reloading walmart win hulls
- Thread starter bruno
- Start date
It's a good idea not to reload steel bases as they will split and crack before brass thins and stretches.
That being said I have reloaded cheap steel based trap shells and haven't had any problems. I only reloaded them once with a reasonable trap load and checked them for stress fractures in advance.
That being said I have reloaded cheap steel based trap shells and haven't had any problems. I only reloaded them once with a reasonable trap load and checked them for stress fractures in advance.
MauserMike
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
Rem gun clubs aren't bad and are compression formed.
The bases of Winchester AA, Remington STS and Federal Gold Medal are brass. Pop the primer and check them with a magnet to confirm.
Last edited:
- Location
- Thunder Bay ON Canada
I have four reloads on the case of hulls I bought last year from wallyworld. It looks like the crimps might crack off before the steel bases fail, so I might start roll crimping them with pumpkin slugs.
They're very mild steel bases, and quite soft and pliable. I do have to size them every time, unlike my brass based hulls, where I don't bother.
I've heard alot of moaning about different hulls, but I'm not seeing alot of difference myself, when patterning. What I'm seeing on the paper (free at my club, thank god), is that wad selection, and a good consistent crimp seems to be the two keys to getting good patterns*.
*except for my buckshot loads, where using ground plastic buffer made all the difference in the world; even as close as 20 yards which was a surprise. I have also found that using the buffer has reduced leading that I get when using the softer alloys that I'm getting now from the cable sheathing and roofing flashing. That's a very good thing for me as I cast my own buckshot and buying hardening alloys from rotometals adds up pretty quickly on a students budget.
They're very mild steel bases, and quite soft and pliable. I do have to size them every time, unlike my brass based hulls, where I don't bother.
I've heard alot of moaning about different hulls, but I'm not seeing alot of difference myself, when patterning. What I'm seeing on the paper (free at my club, thank god), is that wad selection, and a good consistent crimp seems to be the two keys to getting good patterns*.
*except for my buckshot loads, where using ground plastic buffer made all the difference in the world; even as close as 20 yards which was a surprise. I have also found that using the buffer has reduced leading that I get when using the softer alloys that I'm getting now from the cable sheathing and roofing flashing. That's a very good thing for me as I cast my own buckshot and buying hardening alloys from rotometals adds up pretty quickly on a students budget.
so to speak, isn't it better to use fired 3.5" to reload as 3" or 2 3/4" to avoid crimping at the same place?
- Location
- Thunder Bay ON Canada
Pumpkin slugs are just a .690 pure lead roundball over a fiber wad, or a plastic wad with the petals cut off. They're really short, about 2 inches and a bit or so depending on what you use.
I use a 2 3/4 " shell with the crimps and a bit extra snipped off and a plastic shotcup with the petals clipped off. If I could find a reliable source of short fiber wads in canada, I could probably make up 1 3/4 inchers.I've also given some thought to a steel shotcup which might work well too.
The shorties feed just fine in win 1300's which is what I have but I've heard they don't always do so well in 870's and mossy's.
I use a 2 3/4 " shell with the crimps and a bit extra snipped off and a plastic shotcup with the petals clipped off. If I could find a reliable source of short fiber wads in canada, I could probably make up 1 3/4 inchers.I've also given some thought to a steel shotcup which might work well too.
The shorties feed just fine in win 1300's which is what I have but I've heard they don't always do so well in 870's and mossy's.
