Reloading Questions for Dummies

NorthernPF

NorthernPF

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Hey Everyone,

It has been brought up to me several times that realoding is alot cheaper and your shots can be alot more accurate with handloads. Now here is my question to all you reloading guru's.

If I were to start reloading, what would be a good set up to start with but that would also be good when I get more experienced?

What other accesories that don't normally come in a kit would I need?

Also, I've been looking through WSS and Cabela's catalog and want to know how do you know what powder brand and type to buy, which primers to buy, bullets, cases...?

Sorry if this sounds a little stupid but it's all very over whelming to me :runaway:.If any of this sounds a little outta whack, let me know and I'll try to clarify what my thought process is.

Right now I have a Remington Model 700 XCR 300 Win Mag that I would like to start loading for and I've always wanted a 45ACP but I was told that it's very expensive to shoot unless you reload. So eventually I'd like to buy a Kimber 1911 and shoot .45 without having to worry about ammo price as much.

Thanks for all the help.

Eric
 
Hey Eric

I'm far from a guru but I just bought everything to start reloading for .300win mag and .22-250.....there is alot to learn so my first piece of advice is to pick up a bunch of reloading manual's and learn as much as you can before you even start.

I went with a ($129)Lee Challenger breech lock kit with this kit you get everything to reload the basics that is......you get a powder measure a decent scale and a press that has an auto feeding primer press attachment, deburing tools...ect...cool thing about the breechlock is you install and adjust your dies in the breech lock fittings then when you want to reload another caliber you simply pull the breech lock fitting with your die in it out and plop a new one in yes you have to purchase extra breech lock fittings for each set of dies you have but it makes switching calibers a breeze.

I also purchased a set of ($40)Lee .300wm dies and a used set of .22-250 for $25......

Things to add: brass cleaner if your using fired brass, Case brush that fits in the case, primer pocket brush, flash hole deburer, case length gauge(digital calipers from CT work great!), a good loading manual, powder, primers and bullets.....you can add a tumbler for nice and shiny brass but its not a huge deal.

hope this helps I'm sure a reloading guru will chime in with some more helpfull info!

Also wanted to point out I felt very overwhelmed when I was just rounding everything up and trust me the nerves will be gone once you start loading......
 
ive only been into it for a year, but i started with a lee challanger kit. now im going to a lee turret press. The challanger kits are nice, everything you need for one caliber (except, primers, brass, powder and bullets)

best advice, have someone walk you through your first batch so you know whats going on and can ask questions.
 
srt4u2nv said:
Hey Eric

I'm far from a guru but I just bought everything to start reloading for .300win mag and .22-250.....there is alot to learn so my first piece of advice is to pick up a bunch of reloading manual's and learn as much as you can before you even start.

I went with a ($129)Lee Challenger breech lock kit with this kit you get everything to reload the basics that is......you get a powder measure a decent scale and a press that has an auto feeding primer press attachment, deburing tools...ect...cool thing about the breechlock is you install and adjust your dies in the breech lock fittings then when you want to reload another caliber you simply pull the breech lock fitting with your die in it out and plop a new one in yes you have to purchase extra breech lock fittings for each set of dies you have but it makes switching calibers a breeze.

I also purchased a set of ($40)Lee .300wm dies and a used set of .22-250 for $25......

Things to add: brass cleaner if your using fired brass, Case brush that fits in the case, primer pocket brush, flash hole deburer, case length gauge(digital calipers from CT work great!), a good loading manual, powder, primers and bullets.....you can add a tumbler for nice and shiny brass but its not a huge deal.

hope this helps I'm sure a reloading guru will chime in with some more helpfull info!

Also wanted to point out I felt very overwhelmed when I was just rounding everything up and trust me the nerves will be gone once you start loading......
Click to expand...

Will a reloading manual tell me what all these things are and how to use them?

Also did you find your 300 WM cartridges to be more accurate than factory stuff?
 
NorthernPF said:
Will a reloading manual tell me what all these things are and how to use them?

Also did you find your 300 WM cartridges to be more accurate than factory stuff?
Click to expand...


Reloading manuals teach you how to reload procedures ie. FIRST: inspect your brass for these things... Second: measure and trim brass to X specification, then clean it THIRD: clean out primer pocket, etc, etc.
There are also load formulas in the manuals, but I've found all I really need is the link to the Hodgedon reloading web site, because it's updated fairly often for new bullet sizes and gives you lots of options for power/bullet combinations and the loads are very good and perfectly safe to use. I'm pretty sure there's a link on the reloading section (sticky?).

Bottom line with reloading, you just need to jump in and get your feet wet after doing some reading or ideally finding a mentor to walk you through it a couple of times, then you'll be flying!

I also use the Lee anniversary kit with the breech lock option, which works perfectly fine. If you want to spend 3 times the money for one that is better quality, but works no better then I would go for the rockchucker setup from RCBS.

No question reloaded ammo can be more accurate once you find a pet load for your rifle. If you do things wrong it will most definitely be less accurate. Consistency of your case size, bullet depth and powder charge is what gives you accuracy.

If you're near Calgary I would be willing to spend some time with you to get you started.
 
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I have found you dont need to get into triming unless you have fired your brass 4-5 time sometimes more.....good brass= less triming....you should always measure just to be safe.......

As for your question about my .300wm loads I am doing that today I got some RL22 and hopefully they have some Ramshot magnum in stock and I have a box of 168gr Nosler Ballistic tips this will be my white tail load.....I also will be loading 165gr Barnes TSX's for Moose hopefully the POI isnt too much off.

Again only been doing this for a few weeks now
 
Besides Lee, RCBS offers a "starter" kit. Its an alternative for you to consider. As offered above, do your reading first. Besides keeping you safer, it'll save you $$.

Edit: Oh, and you're gonna need a chrony.
 
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Into reloading

Northern

Lets get things straight right from the beginning, IT IS NOT CHEAPER TO RELOAD.
You will still shoot till your broke..... you,ll just shoot more and later on say, well i'm saving money by reloading I should buy more guns, then it starts all over in a different caliber.

Once you get into shooting to the point where you have to reload, face it, your gonna be broke for a while but at least you,ll be having fun.

I started reloading when i was a kid with my father, back when reloading shot guns meant putting in cardboard wads and using high brass imperial shells.(yeah i'm getting old) , I quit shooting for a while and got back into the shooting/reloading about 7 yrs ago now.
I load for about 15 different calibers/gauges from smallest to largest.
Alot of the newer shooters I meet come by to see what's involved with reloading and i've found that you can throw alot of reading their way but the one source that most of them understand first is the Lyman's reloading book. Other books are good and you really should have a few sources for info. plus the internet but the lymans seems to be the easiest to grasp for people new to reloading.

Don't buy equipment you,ll out grow in 6 months.
I'm not a fan of most of these kits. They're cheap for a reason, usually your getting your moneys worth and not spending alot of money if you get what I mean.
If your to reload only rifle then you,ll want a different press than if your gonna load only pistol. If you plan to load everything then the press will be ok at everything but not great at any one thing specifically.
I started with a cheap progressive kit (lee) and with in 3 months had to replace the powder measure/dispenser and the scale, this left me with a progressive press that was a pain in the butt untill I took out the stick that makes it progressive. I now turn it by hand and i'm much happier for it.

I found that the Lee prog. press I have will not make accurate enough ammo for my 6PPC or my 6 BR. (actually the ammo for the 6 BR won't even chamber properly)
I bought a new Rock chucker supreme (RCBS) $180. It's fantastic
I still use the Lee for Pistol loading the main objective here is cycling well and hitting paper at distances of 20 ish yards.
I bought a Lyman 500 scale (balance) years ago and used it but found the new electronic ones to be SO much easier and faster.
I now have the Lyman 1200 dispenser/scale, it's around $299, was $500 +
I also have an RCBS powder thrower that threads into a press, it works well it's accurate and quick for rifle loading for my less than precision calibers,
all my PPC and BR loads are done on the 1200.

You,ll need a tumbler and some tumbling media to clean up your brass. I've been using the green corn cob, I found the red leaves a redish stain on the brass.
Probably gonna want a small hand tool for cleaning out primer pockets, one for large primers , one for small. I think Lee probably has them as individual tools. Use what ever your local gun/reloading store has available that is cheap.
This goes for powder too stick to powder that's cheap and easy for you to get right now. Your not gonna set any world record accuracy levels right now so use what's affordable and learn the techniques.

Some people will argue this but choosing specific powder brands can be a sort of Ford Chevy thing, brand loyalty and all that.
I use alot of Hodgdons but also experiment with everything . I don't care who's name is on it if my rifle likes it. Use what works, ask around what other people are using that shows results, don't ask the guy that has a rifle target that looks like he's testing a shotgun, laff.

Work slow and develop good, safe, habits. No t.v. while loading, no radio, you don't want ANY distractions till you get some experience.

If you buy a single stage press, a simple little thing like having dies with allen head set screw in the lock rings makes a big difference when it comes time to remove and replace the dies for another caliber. If the rings are not lockable in place then the WILL move and throw off your settings, which means set up all over again. The RCBS dies are similar in price to the lee (i have both) but they are lockable.
With my Lee dies I have them set up and locked inplace in a shell holder. The dies don't leave the shell holder, i remove the shell holder with the powder measure attached to each one and just drop in the new shell plate for the next caliber. This saves time and grief (alot of it) and it cost me maybe an extra $75-80 per caliber.

Keep a good sized area for your reloading, you,ll need a solid bench that doesn't move, bolt it to the wall AND floor if you have to.
Area to store powders, bullets, primers, LOADING INFO. , collect all the reading material you can get on this.
THE MOST USEFULL TOOL you can get is the LEE Auto prime, this is a hand primer. It costs about $23 , does small and large primers and is indispensible.
i've probably put 25,000 rds. through this one , i'm due for a new one.

I personally use 5 different presses,
Lee 4 station turret (non progressive now) for Pistol/Revolver
RCBS Rockchucker supreme , for Rifle
RCBS Ammo master , for 50 BMG (it's huge)
2 Mec presses for shotgun (need another)

Thats enough for now, I've proably not mentioned alot but my brain only lasts so long now adays and i need coffee and a smoke.
There will be a different way of doing things for every shooter, people will do what works best for them and what's easiest, you just need to find out what works for you.
My way is not the only way, its just my way. I'm safe , efficient and accurate, that makes me happy.
I get great satisfaction out of the knowledge that when I place well or win a match that not only did I shoot well and my rifle work like I had planned but also it was my ammo , hard work on the bench and attention to detail that made it possible.

Most Accuracy matches are not won on the range but on the reloading bench.

Mike
Barrie Ontario.
:)
 
Ice-Pick...very good summary, with a lot of info that will make it easier for newbies to get to a safe/fun/efficient stage of reloading.
I resisted getting into reloading when I started shooting....Nah...I'll never need or want to do it....Jumped in when I found my ammo bill was $$$, and never looked back.
In the end, you don't save money...but, reloading gives you two things:
1) you can shoot greater volumes for less money....this only comes after a lot of rounds down range to cover the cost of the initial, and ongoing, costs associated with reloading.
2) you are able to 'optimize' loads for a particular firearm...bullet (type/weight), case, powder (type/amount), and OAL (over all length)

I now find reloading to be a big part of my shooting enjoyment....I have purchase firearms because I happened to have a set of dies for the calibre!
I have just bought a Remington 700 SPS Tactical in .223Rem, and am looking forward to finding out what it likes to be 'fed'!

So, NorthernPF, jump in ...get your feet wet...all of the little details will start to make more sense once you get a little more experience.
Welcome to the club!
 
NorthernPF said:
If I were to start reloading, what would be a good set up to start with but that would also be good when I get more experienced?

What other accesories that don't normally come in a kit would I need?

Eric
Click to expand...

I'm at exactly the same stage as you are, Eric. I have a Remington 700 VS .308 to reload. Once I sat down and worked out the numbers, I figured that reloading becomes cheaper than ready-made around 600 rounds or so (assuming 1.50 per ready-made, and including all the gear/supplies needed to get going). My brother does his own loading, so for a start, here's what I ended up getting from Higgonsons Powders...:

Item Price Quantity Total

Lee Anniversary Set $128.00 1 $128.00
Case Length Gauge $5.00 1 $5.00
Universal Shellholder $4.00 1 $4.00
Deluxe Rifle Die set. $50.00 1 $50.00
RCBS Case Lube Pad $10.00 1 $10.00
$0.00
$0.00
$0.00
Hornady A-max 155 grain $34.12 1 $34.12
Varget Powder $26.00 1 $26.00
CCI BR-2 Lg. Rifle $37.00 1 $37.00
$0.00
Subtotal $294.12
Tax $38.24
Total $332.36

Prices are approximate. There are still a few things to get, such as a set of calipers to measure the cartridge length. Apparently Canadian Tire has those for $14.

I got my setup this week, as I was worried about the effect of currency fluctuations on the equipment. Right now, the Lee equipment is the same price in Canadian $ as it is in US $. I don't think that's going to last....

Fluke
 
Hey NorthernPF,

I must admit I'm not saving money by reloading. That's mainly because I don't buy in bulk.

There is factory ammo available as cheap as the one I load (counting only the consumables). But what I load is on par with the expensive factory cartridges.

I use the Lee anniversary single stage kit. It works great.
Modern Reloading by Richard Lee may not be as good a read as Lyman is but it's enough for me.

For example, the 30-06 recipe I'm using now often gives me sub MOA accuracy (1" or less groups at 100m). The cheap Federal Powershock seldom does. More like 3-4 MOA groups.

If you can afford to buy bulk, reloading may become cost efficient too.
I once bought 500 9mm bullets for about $60. That's big savings compared to $30 for just 100 brand name bullets.
Yet for my hunting rifles I'm only using brand name bullets. Accuracy beats volume here.

One thing nobody seems to factor in the time spent re-loading. Say 3 hours for 50 rounds? That's $60 or more!
Also, there's some expense incurred by the load development. Even the highly efficient Ladder method requires at least one trip to the range, 2 hours and 20 rounds.

If someone does factor in all direct and indirect expenses, reloading is NOT saving any money. But then again, nobody really needs to ride motorcycles, hunt or target shoot. We do it for fun, and fun has it's price.
 
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i bought most of my reloading gear from here in the EE forms.do you know anyone that reloads if so ask if you could join them and see what they do.or like in our case we set up a newbie reloading party and people from here came to a prearranged place with their gear and showed us how to setup and make rounds.we also got to meet some fine people that we would never of met
 
When you buy dies,buy match dies so you can adjust the seating depth more easily and when working up loads you can move the bullet in or out more accurately.They are more money but worth it. my 2cents.
 
Hey everyone,

I was reading regs in regards to reloading but I wasn't able to find a definitive answer so I came here.

Am I legally allowed to reload if I live in an appartment building? I read changes that they want to make about only doing it in a seperate dwelling but I'm not sure if that went through.

Also my dad was saying that I can't reload in an appartment because there is not sufficient ventilation. Any Thoughts on this?

Thanks again
Eric
 
im in the same position right now id like to start reloading .300 win mag so im thinking about buying the hornady lock and load kit seems to come with almost everyhting you need including a load book.


can pistol and rifle calibers be loaded with the same press....?
 
NorthernPF, ventilation isn't really an issue with reloading. It's not like any of the components release noxious vapours, unlike gun cleaning products, which should only be used with sufficient ventilation.

.Ben, yes they can.
 
I'm going to depart from the rest here since you asked about quality equip. that would be good "down the road"....Most "kits' don't have the critical stuff that i would recommend ie: good press like a Rockchucker, good electronic scale(most come with balance beam=slow), good powder measure, case trimmer, dial caliper. If the "kit" doesn't have that as a minimum, buy it all separately, but go for quality. The .45 Acp does not have to be expensive to reload, find good cast bullets that shoot well, they should only cost .08 cents each, a few cents for powder and primers and you're good to go. For the .45 make sure you opt for carbide dies, you'll be glad you did.
 
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