Stain removal/varnishing Norinco M1A stocks

Anarethos

Anarethos

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Hi all!

Sorry if it has been already spoken about, but I didn't found anything about that.

What I would like to do is to remove the actual stain of the Norinco M1A stock and re-varnish the whole stock with a clearer and harder varnish.

Is it possible or the oil use to protect the original stocks will give me problem?

I never worked with varnish before, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Buy a Boyds. the chu-wood of the norinco is not the best to be working with. If you must refinish, then spray with oven cleaner, scrub with 000 steel wool, rinse and repeat 3 - 4 times.

You can finish it in the dishwasher.

Be advised that the soft chu wood does not hold a finish real well. Having tried Tung oil myself, I would recommend a polyurethane finish because it is harder.
 
No varnish!!

Don't use varnish. It will look good at first, but the longer it's handled the more it will look crap. Also, if it gets wet and water gets under a chip or ding in the finish, then it will start to screw up the varnish. Strip the stock. Then stain it as you want. Then use double boiled linseed oil OR as I did, use TUNG OIL. As each coat dries it will add another layer of sheen. And if it ever gets damaged looking, more Tung Oil with stain will clean it up. Tung Oil also protects the wood well. If you search you will find other threads about this. I will start my own soon on how I re-finished my Norc stock. (and the mistakes I made).
 
canadiangunuser said:
Don't use varnish. It will look good at first, but the longer it's handled the more it will look crap. Also, if it gets wet and water gets under a chip or ding in the finish, then it will start to screw up the varnish. Strip the stock. Then stain it as you want. Then use double boiled linseed oil OR as I did, use TUNG OIL. As each coat dries it will add another layer of sheen. And if it ever gets damaged looking, more Tung Oil with stain will clean it up. Tung Oil also protects the wood well. If you search you will find other threads about this. I will start my own soon on how I re-finished my Norc stock. (and the mistakes I made).
Click to expand...

I second that.
 
Ok thanks for the info. I think I will buy a new stock. Where can I buy the Boyds one? Can I order from the USA?

Also, is it the stock of the M1 Garant I must use or what?

Thanks alot :D
 
Why buy a new one? :) (besides the fact that chu is soft. I did this for practice, and it turned out great.) Birchwood Tru Oil.

m14_chu_full.jpg
 
It looks beautiful, excellent job!

the reason I recommend replacing, is that I beleive there is a difference between looking good and functioning. Do you shoot that rifle? I shot the hell out of mine after refinishing, and I got tired of the chu-splinters.


jackenape said:
Why buy a new one? :) (besides the fact that chu is soft. I did this for practice, and it turned out great.) Birchwood Tru Oil.

m14_chu_full.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I put a refinished maple USGI stock on mine. Turned a couple heads at the range yesterday as soon as she came out of the bag.
 
I am wondering about this too. I have a Boyd's so I haven't tried it, but Lee Valley Tools has some liquid marine epoxy which I think would work well.
 
Starscream said:
HAs anyone tried using an epoxy wood penetrator to stiffen up the chu wood stock?
Click to expand...

Personally, I have not. However I would be leery due to the unknown oil/white-mold propagating chemicals they have been soaking in. I suspect it could interfere with the epoxy.

I would be interested to hear from someone who has tried it, please post results.
 
Rutger said:
I would be leery due to the unknown oil/white-mold propagating chemicals they have been soaking in.
Click to expand...

Oh, I took all that surface oil out, left a nice dry stock. Started to sand it up a bit and underneath the dry skin was more oily garbage wood :mad:.

I finally sanded off all the oily crap wood to the truly dry wood, and worked up from there. Just have to be careful around the buttstock, as the metal won't be flush anymore if you're not careful.

I wouldn't bother putting any finish over an oil impregnated stock. Easy off or other treatments will only remove the oil on the surface.

Full write-up here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312085
 
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Geez, that explains how you can actually see wood-grain on your stock! Damn fine effort, that took work!

jackenape said:
Oh, I took all that surface oil out, left a nice dry stock. Started to sand it up a bit and underneath the dry skin was more oily garbage wood :mad:.

I finally sanded off all the oily crap wood to the truly dry wood, and worked up from there. Just have to be careful around the buttstock, as the metal won't be flush anymore if you're not careful.

I wouldn't bother putting any finish over an oil impregnated stock. Easy off or other treatments will only remove the oil on the surface.

Full write-up here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312085
Click to expand...
 
jackenape said:
Oh, I took all that surface oil out, left a nice dry stock. Started to sand it up a bit and underneath the dry skin was more oily garbage wood :mad:.

I finally sanded off all the oily crap wood to the truly dry wood, and worked up from there. Just have to be careful around the buttstock, as the metal won't be flush anymore if you're not careful.

I wouldn't bother putting any finish over an oil impregnated stock. Easy off or other treatments will only remove the oil on the surface.

Full write-up here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312085
Click to expand...


Wow! That is great!

Did you also sand of the inner part of the stocks where the metal from the receiver is or you left it untouched and just sanded the visible part of the stocks?
 
I stripped mine with trisodium phosphate (TSP). It tided me over until I got a GI walnut stock.
 
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