Python question

BC Mike

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This might be more appropriate in gunsmithing but I'll start here. I'd like to have a 4" Python but don't have 12-6. How much of a PITA is it to cut down my 6" to 4.5 considering the ramp on the barrel? Not that concerned with taking away resale value etc.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Post a picture of your gun.

I'm not a gunsmith but I've done a lot of machining over my years. It shouldn't be a big deal provided the diameter of the barrel where you want it cut is large enough to do the thread cutting and still retain a big enough shoulder to seat up against the frame.

If it's not able to do this then the answer may be to cut the tip off and re-crown at the new length and cut a dovetail or other mount for a new/modified front sight.
 
Cut the end of the barrel off. Simpler than machining new threads plus ejector slot.

Python has a full length vented rib and 4 1/4" is almost perfect for shortening the barrel at the centre of a non-vented portion.

The only thing is there is a slightly raised portion of the sighting rib that begins to taper lower back from the muzzle. It means the pins holding in the front sight might have to be a tiny bit lower on the top of the rib.

I have considered exactly the same thing.

Pictures posted tonight.

 
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Cut the end of the barrel off. Simpler than machining new threads plus ejector slot.

Python has a full length vented rib and 4 1/4" is almost perfect for shortening the barrel at the centre of a non-vented portion.

The only thing is there is a slightly raised portion of the sighting rib that begins to taper lower back from the muzzle. It means the pins holding in the front sight might have to be a tiny bit lower on the top of the rib.

I have considered exactly the same thing.

Pictures posted tonight.


That's right. I'm just concerned about the ramp being in proportion to the sight as it is a major part of the "look" of a Python. Also the Python has the muzzle slightly extended past the barrel shroud. nDid you have any ideas about that?

Mike
 
That's right. I'm just concerned about the ramp being in proportion to the sight as it is a major part of the "look" of a Python. Also the Python has the muzzle slightly extended past the barrel shroud. nDid you have any ideas about that?

Mike

The "shroud" and barrel are actually all one piece. When cut down, a portion around the barrel just has to be left long. My dimension of 107mm would be to the front of the rib/lug, and the overall length of the barrel would actually be another 2.5mm longer. That would maintain the "look" of the barrel.
 
The "shroud" and barrel are actually all one piece. When cut down, a portion around the barrel just has to be left long. My dimension of 107mm would be to the front of the rib/lug, and the overall length of the barrel would actually be another 2.5mm longer. That would maintain the "look" of the barrel.

I see. That looks interesting. The ramp appears to also be integral to the barrel/shroud as well. You would lose a bit of the ramp height but with the sight at the end it wouldn't be that noticable. I see your barrel is older as it has two retaining pins. My '92 has only one whereas my '74 has two. Do you do gunsmithing yourself or do you have someone in ind to take on the project if you go for it?

Mike
 
I see. That looks interesting. The ramp appears to also be integral to the barrel/shroud as well. You would lose a bit of the ramp height but with the sight at the end it wouldn't be that noticable. I see your barrel is older as it has two retaining pins. My '92 has only one whereas my '74 has two. Do you do gunsmithing yourself or do you have someone in ind to take on the project if you go for it?

Mike

I don't do any major gunsmithing, just odds and ends. Right now I don't have anyone in mind.

Also note that there is a major difference between the barrels that have 1 pin or 2 pins. The barrel threads are different. I believe the change was around 1992.

Old style - 2 pins - .5634-32 threads.
New style - 1 pin - .562-36 threads.

Just for the sake of arguement, did'nt I once hear that Colt revolvers of this make have tapered bores?

You are correct, they do have tapered bores. I had forgotten all about that.

Cutting the muzzle end would probably loose a little bit of accuracy, but may or may not be noticeable. I would suspect that accuracy with hollow base wadcutters wouldn't be affected that much but it would have more of an effect on solid base and jacketed bullets.
 
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Just DONT DO IT!!!!!, there were some 5" barrels made for a very short period of time.. in Blue, try looking for one of those instead.

But dont butcher a Python..sheesh :D
 
Just DONT DO IT!!!!!, there were some 5" barrels made for a very short period of time.. in Blue, try looking for one of those instead.

But dont butcher a Python..sheesh :D

I won't but it's because it doesn't appear to be practical. I've got my unfired '74 safe queen in nickle and thought it might be interesting to have my blue one in a shorter version. Still for sale in EE for one more week.

Mike
 
Na, go for it. You only live once (or so I have been told. ;) ) It's just a gun and you could always find another barrel if it doesn't work out.

I would personally make the rib you cut the same length as the first rib next to the frame. So maybe add 1mm or so to the picture Sandroad posted.

Would you cut it straight at the muzzle or change it a bit? Give it a cool custom look?


Fudd
 
When I think about someone even considering chopping the barrel on something like a Colt Python it makes me want to
2006-05-20_153619_1aCryBaby.gif
 
When I think about someone even considering chopping the barrel on something like a Colt Python it makes me want to
2006-05-20_153619_1aCryBaby.gif

I used to think the same way but I changed my mind for a couple of reasons. One is that I do have another beautiful ’74 nickle Python (only factory tested ) safely tucked away and what Fudd says is true, at the end of the day it IS just a gun. Although a beautiful example of a first-rate blue that isn’t produced anymore it's not on the endangered list yet.

Another reason is our nonsensical law regarding minimum barrel length. In the 70’s I had a Dan Wesson Pistol Pack. My favorite barrel was the 4” with perfect balance for a .357 frame. I don’t shoot my 6” Python often because to be honest I think it's a bit front heavy at 6”. If I had a 4.5” Python I would use it a lot more.

My reason for not doing it at this time is because unless it was cut at the cylinder end, rethreaded and cut perfectly for the ejection rod it wouldn't look quite right with the ramp not being exact, sights off a bit and now I understand there is a tapered barrel issue. I see it costing $600-$800 to do it right and that's not an option.

If it doesn’t sell next week in EE I’ll probably put it away till spring so it will be safe from the “butcher” till then at least.
 
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agree with the members about leaving the 6" python alone, wouldn't do that to the ones i have,

if you are going to chop one down, how about the 686? i owned a pair of smith 581's, consec. #'s years ago, and they were the best point shooting balanced handgun then, sold them, not grandfathered

there are some 4.5 inch smith revolvers on the ee right now for reasonable prices, that is always an option.

i managed to buy a "4 inch" 686 about 1.5 years ago, for $300 prohib price from wss, i asked them to check the barrel length and it made restricted class, and was reverified by the cfo

have seen colt pythons at 4", but all fell under prohib, colt was not as inconsistent as smiths leaving the factory

but good luck with your project, i would consider it if the factory royal bluing is all worn off a 6" barrel, and i don't want to attempt to reblue the whole gun which is never the same after that.

were you thinking of restoring the front muzzle crown/barrel profile after cutting?
 
I don’t shoot my 6” Python often because to be honest I think it's a bit front heavy at 6”. If I had a 4.5” Python I would use it a lot more.
Sounds like a great reason to get it done. And if you like Pythons better than your other 357 Magnum range guns it sounds like you should do it.


My reason for not doing it at this time is because unless it was cut at the cylinder end, rethreaded and cut perfectly for the ejection rod it wouldn't look quite right with the ramp not being exact, sights off a bit...
I'm not a gunsmith but I think it would be much cheaper to have the muzzle cut. And are you talking about that slight change in height of the ramp only? It doesn't look like it would be much at all.


... and now I understand there is a tapered barrel issue.
This is interesting but how much of a taper is it? Is it linear for the whole length or just a taper over the first 1" or so of the bullet travel? I would think the later would make more sense but I have no idea. Either way the taper wouldn't be huge and I am doubtful that it would be a factor on target. More of a factor would be the reduced sight radius.

I would do some more shopping around for rough quotes. And remember it will be cheaper than buying a new gun with the shorter barrel.

I would get creative with the muzzle end. They can do a lot with CNCs these days and the gunsmith can part out that work to any company as the barrel isn't a gun. Sounds like a fun project to me! :D

And remember, it is only a Colt. It's not like it is a nice shiny Smith & Wesson! :p


Fudd
 
And remember, it is only a Colt. It's not like it is a nice shiny Smith & Wesson! :p

Fudd

You're absolutley right! I wouldn't want to wreck a work of art like a rare 686, especially the nice dash 6's with the cool increased security keylock and improved cylinder thumb release....:D
 
You're absolutley right! I wouldn't want to wreck a work of art like a rare 686, especially the nice dash 6's with the cool increased security keylock and improved cylinder thumb release....:D
I'm always happy when people agree with me! :D

Ya, those key locks are cool. I wouldn't buy a new gun without 'em. It makes 'em so much safer and looks cool too!

Safety first!


Fudd
 
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