Who needs a gunsmith? - Nork 1911 trigger job

michaelsabre

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Few people realizes 1911 trigger is actually adjustable. When I say "adjustable", I mean you can decrease AND increase trigger pull without special tools. It's great - because if you reduce trigger pull too much, you can reverse it easily, which makes it doable for everybody.

The whole project takes 30 min, including learning curve, assuming you know how to take the gun apart.

Actually, you don't even need to take the whole thing apart. All you need to do is remove the grip safety.

The gun I use is a new model 1911 from Canada Ammo. Very good pistol, forged frame and slide, and price is far more than reasonable.

For latest Norc 1911, you need to remove panel on left side:

3154409811_58b827d690_o.jpg


Now the pistol is ready for trigger job:

3155246764_124c353676_o.jpg



The secret of 1911 trigger pull is on this spring:
3154409911_139c096aea_o.jpg


Mr. Browning used one spring to do three jobs:
1, Push trigger forward (the first finger on left side)
2, Push diconnector ( the middle finger)
3, Push grip safety backward. (the right side finger)

To understand how it works, you need to put the back stripe on:

3154410021_0b5485e676_o.jpg


Now pull the trigger while moving hammer up and down. You can easily understand how the 2 fingers (with red arrows) hold the trigger forward.

Now you need to take out the spring and take a picture like this:

3154409969_3bd7d28d7a_o.jpg


Do it before you make any change, so you have a pic shows you what the spring looks like in factory setting. (The spring in the picture, however, has been modified. I don't know what it looks like before now. That's the reason I want you to do that.)

Now you can bend the 2 red arrow fingers backward until it looks like the one above. Since you can always bend it back, you can try as many times as you want - just make sure the fingers still touch the trigger!

3155313440_124c41e8eb_o.jpg


The CanAm 1911 has a trigger pull of 4~5 pounds, which is standard for a military pistol. Everybody should be able to reduce it to around 2-1/2 pounds.

Happy New Year and Have Fun!
 
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Once again,you are really better off sending your gun to a gunsmith if you want a lighter trigger.A "trigger job" on a 1911 involves work with the sear and hammer interface(not a job for the amateur!),with the sear spring being adjusted as well.

There are a few mistakes in your diagram,looking at the sear spring from behind,#1 (left arm of the spring),works on the sear engagement with the hammer.#2(middle arm) works on the disconnector and resets the trigger.

My guess is that if you have a 2.5lb trigger purely by bending springs you are setting yourself up for a full auto experience!
 
There are a few mistakes in your diagram,looking at the sear spring from behind,#1 (left arm of the spring),works on the sear engagement with the hammer.#2(middle arm) works on the disconnector and resets the trigger.

What?

1, Push trigger forward (the first finger on left side)
2, Push diconnector ( the middle finger)
 
Struthers.gif


Sally Struthers of International Correspondance Schools approves of this trigger job.
 
Personally I don't like the idea of altering a springs original shape. It must place abnormal stress on the spring in some fashion. It may not be noticeable right away... but that one time when you need to stop 8 zombies and you have a FA experience... you'll flash back to bending that spring... you'll ask yourself why, as the zombies consume your flesh.
 
Personally I don't like the idea of altering a springs original shape. It must place abnormal stress on the spring in some fashion..

Nope, gentle bends in spring steel is fine. The spheroidal nodular graphitic content is what allows the bending of spring steel (and actually defines it) the ferrite-pearlitic matrix of spring steel doesn't have the crystalline graphite which is the nucleation point for cracks.

P.S. Pay more attention in physics class!:slap:
 
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What?

1, Push trigger forward (the first finger on left side)
2, Push diconnector ( the middle finger)

Yes,
As viewed from the rear of the gun with the grip safety removed;
The left hand finger of the sear spring puts pressure on the sear to engage the hammer,it does not push the trigger forward.
The middle finger puts pressure on the disconnector as well as returning the trigger forward.
The right hand finger of the spring puts pressure on the grip safety

There is a good article on the Brownells website on working on the trigger of a 1911,or else get Jerry Kuhnhausens book,"The Colt 45 Automatic,a shop manual".

You also dont mention how to safety check a 1911 after doing adjustments such as this.

Putting out information like this without getting your facts correct is a sure way for some people to get themselves into trouble.
 
Putting out information like this without getting your facts correct is a sure way for some people to get themselves into trouble.

We get serious guys here! You know it's just some free info from internet, right? :cool:

It's just a spring, if you don't like it, don't do it.
 
Nope, gentle bends in spring steel is fine. The spheroidal nodular graphitic content is what allows the bending of spring steel (and actually defines it) the ferrite-pearlitic matrix of spring steel doesn't have the crystalline graphite which is the nucleation point for cracks.

P.S. Pay more attention in physics class!:slap:

I only remember skipping physics class...
 
Thanks ,I will try this when I get home,.
I already have a nice trigger cause of all the polishing I did, but never tried playing with the spring. Great info


oh and You need a Gunsmith to work on a S&W 686. I tried without didnt work
 
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