Cleaning .22s

nelly

nelly

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Howdy,

I pose this question, as yet again I have seen the urban legend that "nobody bothers to clean .22s", which I just don't get.

Of all my firearms, my semi-auto .22s tend to be the muckiest, with unburned powder and waxy residue all over the inside of the receivers after a couple of hundred rounds (Ruger 10/22, Ruger MkIII 22/45, and Marlin 70PSS). Combined with the relatively low power of the .22 cartridge, if a dirty gun is going to suffer reliability issues, it would (to me) seem to be MOST likely with a rimfire semi-auto.

So, where did this theory come from, that you don't need to clean a .22?

Anyone?

Cheers,

Neal
 
It's generally considered that pushing a sloppy cleaning rod, or pulling a dirty pull through down the bore of a 22 is going to cause more wear than actually shooting the thing.

The coating of bullet lubedown the bore is necessary for consistant groups. It does over time build up and a gentle cleaning is required. Certainly doesn't have to be taken down to the bare metal like we do to centre fires.

The receiver, bolt face always need cleaning and lubing to guarantee function.
 
I clean all of my firearms after each trip to the range prior to putting them away. Instead of using the usual bore brush and cleaning rod, I've switched to the spray on foam like Wipe Out, leaving the foam to work for about a half hour, then just pushing it through with a few patches for a clean and lubed bore.
 
Allstone said:
I clean all of my firearms after each trip to the range prior to putting them away. Instead of using the usual bore brush and cleaning rod, I've switched to the spray on foam like Wipe Out, leaving the foam to work for about a half hour, then just pushing it through with a few patches for a clean and lubed bore.
Click to expand...

where do you get wipeout from?
 
AMEN - but no rods down bores please

bisonhd said:
It's generally considered that pushing a sloppy cleaning rod, or pulling a dirty pull through down the bore of a 22 is going to cause more wear than actually shooting the thing.

The coating of bullet lubedown the bore is necessary for consistant groups. It does over time build up and a gentle cleaning is required. Certainly doesn't have to be taken down to the bare metal like we do to centre fires.

The receiver, bolt face always need cleaning and lubing to guarantee function.
Click to expand...

I have .22 rimfires that have not had the barrel cleaned in 30 years - still tack drivers. You must clean the accuracy destroying lead ring at the end of the chamber just before the lands and grooves constantly though.
Accuracy tests with .22 rail guns showed benefit only when a dry bore mop is carefully and gently moved through the bore. There is not enough heat generated to buld up lead.
Dont forget the bore seasons to the ammo like a cast iron fry pan.A change in ammo type can take between 20 to 300 rounds to recondition the bore to the new ammo for best accuracy
 
I use a bore snake, and patches (Receiver to the muzzle only).
Generally I use a foam cleaner, leave it and then use the bore snake. A second time I add a patch to the end of the snake and repeat. A dry patch is run a few times to make sure it's clean.

After that I "season" the barrel with G96 and let it sit until I go shooting. Run a bore snake through before shooting and the rifle is ready to go.

Since I use that G96 stuff I don't have to even bother scrubbing anything on the receiver. It just wipes off. I clean it off, use more G96, and let it sit. Later on I use Rem oil for the semi autos. The bolts seem to just prefer G96, but the looser tolerances of the semis seem to like the extra rem oil for the action.
 
.22 RF firearms don't really require much cleaning but I don't like to put my firearms away with combustion residue in the bore. So I usually run one patch slightly wetted with Hoppes followed by one dry patch through the bore before putting away.
 
I have heard that .22s don't need to be cleaned, but I couldn't bear to let them go to bed without a gentle clean with a wet patch followed by a couple dry ones.
 
Yeah, I dunno still.

I clean all my .22s with G96, and just leave a very light coat on the working parts, so as not to attract too much unburned powder, and will use usually about three wet patches followed by a dry one to clean out the goo in the bore.

It really does go against all of my cleanliness OCD to NOT clean...

Thanks for all the responses.

Neal
 
I clean the bolt and wipe the muzzle area, after every time out.

Do the bore after every 4-5 times out with a wet, then dry patch.
 
I clean the actions when they need it, and wipe the outsides off if they happened to get rained on, damp from cold/hot transition or good and dusty. G96 still kicks ass after all these years. Sometimes I'll pull a bore snake through if testing a different ammo but that's about it. If they shot better clean than dirty it might be different, but I've found the opposite to be true. Same with centerfires for that matter. Cleaning guns for nothing is a poor excuse for a hobby.:p
 
nelly said:
Yeah, I dunno still.

I clean all my .22s with G96, and just leave a very light coat on the working parts, so as not to attract too much unburned powder, and will use usually about three wet patches followed by a dry one to clean out the goo in the bore.

It really does go against all of my cleanliness OCD to NOT clean...

Thanks for all the responses.

Neal
Click to expand...

Which G96 product are u guys refering to? I went the website and find various products. Thanks
 
Brushes...bad

I remember the time I sent a copper brush down the barrel of my Anschutz match rifle, and my groups opened up. It went from a respectable grouping at 100 yds to a grouping you'd get with a 10/22. It didn't settle down until another 800 rds of crap ammo went through, and now it's back to normal. Now what I do is (if I have to clean it) is clean the action and extractor, as well as send down a Hoppes soaked mop down followed with a couple of dry patches. Good Luck.
 
When I clean the barrel on my CZ 452 with solvent and a jag, it took several shots for the bullets to re-centre. They were dropping low for the first two after cleaning. Must have increased the drag and lowered velocity by removing something (wax?).
 
mzcloud said:
Which G96 product are u guys refering to? I went the website and find various products. Thanks
Click to expand...

http://www.g96.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=g96&Category_Code=Gun+Treatment

You're looking for the "gun treatment". Now keep in mind it's not the perfect product for everything including cleaning the kitchen sink as advertised. I don't use it as a solvent. I use it as a metal conditioner. That being said I've found that most parts just require being wiped off afterwards so a solvent usually isn't even required.

I use it on my stainless S&W 5946 service pistol as well. Carbon wipes right off. Plus it still works at -50. :D. I also use Rem oil afterwards on the high friction parts. This combination works well for semi autos. For bolt rifles, the bolt seems to prefer just the G96 as a lubricant.
 
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Brushes bad

mmm...chicken said:
I remember the time I sent a copper brush down the barrel of my Anschutz match rifle, and my groups opened up. It went from a respectable grouping at 100 yds to a grouping you'd get with a 10/22. It didn't settle down until another 800 rds of crap ammo went through, and now it's back to normal. Now what I do is (if I have to clean it) is clean the action and extractor, as well as send down a Hoppes soaked mop down followed with a couple of dry patches. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

Your are absolutely right ! Same happened to me bout 30 years ago. Make sure it is a carbon fiber rod that you meticulously clean before raping the bore -
 
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