Newbie/Greenhorn/Rookie's First Attempt at a No1 MKIII Sporter to Military Conversion

ki11ercane

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Well here she is. My first attempt at converting a really crappy SHTLE back to it's military glory.

First off, this is my first attempt at doing this. Every aspect of this conversion was a first for the processes involved. Everything from dis-assembling the rifle, stripping the wood, sanding it, oiling it, and putting it back together. The entire experience was all new to me. So of course this first attempt is not close to perfect, however it's a lot better now than when I got it.

This rifle came to me from another dealer in horrible shape. It was neutered as a Sporter. The bolt spring was busted in 12 places, and it was covered in poo-looking crud. (90 year old dried packing grease) While the rifle conversion is finished, it still has a lot of cleaning left to be done on it in all the nooks and crannies.

I used a product called "Heirloom" to strip off the packing grease and as much crud as possible. There were red and white lines from it being a "training rifle" stock that came off easly. Used a paint scraper for the scraping. I then sanded it by hand going from a coarse to fine grit. I didn't stain the wood on this one. I used the boiled linseed approach. A lot of people commented it would need "15" coats. I could not even put 5 into it.

I consider this rifle a learning tool for me. I already know a lot of things I did wrong and what I need for tools next time to make the next one look better. For starters, the metal parts in the conversion kit I got for it was had pitting on it even though it was in packing grease for over 40 years. In an attempt to make the metal look better, I used this heavy enamel paint to clean it up. It looked AWESOME when it was done, but almost right away started to come off. If this rifle was going into a display case and was only going to be handled with cotton gloves and never fired, the paint would have made it look new from the factory. Next time I will simply degrease it and leave it as is. I also used a wire brush for cleaning. I probably shouldn't have. I am investing in nylon brushes for the next one.

For sanding, I used a lot of elbow grease in an attempt to keep the color of the wood uniform, but again I think this was a mistake. Next time I am going to use a palm sander to guarantee the color is a uniform as possible.

For the boiled linseed, I used a brush rather than a rag. Again next time, I may use a rag, or depending on the color of the wood on my next kit, stain it with a urethane based stain.

If you have any comments or criticism, I am all ears. I plan to do as many of these as I can get a hold of because I feel this is the only way to get better at it. I also strip and re-finish SKS stocks as well as the SKS is my other "Enfield addiction" so both projects will go hand in hand.

Thanks for reading and looking!

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Hi K, congrats on getting that first one done!

Hey, I can't see the pictures except the third one :(

From the text though, I can quickly say:

5 coats and not 15: very likely with used wood already soaked with the oil, that's a big difference between new and used stock.

Sanding: often, it's wasy to remove too much wood when sanding. And, good thing these were DP wood parts and not original, because then sanding would have been a big "no no".

Cleaning the stock - did you degrease them with paint thinner first, then use furniture stripper to remove previous surface finish? Often that prepares the wood perfectly for stain use, towards a good color match.

Metal looking bad: good cleaning, metal brush if rusted, then: reblue kit from your favorite gun store; I found it's the easiest and still allows for a relatively authentic refurb.

That's all for now, gotta go

lou
 
Nice Rifle!!! Everything lou said! Stick to one type of sandpaper. Don't switch back & forth between aluminum & garnet papers as the stain will tint differently over the wood where it has been sanded with the different paper. 15 coats of linseed on new wood? I'm not sure if its correct on an Enfield, but try tung oil. Always know what the original type of stain was before applying, because if you don't you'll be called a Bubba!!!:p
 
15 coats of linseed on new wood? I'm not sure if its correct on an Enfield,

Yup, linseed oil is the stuff on Lee Enfields. Number of coats depends mostly on the wood - especially if it's been soaked before (like what Ki11ercane used), it won't require many coats. But I've done a few refurbs with new wood and that takes roughly 1,312,974 coats ;)
 
One coat of BLO (boiled linseed oil) a day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat a month for a year, then one coat per year thereafter.

... Or so say the holy mullahs of Enfield...

Nice first job!

Neal
 
Good job! Nice to see another one restored to glory. Only real criticism is the sanding, but hey, you did a good job and she looks great!

Now - Range photos!!!
 
Good job! Nice to see another one restored to glory. Only real criticism is the sanding, but hey, you did a good job and she looks great!

Now - Range photos!!!

Range is next, but the bore is very dirty and it's still -22*C here in SpringisnevergoingtocomeWinterpeg. I spent an hour yesterday scrubbing it and there is still crusties in it. (I am worried these crusties are not dirt they are pitting) I downloaded an "Enfield service manual" that gave step by step instructions on cleaning heavily soiled Enfield barrels and one of the steps requires leaving it for 24 hours in kerosene or solvent. That's my next step tonight.

Another concern is head spacing. I never asked what it was so my concern is having an accident, so I intend to go to the range on a day someone else can come in case I have to be rushed to the hospital with a piece of metal in my forehead. ;) Lets hope not. I am using handloads. (I have the powder and bullet loadout at home so I don't remember it at the moment but all 500+ rounds I have are the same)

Next kit I am going to do "no" sanding, use the Heirloom product again, then use paint thinner to prep the wood for BLO. Or, instead of BLO I may use a dark stain. I have a Malthby that I got on the cheap that was done in a dark almost dark chocolate finish and it looks amazing.

Thanks for all the pointers!
 
Headspace.

If bolt and action match, most probably ok.


Bolt heads are numbered. Bigger number means longer head (reduces headspace).

Two quick ways to check, just in case there is something terribly wrong.

Take the a bolt head with a bigger number off another rifle, install on test rifle and see if bolt will close without compression on a sized case. If it does, use that bolt head for the test shooting.

Take an unprimed sized case and place it over a primer. Put a long bolt or screwdriver into the case and lightly tap, so the primer will stick into the flash hole, but is not seated. The primer will stick out of the case. Gently chamber this case abd gently close the bolt on it. The bolt face will seat the primer. DO NOT PULL TRIGGER!! Open the bolt. The amount of primer protrusion is the amount of excesss headspace in the rifle.
 
Someone at the range last night suggested a method employing tape. I am going to try that.

Guess I need to find/buy a head space tool if I am going to do this a lot.
 
Nice old rifle!! I have several "Smellies" that came to me in their original forms, and it seems to me that I might have acquired a couple of Bubbas lately, too. Great old rifles. Keep up the good work.:p:p
 
Great job getting another old Mk.III back her self respect! I would avoid sandpaper, though, and try to avoid the use of stain. Some of the wood on L-E's doesn't take stain very well, and the results can be downright weird! Hard to remove it, too. When I apply boiled linseed oil, I thin the first coat with turpentine, and brush it on thick. Let it soak in for a couple of hours, and then rub it in well with your hand, and wipe off the excess. Thinning it helps it penetrate deeply into the wood, makes the later work go faster. It also helps if you keep the oil warm. Put it in a pyrex measuring cup and keep it on a mug warmer. And linseed oil is great for your hands! I never have dry hands even in the Winter. :)
 
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