Help me get my 22lr to 200 yards. ,,,,,,Success!!!

Clobbersauras

Clobbersauras

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Waaay out west.
I posted this in Precision Rifle because you guy know the most about long range shooting (200 is a stretch for the 22lr).

Here's my rig:
BRNO #4 Heavy 27 inch Target barrel :dancingbanana:(bedded)
CZ Rings
Bushnell Elite 3200 5-15x Tactical Mil Dot
BRNO4002.jpg

BRNO4005.jpg


Ammo: Lapua Super Club Solid Standard Velocity.

The Target: 8 inch frying pan:D


I downloaded all the variables into the ballistics program and came up with this chart (this is a small piece of the chart) based on a 25 yard zero (1/4clicks and mils)..
(yds) (1/4) (mils)
0 *** ***
20 -4.2 -0.3
40 1.1 0.1
60 -6.8 -0.5
80 -18.5 -1.3
100 -32.0 -2.2
120 -46.9 -3.3
140 -62.7 -4.4
160 -79.4 -5.5
180 -96.8 -6.7
200 -115.1 -8.0

My question: I tested how many clicks of elevation I have with the scope as it was set at the factory and have about 80 clicks available...so based on the chart above, if I come up 79 clicks then use 2.5 mils on the reticle (scope set at 15x) I should be close at 200 yards correct?

P.S. Go easy on me - I'm new at this "long range" stuff...:redface:
 
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Your best bet is to simply aim at the berm and work up the elevation. Get a 100yd zero then aim about 3ft above the target at 200yds and see what happens.

Should take you only a few shots to get on target if you can see the dust fly.

I used to shoot my Ruger HG at 200yds at rocks for S&G's. NO big deal.

Jerry
 
mysticplayer said:
Your best bet is to simply aim at the berm and work up the elevation. Get a 100yd zero then aim about 3ft above the target at 200yds and see what happens.

Should take you only a few shots to get on target if you can see the dust fly.

I used to shoot my Ruger HG at 200yds at rocks for S&G's. NO big deal.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Hi Jerry -I would do it that way but the trouble is that our berm is actually covered with tires and brush and I can't see the rounds kick up anything, so I don't know where I'm hitting. I'm hoping the program I used is correct. I was able to find the BC of the Lapua ammo and entered in the scope height from the bore, temp, muzzle velocity, etc...

What I need to know is: Given that the data generated is correct (we'll see I guess), are my thoughts about coming up 79 clicks then using 2.5 mils the right way to do it?

I've never used this method to dial in range before (I usually just hold over) - and I want to know if it's correct.

Cheers!
 
kombayotch said:
People greatly underestimate the .22LR.

Check this thread out:
[url]http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=503007#Post503007[/URL]
Click to expand...


That thread was my inspiration for this test (Turkey test to follow:D)....

But this is where I get a little lost in trying to figure out how much I should come up....He wrote:


"The test was done at the maximum distance of 300 yards because honestly, I thought that penetration would probably not occur at that distance and because, above 300 yards, using my elevation knob and even mildots was pretty much useless.

A 400 yards shot is basically an 80 MOAs drop. Even shooting at 300 yards requires me to place my elevation for 200 yards (27.5 MOAs) and use 6.6 MILS (actually already off the mildots reticle so there is somewhat of a guess)."

He's using a Bushnell Elite 3200 10x - which should have the same elevation adjustment as my scope. How is he able to place his elevation at 200 if I can get there with the elevation I have available? Unless to get on at 25 yards I have to dial down the elevation knob significantly...as I wrote in my 1st post, my estimation of 80 1/4 clicks of elevation adjustment was done by me cranking up the elevation knob from the factory setting and counting until it stopped...if I had to dial it way down to hit at 25 yards...I might have enough elevation to get to 200 yards???? I'm a little lost here....
 
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If you shoot at 100 yards with the elevation maxed out, that should give you a pretty good idea of what your maximum range using the cross hair would be based on how high your POI is above your aiming point. From there using the mil-dots to hold off will give you an additional 17.5 minutes of elevation (3.5 MOA per mil X 5 mils). At 300 yards that is more than 4' of additional elevation. Time to take a brick of ammo to the range and start shooting, you'll answer your own questions.

I ran the numbers through a ballistics program (40 gr bullet @ 1000 fps, sight 2.5" above the bore) and with a 100 yard zero your drop would be 21 minutes @ 200, 45 minutes @ 300, and 74 minutes @ 400.
 
This is where "balistic plex" and other scopes with elevation hold overs, pay for themselves. Even though 200 yards for a .22 is off the hold over marks, there are enough markers for you to repeat the 200 yard shots once you know where it's shooting.

My target 10/22 hits 200 yard gongs reliably using a Burris Ballistic plex. The mark in my case is right near where the crosshair gets thicker. I recommend using gongs for initial sight in, simply because on a dry day you can see if you hit or miss by the dust. If you see dust then you missed.

If your scope has the elevation settings then you can actually dial it in. Which is even better. Yup check the ballistic tables for the rough amount that you'll have to dial in. Again I'd recommend doing initial sight in with a metal gong.

Good luck.
 
Boomer said:
If you shoot at 100 yards with the elevation maxed out, that should give you a pretty good idea of what your maximum range using the cross hair would be based on how high your POI is above your aiming point. From there using the mil-dots to hold off will give you an additional 17.5 minutes of elevation (3.5 MOA per mil X 5 mils). At 300 yards that is more than 4' of additional elevation. Time to take a brick of ammo to the range and start shooting, you'll answer your own questions.

I ran the numbers through a ballistics program (40 gr bullet @ 1000 fps, sight 2.5" above the bore) and with a 100 yard zero your drop would be 21 minutes @ 200, 45 minutes @ 300, and 74 minutes @ 400.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply- the actual data I plugged into the calculator was:

1050 fps
40g
BC: 0.114
scope 1.875 above bore

Would my original calculation work as well?
 
Forget the match ammo for shooting the .22LR at that distance. Its too slow. I use the "hypervelocity" stuff. It might not shoot smaller groups at 50 yards, but it sure will at 200 or 300.
 
You can try that setting. It is as good a place to start as any. 22 LR is ballistically challenged, even the temperature will make a significant difference in point of impact. What I would suggest is try it out. But bring a large box or staple a large garbage bag to your target stand. This will let you see where the bullets are impacting and you can adjust accordingly. Personally I have my 22 zeroed for 200 and use the mildots for targets at 50 100 and 300 yards.
 
I just stapled a 4 foot sheet of cardboard at 200 yards with a 2" white sticky on the top and used my known 100 metre setting. With no wind it was amazing to watch those bullets drop into a nice little 2" group, a sniff of a breeze and a whole different story.
 
I got to the 200 yard zero by the 2'x4' cardboard backer method. After hearing of shooter's doing 2" groups at 200 I had to give this a try. Well I am doing something very wrong!!! The groups were in the 6"+ range. WALTHER KKJ BURRIS 36 x (30mm) tube 1/8 moa.adjustments. Shot off front and rear rest's with a bit of switching wind to help me out. ELEY match ammo. First I gave it a try at 100. Here I had good results with several sub moa. groups and several in the 1.5" area. I was amazed at being able to watch the bullet through the scope on it's way to the target and how it travels getting there. I believe a ammo change is in order for me past 100. At 200 some of the bullets were not passing through the 1/2" backer board. Even found one wich had bounced off backer board and was lodged between target paper and the backer board. Anyway's on to 300 meters targets which I ran out of elevation adjustment before I got there.
I think I am hooked now on shooting the rimfire at 100 and beyond now, but will not try again until I can obtain some wid flags.
 
muzzle flash said:
After hearing of shooter's doing 2" groups at 200 I had to give this a try. Well I am doing something very wrong!!! The groups were in the 6"+ range.
Click to expand...

Have shot 2" groups, but they were the exception when everthing was working perfect. 4-6" is pretty normal but any wind and forget it. My rifle with Eley EPS will shoot .7" consistantly at 100 yards. It's a Lilja barrel chambered specifically for that bullet.
 
muzzle flash said:
I got to the 200 yard zero by the 2'x4' cardboard backer method. After hearing of shooter's doing 2" groups at 200 I had to give this a try. Well I am doing something very wrong!!! The groups were in the 6"+ range. WALTHER KKJ BURRIS 36 x (30mm) tube 1/8 moa.adjustments. Shot off front and rear rest's with a bit of switching wind to help me out. ELEY match ammo. First I gave it a try at 100. Here I had good results with several sub moa. groups and several in the 1.5" area. I was amazed at being able to watch the bullet through the scope on it's way to the target and how it travels getting there. I believe a ammo change is in order for me past 100. At 200 some of the bullets were not passing through the 1/2" backer board. Even found one wich had bounced off backer board and was lodged between target paper and the backer board. Anyway's on to 300 meters targets which I ran out of elevation adjustment before I got there.
I think I am hooked now on shooting the rimfire at 100 and beyond now, but will not try again until I can obtain some wid flags.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing - I'm looking forward to this. I think there is enough interest in "long range" 22lr that someone could put together a match...similar to the sniper style matches out there. From what I've read it's an inexpensive way to practice for large bore long range.
 
bisonhd said:
Have shot 2" groups, but they were the exception when everthing was working perfect. 4-6" is pretty normal but any wind and forget it. My rifle with Eley EPS will shoot .7" consistantly at 100 yards. It's a Lilja barrel chambered specifically for that bullet.
Click to expand...

How long is the barrel and what action are you using? Sounds like a nice set up.
 
I used to have a very similar set up (Brno Mod4 6-24 B&L Elite) I found 200m was easy with the red and white box Federal High Velocity - I know this is old stuff but if you can find it buy it. That ammo is the only match spec high velocity ammo I've ever found. ( I mic'd the rims, the OD, the OAL - even the runout) the consistency is amazing and the extra FPS make adjustments much easier.
 
Clobbersauras said:
How long is the barrel and what action are you using? Sounds like a nice set up.
Click to expand...

It's actually my silhouette rig so the barrels a little longer than it needs to be. For my preference on weight balance it is a 25" Sundberg taper pounded into a Sako Finnfire action. The scope was a Weaver T36. Other than a bit of a tuning the rifle is stock.

I believe a shorter barrel would be easier to shoot for a BR gun.
 
ian_in_vic said:
I used to have a very similar set up (Brno Mod4 6-24 B&L Elite) I found 200m was easy with the red and white box Federal High Velocity - I know this is old stuff but if you can find it buy it. That ammo is the only match spec high velocity ammo I've ever found. ( I mic'd the rims, the OD, the OAL - even the runout) the consistency is amazing and the extra FPS make adjustments much easier.
Click to expand...

Aren't the #4's great? :D I got this one from my dad and it has been in our family since the early 90's. He bought it when I used to shoot prone small bore but we couldn't find another mag for it so I stuck with the Anschutz. The BRNO gave up nothing to the Anschutz in terms of accuracy though. I still have the peep sights. I plan to get a bipod for the rig and try it shooting prone once I know where it's grouping.
 
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