Muzzle Brake coming loose
- Thread starter TRGOD36
- Start date
If anything I would use a high pressure lubricant like Never-Seize and with the brake screwed on as far as possible tighten the jam nut against it... I don't think it was tight to start with or it would not have come loose... if you don't want to remove it easily when you do remove it, use blue Loctite.
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
What make of rifle? What style of MB? Got pics?
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I will try just re-tightening it and test it out. If that doesn't work I will try the loctite. Just wasn't sure if loctite should be used.
Thanks
How where the threads cut, by hand or on a lathe? Could be that the barrel threads are a wee bit undersized and perhaps the flash hider is not perfectly straight on the barrel? Does not take very many bullets striking a mis-aligned hider to shake it loose!!
Scott
Scott
Threads were cut on a lathe by a gunsmith. I checked the brake closely and could not find any evidence that it was hit by any bullets.
If it was a 3A thread like it's supposed to be,it should not be coming loose.
This is why you cut the last couple thou with a die.
Who's the hack that did the muzzle threading?
Locktight is the way to go now..
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Threads on the brake are (1/2 X 28 TPI).
Is there another product that will withstand the heat?
gunasauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Red loctite (loctite 262) will work fine. That barrel is not going to get hot enough to break it. Clean both the threads on the barrel and the threads on the MB with alcohol or something else to fully de-grease them, then apply a reasonable amount of 262. Let it set for 24 hrs before firing, and it should not come off again. To get it off afterwards, you should need to use a propane torch to heat it high enough to break the seal.....
Thanks for the information
Yes i know..
3A is the grade of fit.The thread would be a 1/2x28UNEF 3A
He may have cut it under that fit resulting in too much slop,which would make it a 2A fit.
And that is not acceptable for muzzle threads
Throw some good locktite on it and hope for the best
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Do you know for a fact the brake is class 3B? Did you buy a class 3A die, tell me which die manufacturer makes that class 3B 1/2 28 tpi die?
"Hack" thems fightin' words, you must be pretty sure the threads are poor.
I have no idea who the smith is but I pass no judgement until I KNOW what is wrong.
Yes i do know..
And i have adjustable dies that i set for the grade of fit i'm cutting.
The muzzle brake would have been drilled and tapped by cnc,so it's hard to go oversize when you're using a tap..
And i'll call anyone who does poor machine work a hack,someone cut the thread crap on my gun and i'd be pissed.
The 1" long threaded portion is a dead giveaway.
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Actually it looks to be longer than an inch. The threaded portion of the barrel is so long that it looks like it is protruding too far into the brake, probably making the brake less effective.
TRGOD36, does the top of your brake look like the AR brake with the angled ports? If not, when the brake is installed with the jam nut, is the crown flush with the first port? Do the threads look good and does the brake thread on without wiggle. Not fond of the jam nut myself, I'd rather lap/touch up the barrel shoulder to get the brake in time. As far as the adjustable die goes, they have their place but I find it just as easy to finish with the lathe.
