The SKS and Corrosive Ammo.

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Just got a sweet deal on an early milled Chicom SKS. The DPO (D____ Previous Owner) must have found a batch of extra corrosive ammo because the gas cylinder was rusted tight in the gas tube. Penetrating oil, a block of hardwood and a 2 lb hammer popped it out. The gas tube will polish out very nicely. The chrome bore is excellent but there is a light pattina of rust over the barrel. The rust was burnt off the front of the gas piston so he must have used it like a bolt action the last time he (or she) was shooting it.

Too bad some guys don't know how to clean with water or a water based cleaner after using corrosive ammo.

D.P.O. also must have mounted the cheap (and unreliable) tunnel scope mount on this gun as the receiver cover retaining pin has been replaced with a very ugly screw.
In all, once it is cleaned up and dropped into a synthetic stock ( some in the rifles past history abused the original stock ) it will make a very nice shooter.
 
Just got a sweet deal on an early milled Chicom SKS. The DPO (D____ Previous Owner) must have found a batch of extra corrosive ammo because the gas cylinder was rusted tight in the gas tube. Penetrating oil, a block of hardwood and a 2 lb hammer popped it out. The gas tube will polish out very nicely. The chrome bore is excellent but there is a light pattina of rust over the barrel. The rust was burnt off the front of the gas piston so he must have used it like a bolt action the last time he (or she) was shooting it.

Too bad some guys don't know how to clean with water or a water based cleaner after using corrosive ammo.

D.P.O. also must have mounted the cheap (and unreliable) tunnel scope mount on this gun as the receiver cover retaining pin has been replaced with a very ugly screw.
In all, once it is cleaned up and dropped into a synthetic stock ( some in the rifles past history abused the original stock ) it will make a very nice shooter.


I like using Windex or anything that will dissolve the salts. The hot water thing doesn't seem as good to me. You are just trying to get rid of the salt vapours that came out of the primer when firing the ammo. A good job can be done with hot water but I'd rather trust something that will clean out the salts like Windex and then clean/lube as normal.
 
windex

I like using Windex or anything that will dissolve the salts. The hot water thing doesn't seem as good to me. You are just trying to get rid of the salt vapours that came out of the primer when firing the ammo. A good job can be done with hot water but I'd rather trust something that will clean out the salts like Windex and then clean/lube as normal.
Bought a bottle of Windex, what do you do, wash the whole gun with it, put it on bore swab and scrub, rinse off with hot water afterwards, dry, then puton oil? Thanks.I have a new Polish carbine I'd like to shoot and don't want to mess up with improper cleaning.!
 
Well I have had my sks for over 20 yrs . fired tons of corrosive ammo through it & never used water or windex . after shooting I just clean it like any other rifle . Hoppes 9 & a good oiling barrel/action/gas tube . Never had any sign of corrosion.
 
Bought a bottle of Windex, what do you do, wash the whole gun with it, put it on bore swab and scrub, rinse off with hot water afterwards, dry, then puton oil? Thanks.I have a new Polish carbine I'd like to shoot and don't want to mess up with improper cleaning.!

I think if you ask 10 guys/gals, you'd get 10 different opinions. I've turned more to the boiling water method. Give it a quick scrub with windex, and then pour boiling water down the bore, in the gas tube, etc.

The boiling water heats the metal so well that it will flash dry. A few passes with Hoppes#9, followed by oil, and good to go.
 
Well I have had my sks for over 20 yrs . fired tons of corrosive ammo through it & never used water or windex . after shooting I just clean it like any other rifle . Hoppes 9 & a good oiling barrel/action/gas tube . Never had any sign of corrosion.

I have heard many other people say this and I would think if you do a great job cleaning/lubing that would be enough. Can't bring myself to try it. LOL
 
Bought a bottle of Windex, what do you do, wash the whole gun with it, put it on bore swab and scrub, rinse off with hot water afterwards, dry, then puton oil? Thanks.I have a new Polish carbine I'd like to shoot and don't want to mess up with improper cleaning.!


I would clean the barrel, receiver, bolt, gas system with it, then regular cleaning/lubing. But as you can see from other posters, you will hear different things from many different people. I believe people when they say that a really good "regular" clean/lube job is all that is needed after using corrosive ammo. So if you trust your regular method it should be fine in my opinion.
 
I won't argue with anyone about their cleaning method. All I can say is, clean it like your other rifles, and in about 2 weeks, pop off the gas cylinder tube. Now look into the end where the tube sits, where the port in the barrel is. Is there rust now??:runaway:
 
I have a new Polish carbine I'd like to shoot and don't want to mess up with improper cleaning.!

when you say polish carbine , you mean polish SKS ? you know poland never made SKS , its probably russian SKS45 .

just the same not to screw it up.
 
heavy duty cleaning....

well last year my SKS's spent the summer in invernation due to range closures, work, B.S. etc... so this spring I was all excited to take my factory 26 SKS and SKS-D out to the range - and I was HORRIFIED to see rust! only in the gas tube though... the SKS wasnt so bad, but my D model was a horror show - the gas tube piston would not budge at all... so I soaked it and pried it apart... now what to do?
Well.... got the brass wire brush for my 410 and put it on my drill - guess what it fits nicely and cleaned the crud out in no time. Inspected it - cleaned and softly oiled and put it away. Next day took it our - cleaned off oil and left it dry - NO RUST! moved slick - then looked in the barrel - no pitting, but some crud in the grooves - got the .270 brush and put it on the drill - cleaned her out great - no barrel damage (brass being softer than chromed steel) and she got out shooting to the range - shot better than I remember - getting about 5 rounds out of 20 in the 1 inch circle at 25 yards with open sights.
This year I cleaned them both out THOROUGHLY before putting them away for the winter!
 
well last year my SKS's spent the summer in invernation due to range closures, work, B.S. etc... so this spring I was all excited to take my factory 26 SKS and SKS-D out to the range - and I was HORRIFIED to see rust! only in the gas tube though... the SKS wasnt so bad, but my D model was a horror show - the gas tube piston would not budge at all... so I soaked it and pried it apart... now what to do?
Well.... got the brass wire brush for my 410 and put it on my drill - guess what it fits nicely and cleaned the crud out in no time. Inspected it - cleaned and softly oiled and put it away. Next day took it our - cleaned off oil and left it dry - NO RUST! moved slick - then looked in the barrel - no pitting, but some crud in the grooves - got the .270 brush and put it on the drill - cleaned her out great - no barrel damage (brass being softer than chromed steel) and she got out shooting to the range - shot better than I remember - getting about 5 rounds out of 20 in the 1 inch circle at 25 yards with open sights.
This year I cleaned them both out THOROUGHLY before putting them away for the winter!

ahah!!!

Taking care of rust is an interesting matter, one that I have some experience with.
Rust being Fe203 (Iron III oxide) reacts nicely with Aluminum. -- take a rusting gas tube and moisten some fine aluminum powder you can get at a plastics supply store. rub the moistened aluminium powder inside the gas tube with a cleaning patch. Fe2O3 -- Al ---> Fe --->Al2O3
There will be a rather instant reaction between the rust and the Aluminum and you will notice some slight heating.

I have polished a few guns this way. It works rather well.
 
on my m44 all i use is 3-4 passes with hoppes 9, 1 dry pass, 2-3 bore brushes, then about 15 or so oiled passes then a dry pass,
no rust yet,
when my sks arrives i'll use the same method, but i'll use boiling water or windex for the gas system
matt
 
Rust being Fe203 (Iron III oxide) reacts nicely with Aluminum. -- take a rusting gas tube and moisten some fine aluminum powder you can get at a plastics supply store. rub the moistened aluminium powder inside the gas tube with a cleaning patch. Fe2O3 -- Al ---> Fe --->Al2O3
There will be a rather instant reaction between the rust and the Aluminum and you will notice some slight heating.

the moisten aluminum powder will get rid of the rust permanently?

like what plastcis supply store?
 
I always remove the bolt and disassemble and clean it as well. If I don't, the firing pin rusts in place and puts the gun into a slamfire situation. Always ensure that the pin is free before firing, even if you clean it well after each use.
 
devalued

All this corrosive ammo in my opinion has devalued used 7.62 guns now on the market. Lots of people don't clean them properly, and still think they are gonna get top dollar for them LOL.
 
Having a couple of SKS, clean as you may clean, but I would strongly recommend cleaning the gas tube and rod every 2k rounds. Rust indeed grows on the inside and could potentially be a "pressure" issue if neglected.

I, too, follow the hot-water treatment before cleaning with a bore cleaner and then lube job.
 
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