Sears mod. 6B ejection problems

Jeromey

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I have this Sears .22 that I am attempting to get to properly eject. It has a 'stovepipe' every 10 or so rounds, where the spent case does not clear the ejection port before the bolt in attempting to feed the next round. From what I have found, the Sears 6B was the same as the Cooey 64B, the 64B has the flat ejector and the matal mag. This rifle has the metal mag and the wire ejector. This leads me to believe that either someone put the wire ejector in once upon a time or the 6B is a model 64A, and this rifle has had the conversion for the metal mag. Does anyone have clarification on this, as well as any suggestions on the ejection issue. I have cleaned the firearm and gave the necessary parts a light coat of G96 oil. Thanks.
 
I have this Sears .22 that I am attempting to get to properly eject. It has a 'stovepipe' every 10 or so rounds, where the spent case does not clear the ejection port before the bolt in attempting to feed the next round. From what I have found, the Sears 6B was the same as the Cooey 64B, the 64B has the flat ejector and the matal mag. This rifle has the metal mag and the wire ejector. This leads me to believe that either someone put the wire ejector in once upon a time or the 6B is a model 64A, and this rifle has had the conversion for the metal mag. Does anyone have clarification on this, as well as any suggestions on the ejection issue. I have cleaned the firearm and gave the necessary parts a light coat of G96 oil. Thanks.

I have a 6c and it has the wire ejector.
No idea as long as you have fully cleaned the gun.
Did you pull the bolt and barrel?
 
What you have is an early Model 64. It has been converted to the metal mag from the plastic mag. the wire ejector is original, but you will have to pull the barrel by undoing the clip stud that holds the barrel clip onto the action. Be very careful pulling out the barrel as twisting it will damage the wire. From use it ( the wire) may have come out of shape also. the wires are available from a fellow here in Winnipeg if you wish to get a new one.

the action has to be removed from the rifle and cleaned thoroughly, I use a spray can of wd40 for this but brake cleaner will suffice also. Run a wire brush into the receiver to clean the tube and oil well on assembly. the gun should cycle better. A lot of the time too, you are looking at a well used action and are bound to get hangups etc. It will never be like new and a lot does depend on the ammo you use. Some will just not work well. try different brands til one works the best. I have several of these neat little guns . An original plastic mag Cooey Model 64, a Cooey metal mag 64A, Lakefield 64B and a Sears 8C ( 64C)...all can be fussy. Part of having an auto that is 40 years old. if you need more help...feel free to PM me. i will help as much as i can.
 
Yes, the barrel was removed from the action. It all came apart very nice. I have tried a few different types of ammo and they all have the same result. I am going to take it apart again and take a good look at the ejector. It very well may be plain worn out already. Thanks!
Winnipeg Toymaker- who is the fellow in Winnipeg who sells the ejectors? If I can't get one from our local gun shop I will contact him.
 
Contact Robert Harvich....1-204-255-8988. tell him i sent you. he makes many different parts for many different guns. the wire ejector cannot be swapped for the flat one. the groove that it fits in would have to be milled larger. the flat ejector is too thick.
 
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Got it ejecting with the original parts. I was playing with extractor tension and bending the ejectorfarther to the center of the action. Now that one problem is fixed, I discover that it suffers from misfires as well. The primer strikes appear to be very light. Am going make a sleeve put behind the 'hammer spring' or whatever it would be called to put a bit more tension on the spring. If that solves my problem I'll have to prder a new spring.
 
Got it ejecting with the original parts. I was playing with extractor tension and bending the ejectorfarther to the center of the action. Now that one problem is fixed, I discover that it suffers from misfires as well. The primer strikes appear to be very light. Am going make a sleeve put behind the 'hammer spring' or whatever it would be called to put a bit more tension on the spring. If that solves my problem I'll have to prder a new spring.
There should already be enough tension on the hammer spring.
Pull the striker out of the bolt and sharpen the face into more of a point,but not so much that it will pierce the case or rip it.

If you need more travel out of the striker you can file the back side of the hole in it where the bolt handle goes through,that acts as a stopper.
Also have a look at the back of the striker where it comes into contact with the hammer,if it's all bashed up just lay it on a vice and whack it with a hammer to flatten it back out.Then heat treat it to harden it up
 
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Yea, I've thought about sharpening it is well. I found an article that I remember reading in a Precision Shooting magazine a few years back in regards to rimfire firing pin designs. I'll see if this can help me out.
 
Firing pins for this gun are cheap too. I keep several in my little stock as well as the 2 kinds of ejectors. Robert makes them locally so I put new ones in usually when I pass one thru my "gathering"....I found that using more oil than usual, lets the action cycle easier, maybe with the wear from 40 years of shooting , needs a little "sealer" to keep up the compression pressure. With a little TLC these guns work ok even with the hiccups and are quite accurate .
 
Reshaped the firing pin, but that did not help. So, I made a 1/4" long spacer to beef up the mainspring a bit and it work great now. I guess it needs a new spring.
 
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