1911 Magazine seating issues... *pictures up*

scotty

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So I sent my Colt Gold Cup Trophy off to Gunnar to have a EdBrown beavertail installed because I was not digging the Colt "duck-tail" that comes with it. A few e-mails and a phone call or two and everything was sorted out.

I got the gun back and everything looks great. The beavertail felt a bit more stiff than before to push in and the trigger had a different feel to it but I went with the 1911 mechanics excuse. Anyways... I have not shot the gun or put a full or empty magazine in the gun before today. All I did was dry fire and test the safetys to make sure they worked.

Today I was doing some reloading and I whipped up a batch of 200Gr CMJ's without primers or powder to test feeding as I was having some FTF before.

I could not get the magazine into the gun. I tried loosening and then removing the grip screws thinking they were to tight and were hitting something but to no avail. Upon further inspection I found that something around the MSH on the inside was hitting the magazine on its journey "up"

What part is this? I don't remember this being out before? It can only pivot up or down about 2-4MM so I don't think it moves out of the way... Am I correct in assuming it is a part that needs to be tucked away inside the gun but was left out during re-assembly?

I guess Gunnar did not test fire the gun and only checked to see if it worked from dry firing it.

Pictures to follow as soon as my phone will upload.

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Thats what I am thought also but have only had Series 70's before so I was not sure. Pictures up in 5 minutes.
 
I assume it just needs to be tucked back under the top part so its all flush behind the mag channel.

Any tips, instructions or guides to do this?
 
I assume it just needs to be tucked back under the top part so its all flush behind the mag channel.

Any tips, instructions or guides to do this?

Take the slide off.

Pop the mainspring pin and slide it down 1/2 inch

Raise the safety lever all the way up, then gently pull sideways, being careful not to launch the detent and spring into orbit.

Lower the mainspring housing and lift the beavertail and leaf spring out.

Push the hammer pin out, and pull out hammer and strut, and top lever.

Push the sear pin out, and pull out the sear, disconnector, and bottom lever.

Drink a 6 pack and try and visualize how they go back in.

Hint, use a pin fron the off side to hold the levers in position while you slide the sear and disconnector back as one unit.
 
Thanks, as soon as I figgure out how that pin fits back in properly perhaps I'll give it a whirl tonight.
 
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Is the botton grey part my part? If so, it would seem that is has been placed on backwards in with with the "tips of the V point out into the magwell as opposed to backwards in...

Am I correct?

"Disasemble the frame parts, and look carefully at the lower one...It looks a little like a boomerang with a hole. One end is shorter than the other. For reference sake, I call it The Bird's Head...because that's what it looks like to me. This one will be the tedious part of reasembly. The other one is a cakewalk.

The proper orientation for the bird's head is with the long leg pointing downward, the short leg pointing rearward at an angle. The bird's "eye" goes toward the front of the pistol. The long leg bears against the trigger stirrup.

To reassemble this part, it will be necessary to get the sear/disconnector pin through the sear, disconnector and the "bird's eye". The best way to do it is with a slave pin...enter the M-16 firing pin again.

Install the trigger bar lever...the bird's head..first, and slip the end of the firing pin through it. Push it against the inside of the frame, and slip the pin out far enough to keep it in place, but not far enough to let the lever fall. With the sear and disconnector properly oriented...(you did have them together...right?) carefully slip the sear/disconnector sub-assembly into place. Align them by nudging the trigger to the rear and moving the disconnector paddle until the firing pin will slide through all three parts. Turn the frame upright and test by shaking it. If nothing falls out, roll the frame back onto the side...left side up...and use the sear pin to chase the slave pin out. Re-test. If nothing falls out, you're done."

???
 
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Is the botton grey part my part? If so, it would seem that is has been placed on backwards in with with the "tips of the V point out into the magwell as opposed to backwards in...

Am I correct?
???

Yup, you are correct. The cross pin sizes are different, so you can't switch them.

It's a ghey safety, and many simply buy the frame spacer and remove the levers from the frame and the plunger from the slide.
 
I see. I am a little pissed off that I was sent an improperly assembled gun after some work was done. I'll see how Gunnar handles this 2moro when I get in touch with him and we will see what can be done.

Depending on what happens with that, I'll either take it apart and try and fix it or send it back to him and maybe get a magwell.
 
I see. I am a little pissed off that I was sent an improperly assembled gun after some work was done. I'll see how Gunnar handles this 2moro when I get in touch with him and we will see what can be done.

Depending on what happens with that, I'll either take it apart and try and fix it or send it back to him and maybe get a magwell.

To be fair, I can't count the number of times I've heard of knowledgeable people doing this. Most often, while detail cleaning prior to a big match, only discovering it at LAMR:redface:
 
Gunnar got back to me via e-mail today and has offered for me to send the frame back to him on his dime. Great service as I expected.

Problem solved!
 
I see. I am a little pissed off that I was sent an improperly assembled gun after some work was done. I'll see how Gunnar handles this 2moro when I get in touch with him and we will see what can be done.

Depending on what happens with that, I'll either take it apart and try and fix it or send it back to him and maybe get a magwell.

This can happen so easy with these things it's just stupid, and it's very easy to overlook. I HATE buggering around with series 80 parts, because if you don't have fingers like a three year old it's always going to be a pain in the butt putting them together. And if you have to do it ten or twelve times while you are fitting a trigger up it can absolutely drive you to drink. Just a useless piece of liability insurance that gets in the way of a better trigger pull; they were designed only to appease politicians and lawyers. If you don't plan to drop your investment on a concrete floor from a hight of 6 feet so that it lands squarely on the muzzle when loaded, I really wouldn't have it in the gun at all. If I were you, I would ask Gunnar to drop a spacer plate in there and be done with it. Or buy one and do it yourself.
 
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