Para- 1911 problems (again!)

Mayer

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:runaway:Ok I thought I fixed these FTF problems, last time I used winchest JHP's there was zero FTF. I went to the range with some CCI 230gr FMJs and every bullet just nose dived into the top of the chamber and did a FTF and most of the time set the bullet back into the case.

I tried somemore research before asking here. I looked on gunshopfinder.com/articles/1911magazinepart2.html and now its starting to sound like a magazine problem?

Simply put, it means the point at which the feed lips turn loose of the base of the cartridge and allow it to slip under the extractor. This step occurs just after the extractor begins to take control of the round, as the cartridge begins to climb the feed ramp. The angle on the ramp causes the round to move nose up, and forces the rim to engage the very bottom of the extractor claw...or hook, as it's often referred to. This serves two purposes. It works to keep the rim in contact with the breechface, so that the round is always under control, and it helps to "pull" the round farther into the contrrol of the extractor as the slide pushes forward.

This paragraph from the site seems to explain my situation well, the round gets jammed up in a nosedive WHILE its under the extractor, its not grabbing the rim of the case yet. NO FTE just FTF.

Photos of my 1911, its a Para lower and a series 70 upper.
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Total noob reply here, but have you tried a different mag? Or maybe its the upper and lower that are grr with each other? Just a thought and im sure youve already thought about.

I just re-read yur post again.......if you had zero FTF with the Winchest JHP's.....why would you use the CCI 230gr FMJ's?
 
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Total noob reply here, but have you tried a different mag? Or maybe its the upper and lower that are grr with each other? Just a thought and im sure youve already thought about.

I haven't tried new mags yet actually , I'm not 100% sure which brand and where I should buy em from!

EDIT: Because they cost over 40$ a box and I also like to shoot FMJ rounds as well, it also does the same with other FMJ brands, American eagle, etc. I'd just like a functional pistol that I can shoot different types of ammunition in.
 
Some mag suggestions, for me, would be MecGar and Shooting Star. MecGar magazines can be bought through Marstar and the McCormick Shooting Stars through Armco. Para's customer service sucks in my experience but my Para 1911 has never failed to feed or eject. Hope it works out!
 
I haven't tried new mags yet actually , I'm not 100% sure which brand and where I should buy em from!

EDIT: Because they cost over 40$ a box and I also like to shoot FMJ rounds as well, it also does the same with other FMJ brands, American eagle, etc. I'd just like a functional pistol that I can shoot different types of ammunition in.

Gotcha on the cost. I was thinking about that after I posted my reply. $40/box....ouch:eek:
 
First off, the 1911 mindshare is found mostly at http://forums.1911forum.com/

But you got a double-stack .45 Frankengun that is not strictly a 1911, and looks like it may have had a questionalble past. The list of things that could be off is very long.

If you knew the gun and mags hadn't been Buba'd, and the slide, barrel, and frame were actually fit by a competent gunsmith, the next up, and without being able to handle the gun, would be extractor tension.

Take the slide off, remove the barrel, firing pin stop, firing pin, and extractor. Clean up the extractor and take a Q-Tip and cleaner to the extractor channel in the slide. Put the extractor and FP stop back in to hold the extractor in place (you might have to hold the FP stop from falling out). Leave the firing pin out. Now, with the slide right side up, slide a round up under the extractor, not quite up to where you see the circular wear mark on the breachface.

The extractor should hold the round pressed against the opposite side enough that you can jiggle the slide a bit without the round falling, but a little pressure (guestimate 3 lbs to be in the ballpark) with your index finger should release the round.

If you need to reduce the extractor tension, be mindful that they aren't that cheap and can snap if not done carefully. You are essentially bending the thing along the gentlest curve possible. There's a way that involves a vise with the plastic/padded handles of a pair of pliers pushing one way (each end), and a single padded plier handle pushing the other way (the middle). Think about it. Most vises come with a warning not to do this sort of thing.

Sweeney, who's a gun rag writer but figures he can write gunsmithing books, suggests putting the extractor ass backwards part way back into the slide, and bending the extractor tip end against some surface. Gunner at Armco (see sponsors above) will sell you a replacement extractor should you break yours.

Messing with the either the ramp on the frame or the barrel ramp will earn you the Bubba award. If they haven't already been messed with, they are not the problem. If they have been messed with, and they are the problem, then the gun won't be worth fixing.

That's a start anyway.
 
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