Double or single selective trigger?
- Thread starter Trigun
- Start date
When hunting, a double trigger allows for instant barrel (and therefore choke) selection. A double trigger is best mated with a straight grip stock.
On the clays field a single trigger offers a slightly faster second shot. Barrel selection is determined prior to shooting, instant selection is not required.
Sharptail
On the clays field a single trigger offers a slightly faster second shot. Barrel selection is determined prior to shooting, instant selection is not required.
Sharptail
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
"A double barrel gun should have two triggers". For some people a single selective trigger is a blasphemy.
I would also like to mention that a dual trigger setup is less complicated and there is much less likelyhood of breakdowns or double firing.
I would also like to mention that a dual trigger setup is less complicated and there is much less likelyhood of breakdowns or double firing.
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I agree, but the fact remains that in a match situation, two triggers will lose out to single selective when it comes to speed and smoothness.
There is no extra movement or positioning of the trigger finger.
In the field, there is more time to move, and like was stated, barrel selection can be decided on beforehand.
Cat
There is no extra movement or positioning of the trigger finger.
In the field, there is more time to move, and like was stated, barrel selection can be decided on beforehand.
Cat
I have both. A single trigger in a browning citori and a double trigger in an old stevens sxs.IMHO i prefer the single select trigger in all situations. For some reason i've always had troble switching triggers after the first shot. Maybe too much semi auto and pump gun shooting.The citori has both barrels choked to improved mod. so selection doesn't matter in a hunting situatin.
I think a lot depends on the location of the selector. I had a Franchi which used the tang mounted safety as a selector. Pushing it right or left as it came off safe selected the barrel. I did find that on occasion I would try to slide the safety straight forward and it would bind, providing no barrel and causing a considerable delay. Also this type of selector means one must go back to safe before selecting the other barrel.
On my Weatherby the selector is on the side of the trigger where many safeties are. When set to the right it fires the bottom barrel and all it takes is an instant to push the selector to the right to get top barrel first. Of course lending the gun to someone else requires a lesson in where the tang safety is and a caution that the trigger button is NOT a safety.
The Fausti Tradition I bought this spring uses a very strange location for the selector. It is mounted on the bottom of the forward part of the trigger. It seems like a placement that will be more difficult to use and may present the problem of firing the gun if one tries to switch barrels while mounting the gun or when it is mounted.
I really don't see it as a big problem as I very rarely make a change of barrels after a bird rises. I try to keep all concentration on the bird.
I consider it more important to have mechanical triggers and not the inertia type. When a misfire occurs on an inertia trigger gun one must either select the other barrel or take the gun from the shoulder and slam it back onto the shoulder to simulate recoil. With mechanically set triggers just slap the trigger again.
On my Weatherby the selector is on the side of the trigger where many safeties are. When set to the right it fires the bottom barrel and all it takes is an instant to push the selector to the right to get top barrel first. Of course lending the gun to someone else requires a lesson in where the tang safety is and a caution that the trigger button is NOT a safety.
The Fausti Tradition I bought this spring uses a very strange location for the selector. It is mounted on the bottom of the forward part of the trigger. It seems like a placement that will be more difficult to use and may present the problem of firing the gun if one tries to switch barrels while mounting the gun or when it is mounted.
I really don't see it as a big problem as I very rarely make a change of barrels after a bird rises. I try to keep all concentration on the bird.
I consider it more important to have mechanical triggers and not the inertia type. When a misfire occurs on an inertia trigger gun one must either select the other barrel or take the gun from the shoulder and slam it back onto the shoulder to simulate recoil. With mechanically set triggers just slap the trigger again.
Both triggers have their own merit.I like the looks of the double triggers and for myself they work just fine under most conditions.The only problem I have with double triggers is when hunting in the winter with heavy gloves or mittens.Under those conditions I like the single trigger better.
Well, the only reason I would consider suggesting a double trigger to someone is because of the lesser price and/or if he think it will take a beating in the field.
IMHO in clay shooting, double triggers are like pumpguns, they are fine until you decide to shoot them seriously. Go to a Olympic Style Skeet Range and you'll understand what I mean when you'll encounter the first double.
As for hunting, I don't see the practicality of choosing ON THE GO wich barrel(choke) to shoot first as the bird flies away. Even if you are fast enough to make the right decision, you would have shot this barrel anyway if you would have missed with the first...
The only time in hunting that I select the tighter choke first is when a grouse is perched or on the ground nearby and I want to save the breast with a clean headshot. For those occasions, I have plenty of time to select the second barrel so it doesn't matter if that's ankward or not to execute.
(I know, no sport in that but why spoil the meat? BTW, I prefer duck hunting...)
IMHO in clay shooting, double triggers are like pumpguns, they are fine until you decide to shoot them seriously. Go to a Olympic Style Skeet Range and you'll understand what I mean when you'll encounter the first double.
As for hunting, I don't see the practicality of choosing ON THE GO wich barrel(choke) to shoot first as the bird flies away. Even if you are fast enough to make the right decision, you would have shot this barrel anyway if you would have missed with the first...
The only time in hunting that I select the tighter choke first is when a grouse is perched or on the ground nearby and I want to save the breast with a clean headshot. For those occasions, I have plenty of time to select the second barrel so it doesn't matter if that's ankward or not to execute.
(I know, no sport in that but why spoil the meat? BTW, I prefer duck hunting...)
I agree with Sharptail - single selective for clay sports (with the possible exception of sporting clays which can be a lot like hunting) and double triggers in the field.
I've developed the habit of pulling the front trigger first for closer shots and the rear trigger first for longer presentations. With the longer shots, I like to use the tighter choke, since the more open choke comes with a greater chance of missing and because I won't likely get a second shot anyway.
I went out for a round of sporting clays a couple of weekends ago and chose to shoot SxS' on that occasion. There was one station where I missed the first shot (a long shot) 2 or 3 times in a row. The second shot was an incoming. I woke up at that point and switched to shooting the tighter choked left barrel first and the right barrel on the second bird. Never missed that first shot again after that.
I've developed the habit of pulling the front trigger first for closer shots and the rear trigger first for longer presentations. With the longer shots, I like to use the tighter choke, since the more open choke comes with a greater chance of missing and because I won't likely get a second shot anyway.
I went out for a round of sporting clays a couple of weekends ago and chose to shoot SxS' on that occasion. There was one station where I missed the first shot (a long shot) 2 or 3 times in a row. The second shot was an incoming. I woke up at that point and switched to shooting the tighter choked left barrel first and the right barrel on the second bird. Never missed that first shot again after that.
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BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
No offense, but it doesn't sound like you do much upland hunting. Ever had a bird get up 30 yards out with a gun shoked F/IC? If you have, you would be able to see the benefit of an instant choice of choke as you shoulder the gun.
Also, if you've ever had a misfire with an O/U gun with inertia triggers you would attest to the superiority of the DT setup. Click then Boom is better than click and then nothing.
In an O/U for clays you'd be fine with a SST, but if you are walking open country where the bird could get up under your feet or 30 yards out, versatility is the name of the game, which is why a DT gun is superior.
No offense taken. My opinion is based only my experience in my type of hunting and must be considered as one of the many different opinions that our fellow CGN can listen to before making is choice. However I think you could understand better my previous post if I add some precisions.
Where I live in PQ there is no such things as upland hunting and grooses(perdrix) are shot in wooden areas as you could have guest when I said that I've shot birds that were "perched". I never said that I hunt in a upland situation and neither our fellow CGN did.
As you know, he can easily found a SST with mechanical triggers O/U like I have if he wishes. So I don't think reliability is a factor here for choosing DT over SST.
Also, having the better trigger system of the two for clay shooting is important to me because I think that enjoying clay shooting is the best way to become a efficient hunter and what better way to enjoy shooting than to perform well and with the exact gun you'll use hunting...
I don't want to deny any of your statements. I just want to precise my own statements so you could understand more the origin of my opinion.
I think we all made the same mistake by not asking our fellow CGN what he intended to do with the shotgun in the first place.
TRIGUN :
- Do you want to shoot clays regularly?
- What do you plan to hunt?
- In wich type of terrain do you plan to hunt?
If you plan on doing mostly upland hunting, I think Big Ugly Man is your guy to ask to.
Good luck
Thanks for all you guys reply, I want to buy a O/U that is okay to do both, I have shot several single trigger and a double trigger, For trap is easier to have the single selective but I like the double trigger look. Just want ot make sure it still okay for both trap and bird hunt
Thanks
Trigun
Trigun, as you may have read in other threads, almost any shotgun can be used in a wide variety of applications. A double trigger U/O will certainly be acceptable for both hunting and clay sports.
It will be a bit of a handicap for fast games like ATA Trap, Continental, or International Trap. It's likely to be somewhat neutral for skeet and probably an asset for 5-stand or sporting clays. All of this being totally subjective relative to the individual shooter.
Barring some catastrophic reversal of fortune that sees the antis hipnotizing the public consciousness and perpetrating another level of counterproductive feel good legislation, you should be able to buy such a gun and shoot it until you decide what you like for yourself (keep in mind during this process the importance of fit - if you can't shoot it the cause can just as easily be the LOP, drop, etc., as it could be the barrel regulation or the trigger system). You should then be able to sell and get your money back, if you paid a fair price in the first place.
My point being, this isn't a marriage. Come to think of it, marriages aren't even marriages these days - but I digress. You can buy guns and turn around and sell them later. I know this sounds like a stretch now because, when you invest the time and energy we all do when searching for the perfect gun, selling it is the furthest thing on our minds. I've read the posts over the years from people who had this or that and sold it and regretted it ever since. That is certainly a risk, but so long as you don't make impulsive selling decisions, I don't think anyone need lose any sleep over it.
Be adventurous, if she strikes your fancy, make her an offer. If it doesn't work out, you can go your separate ways.
It will be a bit of a handicap for fast games like ATA Trap, Continental, or International Trap. It's likely to be somewhat neutral for skeet and probably an asset for 5-stand or sporting clays. All of this being totally subjective relative to the individual shooter.
Barring some catastrophic reversal of fortune that sees the antis hipnotizing the public consciousness and perpetrating another level of counterproductive feel good legislation, you should be able to buy such a gun and shoot it until you decide what you like for yourself (keep in mind during this process the importance of fit - if you can't shoot it the cause can just as easily be the LOP, drop, etc., as it could be the barrel regulation or the trigger system). You should then be able to sell and get your money back, if you paid a fair price in the first place.
My point being, this isn't a marriage. Come to think of it, marriages aren't even marriages these days - but I digress. You can buy guns and turn around and sell them later. I know this sounds like a stretch now because, when you invest the time and energy we all do when searching for the perfect gun, selling it is the furthest thing on our minds. I've read the posts over the years from people who had this or that and sold it and regretted it ever since. That is certainly a risk, but so long as you don't make impulsive selling decisions, I don't think anyone need lose any sleep over it.
Be adventurous, if she strikes your fancy, make her an offer. If it doesn't work out, you can go your separate ways.
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