1911 for hard use?

evan the cdn

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If you were going to use a 1911 for hard use in all weather conditions in things like 3 gun matches and tactical pistol courses what would you use and how would you use it?

What aftermarket or factory parts would work best? Fixed sights and agressive grips came to mind.

How would you prepare it? I'm thinking about using blue lock-tite on the things I don't want to come loose, like the grip screws.

I appreciate that some of you would just recommend using something like a Glock or M&P but I'd like to explore the possibilities with the 1911 platform.
 
I'd go pretty plain; Novak sights, standard recoil spring guide, single sided safety, Gunner grips, decent throat polish, 4 pound trigger, Wolffe Springs (factory standard), no 'accuracy work' or tightening, probably some skateboard tape around the front strap. The loc-Tite probably isn't necessary, but you're probably smart to use it anyway.
 
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+1 for the skateboard tape. I am sure I would start with a Springfield MilSpec 1911, bob the hammer, and add sights if I couldn't use the factory sights; I prefer King-Tappan sights (see photo). I would also want a good trigger and quality magazines. I currently use MetalForm magazines. Regards, Richard:)

King-Tappan sights:
RockIsland3.jpg
 
I'm thinking about using either a S.A. GI or Mil-Spec. The only downside is that I prefer different sights. Is it cost effective to have a smith machine the slide to accept new sights or would I be better off starting with a pistol that has a style of sight that I want to keep?

I like the Novak's that are on my Loaded and these Wilson Combat sights look interesting too.
wilsonsightoo8.jpg
 
Just buy a S&W 1911 or STI Trojan. Unlike some other 1911s, these guns come from the factory ready to go and don't require any parts upgrades, reliability work or general dicking around with.
 
Just buy a S&W 1911 or STI Trojan. Unlike some other 1911s, these guns come from the factory ready to go and don't require any parts upgrades, reliability work or general dicking around with.

I disagree. Even if I didn't want to use this for hard use I would probably still change the plastic mainspring housing out for a metal one. For this application those target sights don't seem appropriate for a bunch of reasons.
 
I disagree. Even if I didn't want to use this for hard use I would probably still change the plastic mainspring housing out for a metal one. For this application those target sights don't seem appropriate for a bunch of reasons.
Not sure about the Trojan, but S&W comes with a metal mainspring housing (although there is nothing wrong with the plastic one). Both of the aforementioned guns can be had with either fixed Novak or adjustable Bomar-style sights.

P.S. What are the reasons that make adjustable sights inappropriate for 3-gun matches and "tactical" pistol courses?
 
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Not sure about the Trojan, but S&W comes with a metal mainspring housing (although there is nothing wrong with the plastic one). Both of the aforementioned guns can be had with either fixed Novak or adjustable Bomar-style sights.

P.S. What are the reasons that make adjustable sights inappropriate for 3-gun matches and "tactical" pistol courses?
Sorry, I only saw Trojan and didn't see that you said S&W also.

It's not the adjustability that I'm trying to avoid it's the extra parts that can come loose or break off and the potential for snagging on the sharper grooves and edges. Apparently part of the course I'm attending is dedicated to one handed drills that include methods to operate every function of the gun including racking the slide with only one hand.

I understand the use of quotation marks around the word "tactical" when it's describing children's schoolbags or camouflage toothbrushes but why are they necessary for describing a pistol course?
 
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Apparently part of the course I'm attending is dedicated to one handed drills that include methods to operate every function of the gun including racking the slide with only one hand.

Then make sure you do not have a full length guide rod, it really gets in the way. Also, if you have Novak sights you don't have the luxury of being able to rack the slide using the sights, so the spring plug becomes one of very few options. I agree about the adjustable sights, and the plastic mainspring housing. Novak makes a sight that doesn't require a slide cut - they are higher, but they're basically bullet proof, look for the 'Competition' sight
 
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Then make sure you do not have a full length guide rod, it really gets in the way. Also, if you have Novak sights you don't have the luxury of being able to rack the slide using the sights, so the spring plug becomes one of very few options.

Very good to know! I hadn't considered the drawback there.
 
I'll vote against loctite - just snug and you are good to go.

loctite introduces other problems later when you strip it and isn't necessary IMHO.
 
Just one more thought, magazines - use the GI style welded 7 shot units, or Shooting Star 8 shots (or equivalent) the Mec-Gar and other Italian mags can have issues in very hard use, and when using 'real world' gear at very high speed. I've seen a Mec-Gar flex enough when being pulled out of a Kydex holder that the follower (and the stuff above it!!) entirely left the magazine via the top, leaving only the body and floor plate. Take only magazines you know are 100% reliable in your gun, and number them so you can spot and ditch a mag that goes bad. Oh yes, and have twice as many mags as you reasonably think you need. :D Something like Richard's Norc would serve very well, it's what used to be called a 'defensive pistol' by Col. Cooper.
 
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