28 gau. >.410 adapter in place. I do think that the steel epoxy, then re-chambering, route has merit, as long as the guns have some value. If they are cheap SxS .410's, then really, what is the point?

I presume the bores are not pitted, too thin, Damascus, &c.?

Interested to see what everyone proposes though.
 
I don't know anything about resleeving, beyond than the concept itself.... but isn't the chamber part of the sleeving process? i.e. why sleeve just the chamber - would the cost not be similar (or cheaper) than just doing the whole barrel?

or is it that a .410 sleeve does not exist?
 
I don't know anything about resleeving, beyond than the concept itself.... but isn't the chamber part of the sleeving process? i.e. why sleeve just the chamber - would the cost not be similar (or cheaper) than just doing the whole barrel?

or is it that a .410 sleeve does not exist?
Correct about the chamber being part of a barrel sleeve, however, that is with rifle cslibres/barrels. A shotgun barrel has no where near enough barrel wall to accommodate a sleeve unless you were reducing the bore diameter (like a briely insert).
 
Is this a DIY project, or are you paying someone to do it? You'll easily exceed the value of the guns in labour alone. If it's DIY, what's your skill level?

A lot depends on how much metal you have to play with around the chambers, and the condition of the bores.

If the bores are clean, you could reverse sleeve; ream out the existing chambers, silver solder a steel insert and rechamber that.

If the bores are toast along with the chambers, then sleeving the entire barrel would be the option, though it's ungodly expensive. The barrels are cut off just ahead of the chambers, leaving essentially a monoblock, and new tubes silver soldered in place.
 
I'm just trying to imagine the machining setup for this operation. I suppose if you had a milling vise attachment for a lathe you could do it. Or possibly if you had a milling machine that had a horizontal milling function...
Being as you are working near the end of the barrel it's not as though you would need a barrel wall thickness gauge or anything.
 
I've lined barrels; never just chambers.
I suppose that the chambers could be reamed out and liners installed. The OD of the liners would be determined by the OD of the barrels at the breech. The liner would be chambered; could be done prior to bonding in place. I'd make the liners from 4130 Cr-Mo tube.
Whether lining the chambers of two .410 doubles would make sense would depend to a great deal on the value of the guns. If cheap guns from the get go, DIY might be the only way to go. If a 'smith is being paid to do the job, the guns had best be valuable ones.
 
if any thing at all this is the correct fix
you ream the chambers with a 20 ga reamer then you buy 410 chamber inserts and red loctie them in the 20 ga chambers
also not as easy as it sounds as with most chambering you must remove as much metal as possible with a drill bit .
reamer 300-350$
410 inserts 100-125 $ ea
those are your basic costs
 
You've got nothing to lose by DIY polishing or honing the existing chambers to see if that solves the problem. Bear in mind the area that surrounds the metal case head is the critical area - the rest of the chamber can be in pretty rough shape and the cases can still extract.
How are the bores???
 
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