I want to un-bubba my 303

TAZWILLFIX

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I have a 1918 lee enfield 303 that I would like to un-bubba and am looking for some help. The barrel is 31" long from the tip to the back by the saftey catch. Printed on the barrel is the word ESSEX. As you can see there are lots of stamps on the barrel and on the metal strap back by the trigger. The sling clasp at the back is offset but the front one is not. It always shot straight for me and even got a mule deer some years back. I am interested in putting it back to original for looks and a fun project. Unfortunatley the s/n on the barrel 697xx does not match the bolt s/n 294xxJ. Can anyone tell me about the rifle and what would be involved and an approximate cost. Thanks for your help

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm185/tazwillfix/303004.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm185/tazwillfix/303003.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm185/tazwillfix/303002.jpg
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm185/tazwillfix/303001-1.jpg
 
Hi Taz,

If the barrel wasn't shortened (which appears ok on your pics), it's a fun project to undertake.

Parts are available from a few sources. Most of the time, you'll have lots of cleaning and fine tuning to do to these parts.

I suggest doing a search on this section of the forum, there are quite a few previous posts about such a project. Post any question that remain un-answered... Welcome to the world of un-Bubba-fication!

Lou
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj180/louthepou/HPIM0957.jpg
 
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Not generally known, the barrels on these were supposed to be free-floated except up at the muzzle reinforce and another bedding point back where the Magpie Screw holds things together.

It's amazing what you can do with a LITTLE bit of Acra-Glas and a non-shooting Smellie. With a decent bore, it's not uncommon to get an inch off the sandbags (with good ammo, mind you) and I have seen half an inch on a couple of rifles. I have a completely-original NRF 1918 that does an inch and I haven't touched the thing myself.

They will get their best accuracy with ammo that produces about 10% under milspec velocity.

Lotsa fun.

Welcome to the club!
 
Not generally known, the barrels on these were supposed to be free-floated except up at the muzzle reinforce and another bedding point back where the Magpie Screw holds things together.

That's pretty much it smellie, but for the No4. I'll add this to refine the instructions for the No1 Mk3:
"In correct military fitting, the barrel should be supported by the forend, except from about half-an-inch to the rear of the inner band recess to the front of the knox from which itself should only be supported by an inch-wide strip at the bottom. The most important part when refitting the fore-end is to equalize the pressure on the copper recoil blocks" (or on brass shims if there are no recoil blocks) (from "Accurizing and Shooting Lee-Enfields", Brian Labudda and Ian Skennerton)

Well all that to say, in a language I can understand, that the No1 Mk3 barrel is a bit more supported than the Mk4.

Lou
 
If I may suggest, go to www.skennerton.com and order S.A.I.S No1
It will give you several exploded parts diagrams and a potted history.
If you are ordering parts, you want to get everything at one go, since that ONE screw you missed in the order is STILL going to cost you "shipping and Handling.
while there are several places in the frozen north that have parts, www.ssporters.com has a good reputation as well.

By the way the reason the fropnt sling swivel is not offset is because its NOT an enfield part.;)
 
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