The Ten-Foot Rifle is Done

BigUglyMan

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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New Scotland
I decided to call it a "Ten Foot" rifle because it's a good looking rig, but not without it's flaws. It looks as good as any from ten feet away!

It started life as a Husqvuarna M98 in 9.3x62. It also came with a side-mounted scope which I promptly removed. I wanted an iron-sight moose rifle.

I set to gathering the parts to make the rifle into what I wanted. I bought the stock and trigger from Brownells to replace the original Birch stock and two-stage trigger the rifle came with. The stock is the "unfinished" M98 stock from Wood Plus and the trigger is the Bold PR-98 trigger from Boyd's.

We inletted the stock for the action and new trigger and placed a 1/4" nickel steel pin through the wrist of the stock and as a forward cross bolt. We then filled the cross-bolt holes with some African Blackwood. The grip cap was also made of the same African Blackwood as the plugs for the cross-bolt holes. It was then finished with the "Lemon Meringue Stock" finish recipe from the 1991 Gun Digest. This is the second rifle that we have finished this way and it looks pretty good. Not a bad piece of wood for the $60 they charge for it! We added a Pachmeyr recoil pad as well. I liked the look of the orange pads so went with one for this rifle. It's quite soft and handles the recoil well. I also put a 1/2" spacer between the pad and the stock to give me a little more LOP as I'm a hair taller than average.

The action was epoxy bedded into the stock, which took much more work than we had initially thought. The trigger guard was contoured and sculpted to take away the boxy look of the factory metal. The floorplate was also breathed on a bit and smoothed out. All the metal was polished on the buffer (and I didn't ruin any of the edges or markings, which goes to show that you shouldn't be afraid of using the power buffer to strip and polish a rifle). I had wanted to rust blue the rifle but I chickened out and used cold blue. The results were good, giving it a used appearance, but there's nothing that touches a good rust-blue job.

The front sight was missing from the rifle so I ordered a NECG Masterpiece banded front sight. At this point my vacation was over so the installation of the front sight was left to my father. The rear sight that came with the rifle was too low for the front sight so we decided that my dad would make a sight. He is retired and now hobbies as a custom knifemaker so he had the know-how to make what I needed. After a couple of attempts he came up with a design that I think will work well. It's still in the white as once I get a load that I like I will finish filing it down and cold blue it.

So without further fanfare here are a few photos. It's turned in a few groups in the 1.5 inch range at 100 yards and if it keeps it up I'll be thrilled to bits with it. It's no John Rigby Best Mauser, but it was a fun project for me and my 70 year-old father and shows you what you can do when you pick up an old rifle and decide that you're going to make it into what you want.
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Very nice looking rifle in an intersting caliber. Sort of an European 35 Whelen?

I have a heavy snow, foggy day, heavy rain rifle for moose, too. Has a bright red front sight and a big rear peep.
 
I like the figure in the wood for sure. The finish you put on looks perfect to compliment the grain and natural color of the wood. Nicely done.
 
Nice job, BUM! I agree about the red recoil pad- it definitely looks "right." NEGC also does a nice-looking one. Might that be going with you on your next trip to Africa?

I have a 9.3x57 Husky that is languishing in the cabinet until I get some time to do more work on it. Mine still has the orig. fixed rear sight so I'm going to put an NEGC adjustable front sight on it to give me a little latitude.



:) Stuart
 
Very nice outfit BUM! You dad did a great job with the sight. Looking forward to hearing how it does in the field.

Also, would like to hear more about the "Lemon Meringue Stock" finish. :cool:

Ted
 
HEY B.U.M., pretty off the wall when a guy has to think SOUTH for mooses, almost want to dare you to try building something like a "476-7/8 Walrus Stopper"!

The destination ain't near as important as looking out the windows and enjoying the journey through life!
Keep having fun and you will likely live a enviable life!
 
The Lemon Meringue Stock, Gun Digest 55th edition, 2001 (seriously abridged by yours truly!)

Once you finish polishing the wood with ascending grades of paper (up to 400 but you can go farther if you like) you "liberally coat" the stock with lemon juice. The author describes this as the juice of one lemon brushed into the stock until it is absorbed.

Then you apply clear surgical alcohol to the stock with a cotton ball. This hardens the albumin in the wood. Now you separate an egg-white into a bowl and rub the white into the stock with your hands. Once it is dry you rub the stock down to bare wood with 400 grit paper. Now you apply more alcohol to the stock. Once it's dry you rub more egg white into the stock and rub it down with 400 grit once dry. Keep repeating this process until the pores are filled.

Now polish the stock with 400, then 600, then 800, then 100 grit paper. Once finished polish again with used 1000 grit paper (of course, all sanding is to be done using a rubber backing pad to prevent finger marks). The wood will be almost reflective when you are finished. Now more on to linseed oil.

Use pure linseed oil and rub it into the stock in the thinnest coats possible. Rub the oil in and let the stock dry over night. Then repeat it five or six times. The stock is done when it stops absorbing oil.

Then move on to automotive rubbing compound in the finest grit you can get. Get the plain stuff, not the compound that is mixed with wax. Apply it to t the stock in a thin layer, let dry and polish it off with chamois leather. Then apply a commercial beeswax polish (or make your own by shredding pure beeswax and adding a few spoonfuls of turpentine which melts the wax and makes a paste). Spread the paste on the stock (thin coat) and let it dry for an hour or so. Then polish it with chamois.
 
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