Applying Behr Tung Oil to stained stock Q's

[VooDooMan]

Ok guys..........

So I ripped off that s**ty shellac finish off my SVT40- Raised the dents with damp rag and iron and gently touched up some areas with 220 then 320 and 600, Just enough for some of the non square areas to become square again and what not,

I cleaned her up real well, removed all the oils and what not, LOTS OF WORK.
Stained her down with red mahogany, Which didn't turn out very red LOL.
Infact it turned out darker then I hoped, But looks good never the less.
OI applied wood conditioner by minwax and that helped a ton.
stian by minwax too ( oil based plain stuff )

So now the Tung oil.........
Any way..........I fallowed the directions to the T.
Apply thick coat and let sit for 15 then wipe off excess and buff, Then 60 minutes later do the same, THEN wait for 24 hours and continue.

I am now waiting on the 24 hours and was wondering do you guys sand between coats of this stuff?
Its Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil ( petroleum distillates and Linseed OIl )

Or do I simply just wipe on a new thick coat let sit for 15 and wipe of and buff?
I would like it a shiny as possible.........

Also I apply the oil with a brush then wipe clean and buff with a rag, The next 10-15 coats I plan should I do the same or actually soak a rag and rub the oil INTO the wood ?

Thank you every one!

 

[steve1973]

I've refinished several RC K98 stocks with Behr's and I have done the 'every 24 hours' thing like you mentioned. I didn't sand between coats until before the very last application of oil. If the oil is applied right, you shouldn't have to sand and I would think it would be counterproductive to building up the oil by sanding. I could be wrong though. I would do the same type of application every time, the oil will absorb into the stock, it shouldn't need to be really vigourously rubbed in.

I think for very dry stocks, you will need like 3 or 4 applications before you really see the oil finish. I think the stocks I did, I did 6 or 7 applications before I was happy with it. Here is my shooter K98 with a walnut stock with a tung oil finish:

 

[louthepou]

You can use NO. 0000 steel wool, very gently, between coats. But as Steve says (nice job by the way!), if the coats are indeed really thin, I wouldn't do it between every coat. Make sure each coat is very thin, it'll dry quicker and look nicer. Have fun (and post pics )

Lou

 

[Dantforth]

I think the steel wool should be used every time before applying a new coat. It removes any imperfections even as small as they should be...or any dust, hair etc. that gets on there before it dries. You will get a much smoother look in the end. I just pour a bit into the palm of my hand and then rub it on. For very...very glossy finishes apply the last coat very thinly and leave on to dry to a high luster. For what it's worth, Dave

 

[skirsons]

You bubba'd an SVT-40. Congrats. Good thing only the finish is ruined!

But I think a flashlight and some bedliner are in order.

 

[louthepou]

shellac finish off my SVT40-

DOH!

I should read the posts more carefully. Good thing Skirson knows how to read better than me.

Shellac was used on many Russian rifles, I believe, but that's not my specialty. So I think shellac should go on yours. There are some good brands that can stand some abuse. But that's just my opinion... and it's not my rifle!

Lou

 

[Claven2]

I wasn't going to comment, but I can't stand it any longer. Behr Tung Oil is for cabinets and coffee tables. It has no place on a milsurp - not EVER.

The proper finish on an SVT40 is shellac.

 

[VooDooMan]

awesome job steve, and thanks for the replies guys.

In the end its my rifle, and its far better to have a good looking and durable finish on this svt then worry about touching the stock with my nails and scratching and denting it accidentally.

To some the finish is ruined to some its reborn, Its all how you look at it, If its bought not as a collector then it shouldn't matter to the person who bought it or the person he will buy it down the road - This is a more practical application.

Yea I was reading that it takes about 6-10 coats, I am going for my second soon enough.

Thanks every one

 

[skirsons]

I have a 1905 military Ross. I was thinking of chopping down the stock, tossing out those ugly metal bits, and throwing a scope on, adding a sweet recoil buffer and painting the stock black... I think it will be far better to have a good looking hunting rifle than the ugly original. I am doing a service to the next bloke who will buy this rifle.

There are different degrees of bubba-ing, but that doesn't make the small degrees good.

 

[desporterizer]

While I don't like the look of a oiled svt, its not terminal & will probably lower the value when it comes up on the EE. Then a fellow like me will buy it at a reduced price, coat it in garnet shellac & all is well. Most times you can't see stained wood under shellac, unless its something stupid like ebony.