Shotgun care

B

blackpowder

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Is it better to lubricate your shotgun when you shoot and how often. I have been told both ways...to shoot it dry and wet. Is this based on the make of the shotgun; pump or auto; weather conditions or just personal preference. I clean my gun after 400-500 shells then put a few drops of very light gun oil in the receiver and trigger mechanism. Is this enough or too much. I shoot a Beretta 392 Urika Paralle auto (new) with promo powder(dirty).
 
Beretta 391s like to be shot "wet" which to me means a light coating of oil on the action rails and magazine tube. Most times when a Beretta starts acting up it's due to lack of lubrication.
 
Too Much Oil may also slow the action in Semis after few rounds due to Build up
Good Mechanics prefer a light touch of Oil on the gun parts after cleaning and I have seen it works when I use my Semi Auto at range
 
I have tried them both ways. Both seem to work. Wet seems to cause a lot more gunk and action needs more frequent cleaning. Now, I shoot as dry as I can. Clean with G-96 or break free and wipe off as much as I can. This way, I clean less. I carry a spray can with me and plan to go wet if I ever start to have problems. The only time I have used it at the range is to rescue other guns. Those problem alway appear to be too dry or too much gunk build up.
 
Covey Ridge said:
I have tried them both ways. Both seem to work. Wet seems to cause a lot more gunk and action needs more frequent cleaning. Now, I shoot as dry as I can. Clean with G-96 or break free and wipe off as much as I can. This way, I clean less. I carry a spray can with me and plan to go wet if I ever start to have problems. The only time I have used it at the range is to rescue other guns. Those problem alway appear to be too dry or too much gunk build up.
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I finish off my cleaning with a wipe down of break free on my 391.
 
Our definitions of "wet" and "dry" aren't that different. To me "dry" means a couple of drops or even no lubrication. "Wet" means a light, barely visible coating of oil on the moving parts. When the gun is "wet" I've found them easier to clean because the carbon doesn't harden on the metal and is easier to remove.

But now here is a little known fact about the Beretta 391. It has a self-regulating system to correct over lubrication. ;)

I discovered this when a shooter was on my squad with a brand spanking new 391 in 20 gauge that was jamming badly. I checked the gun and noted it was bone dry so I pulled out my bottle of Break-Free and was over enthusiastic in my application. The gun was dripping.

For the next 25 shots or so his head was surrounded with fine oil mist that came off the gun. I later checked his gun and it had about the same amount of lubrication on the moving parts that mine did.
 
LOL, I've never put that much CLP in the gun! There must have been quite the oily mess under the forearm and in the forearm vent. (bad for the wood?)
 
Claybuster said:
I checked the gun and noted it was bone dry so I pulled out my bottle of Break-Free and was over enthusiastic in my application. The gun was dripping.

For the next 25 shots or so his head was surrounded with fine oil mist that came off the gun.
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You're lucky that your friend wasn't a lab rat. I read an article once that said that large applications of break have been proven to cause cancer in lab rats. I keep my break free away from my lab rat:D
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MauserMike said:
LOL, I've never put that much CLP in the gun! There must have been quite the oily mess under the forearm and in the forearm vent. (bad for the wood?)
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I hadn't intended to put that much in and that's why I looked at the gun after the round. There was a little oil in the forend channel but it wasn't as bad as I'd expected. A quick wipe out with a paper towel and it was fine.
 
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