Started shooting ATA in 2008 and bought myself a Beretta 682 Gold E. I'm planning on going into International trap this Spring and wondering from shooters what their opinion is on choke tubes. I havent measured the Beretta choke tubes yet but wondering - Is Briley really that good or better. Is there an advantage of Briley over Beretta? Any suggestions.
Briley Or Beretta Choke Tubes
- Thread starter 358Scout
- Start date
Either or! I would stick with the tubes that came with your gun unless you have identified a deficiency in pattern or p.o.i. that may require a custom tube. In any event, just ordering briley stock tubes for your Beretta will not insure improvement.
My Briley tubes pattern pretty much the same as the factory ones, they just LOOK cooler being extended tubes.
The Beretta Optima tubes are extended and cool colur coded.
I think that Briley has contracted to make many of the tubes that come with Brownings, Winchesters, Rugers, Ithaca and a bunch of others. I really do not think it makes a difference but if I was going to go for customs, I would go for the full meal deal and have a specialist measure and fit and make sure it works for me. Just me, but I would opt for custom stock work before tubes. If I allready had a gun that fit right, I would put my money into more ammo and targets and maybe some good instruction.
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I use these chokes
http://www.trulockchokes.com/cgi-bin/eShop/index.cgi
George trulock is a super guy and can anwser any questions you may have.
That being said, I also have Berreta , Rizzini, and F.A.I.R chokes.
Cat
http://www.trulockchokes.com/cgi-bin/eShop/index.cgi
George trulock is a super guy and can anwser any questions you may have.
That being said, I also have Berreta , Rizzini, and F.A.I.R chokes.
Cat
Briley offers custom off centre tubes just for dealing with tubes that do not pattern well or getting both barrels to shoot to the same p.o.i. Many o/us, even the better brands come with different p.o.i. between top and bottom barrels. Trap shooter often get off centre tubes to throw the pattern higher instead of adjusting stock or rib.
MauserMike
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
I was doing some reading on POI testing yesterday on trapshooters.com. One poster recommends POI testing every choke you use. He has found many with improperly centred threads that changed the POI, and not with every choke in the same gun.
I agree! Now I think of it, it is another good reason that I have switched to an auto loader. Cuts my testing in half.
MauserMike
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
Well, a double is twice as much work even with fixed chokes as you have barrel regulation to worry about too.
Just to be clear, he wasn't only talking about crooked threads on the barrel(s) but also on some chokes.
Personally, I think I'll stick with my one gun for a long time to keep from having to screw around with testing it!!!
Just to be clear, he wasn't only talking about crooked threads on the barrel(s) but also on some chokes.
Personally, I think I'll stick with my one gun for a long time to keep from having to screw around with testing it!!!
I used Briely extended chokes with my Browning XT trap and noticed a difference. The pattern was more uniform and the shot was even throughout the pattern. My browning chokes were not as good.
Now I am shooting a Beretta 682 X Trap and the Beretta chokes appear to be as good as those brielys were. I have been using them and I don't plan to get brielys.
Now I am shooting a Beretta 682 X Trap and the Beretta chokes appear to be as good as those brielys were. I have been using them and I don't plan to get brielys.
Maybe Browning noticed the difference as well? A Browning rep told me that the midas, diana, and the new diamond extended tubes are manufactured by briley for browning. I have not actually checked this out as I got rid of all my brownings, except my SX2. I am very pleased with the beretta optima tubes.
beretta boy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Orillia, Ontario
Pattern your gun first... both for Point of Aim (POA) and Point of Impact (POI).
I do both at 16 yards, generally with a Full or Imp/Mod choke.
POA is "static" ... basically "bench-rest" your shotgun as you would a rifle ... you're trying to see if the shogun actually shoots "straight" to where you are carefull "aiming" it - rib dead flatand bead(s) centered on a small 2 or 3 inch "aimpoint". POI is more "dynamic" - done standing up, shooting as you would in the field or on your station. Raise the gun in one smooth motion
( say, as if it were a lazy straight-away and a very gently rising target ) just the insant you are "on" ( no delay, it has to be virtually "instinctive" ) pull the trigger. Above all, don't "aim" just shoulder the gun and shoot - like you normally would - any attempt to "aim" is counter-productive. Many state every inch of POI error requires 1/16" correction to the comb, either up or down - or cast-on/off to correct. For a right handed shooter, shooting consistantly high and left for example, would reguire a little more cast off and the comb to be lowered ( provided LOP and Pitch were already correct).
Length of pull and pitch can vary things a little, but all contrbute to the mechanics of a smooth, consistant, comfortable and repeatable gun mount, which in turn contributes to having "the gun shoot where you are looking".
Changes should be approached rather cautiously and on the conservative side ( you can't put wood back on where its been taken off !) An experianced gunfitter/gunsmith is a valuable asset.
Pattern for choke/load after the gun "fits" and is "shooting where you are looking" ... for 16 yard shooting, 32-34 yards is about right, for the back fence, 44-46 yards. Pick one distance for each and stick with it.
45 yards works.
I do both at 16 yards, generally with a Full or Imp/Mod choke.
POA is "static" ... basically "bench-rest" your shotgun as you would a rifle ... you're trying to see if the shogun actually shoots "straight" to where you are carefull "aiming" it - rib dead flatand bead(s) centered on a small 2 or 3 inch "aimpoint". POI is more "dynamic" - done standing up, shooting as you would in the field or on your station. Raise the gun in one smooth motion
( say, as if it were a lazy straight-away and a very gently rising target ) just the insant you are "on" ( no delay, it has to be virtually "instinctive" ) pull the trigger. Above all, don't "aim" just shoulder the gun and shoot - like you normally would - any attempt to "aim" is counter-productive. Many state every inch of POI error requires 1/16" correction to the comb, either up or down - or cast-on/off to correct. For a right handed shooter, shooting consistantly high and left for example, would reguire a little more cast off and the comb to be lowered ( provided LOP and Pitch were already correct).
Length of pull and pitch can vary things a little, but all contrbute to the mechanics of a smooth, consistant, comfortable and repeatable gun mount, which in turn contributes to having "the gun shoot where you are looking".
Changes should be approached rather cautiously and on the conservative side ( you can't put wood back on where its been taken off !) An experianced gunfitter/gunsmith is a valuable asset.
Pattern for choke/load after the gun "fits" and is "shooting where you are looking" ... for 16 yard shooting, 32-34 yards is about right, for the back fence, 44-46 yards. Pick one distance for each and stick with it.
45 yards works.
Harlan Campbell, @ his clinic, got each of us to pattern the gun as part of the lesson. It was about 32-34 yds I believe. Interesting thing was he made each guy shoot 3 into the dirt before the patterning began. He said you need a warm barrel, like when you will be shooting. He was looking for the entire pattern to be on top of the bead, (& centered left/right), as a good starting point. I mostly agree with that. It seems to work the best for me. But it's brutal when the wind drives the targets down ! Hard to shoot a high POI then. He was a very determined guy, I noticed, and very methodical about detail. Bruce
beretta boy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Orillia, Ontario
Well, it certainly works for Harlan, he's ben at or very near the top of the ATA heap for the past half-dozen years or so ... but there have been others before him at the top, who adopted other approaches.
Some trapshooters want 60/40 others 70/30, 80/20 and so on, some even with variations in between. Others shoot their best with 50/50 guns. All seems to depend on what sort of technique they have developed for hold point, target acquisition and movement (or "swing" ) in getting to the target.
Anything over 60/40 seems by consensus however, to be counterproductive to good skeet & sporting scores. A good many International Trap shooters that I have talked to, want their guns to be 50/50 ... or, stated otherwise, to shoot "flat".
Some trapshooters want 60/40 others 70/30, 80/20 and so on, some even with variations in between. Others shoot their best with 50/50 guns. All seems to depend on what sort of technique they have developed for hold point, target acquisition and movement (or "swing" ) in getting to the target.
Anything over 60/40 seems by consensus however, to be counterproductive to good skeet & sporting scores. A good many International Trap shooters that I have talked to, want their guns to be 50/50 ... or, stated otherwise, to shoot "flat".
