Filling no4 mk1 tapped holes
- Thread starter Jericho
- Start date
Welding won't allow you to blue the spots. Regular 'plug' screws will do it nicely. You'll still have the screw slots, but no holes. $8.73US will buy you a dozen blued plug screws from Brownell's. However, if you know what thread the holes are(most likely 8-40), ask your local gun shop. They'll likely give 'em to you.
There was a thread here about a '49 Long Branch having scope mounting holes repaired. Screws were inserted, and the areas TIG welded. The repairs were dressed, and the receiver refinished. It was a very successful restoration. This was done at Gunco in Nepean.
It also required a first class welder.
Rebluing would require that the correct filler be used.
Rather than use slotted filler screws, the offending holes can be chamfered slightly, and long screws installed firmly. These are cut off proud, then riveted down, filling the chamfer. The area is carefully dressed flush, and the finish touched up. Properly done, the dots may show, but are not too obtrusive.
While 8-40 screws are used on some scope installations, the overwhelming majority of scope bases use 6-48.
It also required a first class welder.
Rebluing would require that the correct filler be used.
Rather than use slotted filler screws, the offending holes can be chamfered slightly, and long screws installed firmly. These are cut off proud, then riveted down, filling the chamfer. The area is carefully dressed flush, and the finish touched up. Properly done, the dots may show, but are not too obtrusive.
While 8-40 screws are used on some scope installations, the overwhelming majority of scope bases use 6-48.
gunrunner100
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- NW Ontario
Tiriaq is correct if the base used was a Weaver TO-1. I have used the long 6-48 method and peened the metal of the screw down after cutting and filing. If done slow and pro, it looks good once touched up with bluing.
Yes, it is important to use a rod that will take the finish. If uncertain, experimentation would be a good idea, before welding.
The welder has to be really good. There is potential for a disaster. The '49 LB I mentionned turned out really well.
The welder has to be really good. There is potential for a disaster. The '49 LB I mentionned turned out really well.
I don't know about wise, but I am old....
If the rifle were special, I would use the welding repair. If it is a run of the mill rifle, I would be inclined to plug, rivet and touchup.
Keep in mind that with the welding, the receiver must be refinished; this adds another dimension to the job, particularly if the rifle is to appear to be unrestored.
Also, as far as value is concerned, the rifle will always be a restoration.
If the rifle were special, I would use the welding repair. If it is a run of the mill rifle, I would be inclined to plug, rivet and touchup.
Keep in mind that with the welding, the receiver must be refinished; this adds another dimension to the job, particularly if the rifle is to appear to be unrestored.
Also, as far as value is concerned, the rifle will always be a restoration.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Whether or not Tiriaq really knows what he is talking about is irrelevant. He has that comforting Wallace-Brimley kind of charm about him. Maybe it is the whiskers and suspenders look of a wise old uncle's thoughtfullness. He has that warm-bowl-of-oatmeal in the morning kind of reassuring way of speaking. I've known the man for easily 25yrs and have always enjoyed his company. As for Enfields and simple gunsmithing, he has never given me bad advice.
gunrunner100
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- NW Ontario
It's not lost ####, I have 1/2 of it here. Send me your addy and I'll gladly send it back.
I really do not want it back, kind as your offers are. As of last Thursday, my weight has dropped 23 kilos since May 20th. I have been highly motivated.
Back to plugging holes - if welding is not involved, here is how I do it:
Countersink the hole slightly. Screw in a longer than necessary screw, firmly, cut it off proud of the surface. It is even better if the portion left to rivet is not threaded. I will grind the screw flat leaving enough metal to rivet down nicely. Use the polished round end of a small ballpein hammer, and working around and around, rivet the screw into the chamfer. There must be enough metal to leave a slight hump. With a fine file, dress the rivet to contour. With fine abrasive, polish it, and just a bit of the surrounding base metal. Touch up the finish. You might need to experiment to blend the repair. The steel in the screw is important, if the alloy is very different from the receiver, the dot will show a different colour. You might want to experiment before doing the job. Might be worth making the screw, if necessary. Done carefully, a faint circle will show on careful examination.
An expertly done welded repair will be invisible, but more refinishing will be necessary.
By all means, practice on scrap metal a few times, before trying the repair on a rifle.
Back to plugging holes - if welding is not involved, here is how I do it:
Countersink the hole slightly. Screw in a longer than necessary screw, firmly, cut it off proud of the surface. It is even better if the portion left to rivet is not threaded. I will grind the screw flat leaving enough metal to rivet down nicely. Use the polished round end of a small ballpein hammer, and working around and around, rivet the screw into the chamfer. There must be enough metal to leave a slight hump. With a fine file, dress the rivet to contour. With fine abrasive, polish it, and just a bit of the surrounding base metal. Touch up the finish. You might need to experiment to blend the repair. The steel in the screw is important, if the alloy is very different from the receiver, the dot will show a different colour. You might want to experiment before doing the job. Might be worth making the screw, if necessary. Done carefully, a faint circle will show on careful examination.
An expertly done welded repair will be invisible, but more refinishing will be necessary.
By all means, practice on scrap metal a few times, before trying the repair on a rifle.
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
It should also be possible to gas weld a hole and get a good bluing job.
Not many skilled gas welders out there anymore though, except possibly a few gunsmiths, and specialty shops, like jewelers.
Tiriaq, I wish I could lose that much. Damn that must feel good.
Not many skilled gas welders out there anymore though, except possibly a few gunsmiths, and specialty shops, like jewelers.
Tiriaq, I wish I could lose that much. Damn that must feel good.
I really do feel great. Do about 50 minutes of exercise before breakfast every morning, and eat a healthy diet.
Something to consider when welding on a receiver - the heat really needs to be localized. A Lee Enfield receiver is selectively heat treated in specific limited areas, like the locking and camming regions. Light welding on the receiver ring and charger guide isn't going to do any harm. Mauser receivers tend to be casehardened, on the other hand. No receiver should be thoroughtly cooked; warping and scale are undesireable.
Something to consider when welding on a receiver - the heat really needs to be localized. A Lee Enfield receiver is selectively heat treated in specific limited areas, like the locking and camming regions. Light welding on the receiver ring and charger guide isn't going to do any harm. Mauser receivers tend to be casehardened, on the other hand. No receiver should be thoroughtly cooked; warping and scale are undesireable.
