Rimfire Ballistic charts

Q. If your rifle is zeroed at 25 yd instead of 50 yd as in the figures, how do you adjust the drop at say 100 yd? (ie if the drop is 6" at 100 yds based on a 50 yd zero, how do you tell what the drop would be at 100 yd if you had zeroed at 25 yd? Or is there no difference. (22 LR high velocity).

Thanks.
 
prosper said:
drop.gif


blue=CCI Stinger
black=17 HMR
red=22 Hornet
purple=22-250

:D
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MMMMM 22/250. Me likes! Are they as accurate as the 17s?
 
I've been playing around with Chairgun 2 panel. Which is actually a program designed for airgun Field Target shooters.
It's so far seems to be giving me realistic information, although I had to take a bit of a guess at the BC of Winchester Dynapoints (using .125 for now)

I'm going to see if the clicks work out at the range tomorrow. By zeroing at 50m and then attempting a few shots out to 200m to test the balistics. It should require 90 clicks of elevation to make the shot.
Cheers,
Grant
 
Chart

Since we are talking inches vertically and yards horizontally, the almost vertical lines of the parabole can give the wrong idea that it's over at 200m. With the same unit on both axis, your enthusiasm gets a big boost !
If we design the next rimfire range like a Japanese golf range with several floors, the absolute theorical limit would be around a mile :)
 
Thank you so much for these charts. I was just talking to a salesman at bass pro about the differences between 22lr and 17. Really helps me out.
 
antonio1234 said:
Thank you so much for these charts. I was just talking to a salesman at bass pro about the differences between 22lr and 17. Really helps me out.
Click to expand...

Be sure that he actually gave you the correct information. Big stores like Bass Pro are full of clerks that don't know anything about guns or ballistics.
 
PGM449 said:
I assume that these are rifle specs how much would they change for pistols
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for pistol it would be hit and miss. For one, you wouldn't be able to shoot accurately that far thus making the question rather rethorical. Secondly, not all cartriges perform well in shorter barrels at all, velocities obtained from shorter barrel may vary wildly from cartridge to cartridge. As a broad generalisation I would say high velocity rounds (~1200fps) will become subsonic when shot from pistol. Say, use subsonic table for shooting blazers or CCI minimags - you get the idea. CCI standard velocity will fly at 900fps-ish, which is about 170 fps less then published.
 
I've been doing some 200 yard work with my .22lr, and I've been trying to see how far I can push it before I can't adjust the scope enough. I'm using a Tasco with mil-dots, and matching the dots with the impact of the round. So far, with .22lr at 1250ft/s, I'm hitting three dots high from the crosshair at 200 yards and two dots low at 200 yards. Didn't get the chance to shoot the CCI Velocitors, 40gr at 1435ft/s, at more than 100, but they're hitting four dots high at that range and if the wind's quiet, under 1.5" with 5 shots.

I've been using 40gr, as it's given me the best performance in accuracy, energy on target and drop. Sure the lower grain at faster speeds drop a bit less, but past 150 yards, I've noticed they've dropped MORE than the 40gr. Flat out to 100 yards, but they drop badly past that. Can't wait to take the Velocitors to 200yrds.

What I'm asking is, without changing much, can I get my .22lr rounds to hit at 300 yards without going under the fourth dot down from the reticule?
 
300yds is about 24minutes more drop that 200yds in my set-up. Thats about 6.5mils so quite a bit lower than your reticle goes.

Perhaps it's time to start using the turrets themselves as opposed to the reticle, it's a better system.
Cheers.
Grant
 
At that page:
A few hints to get ready:

1.If you can sight your rifle in at 35 yards to shoot 13.5 inches high you will be close at 300 yards.
2.If you can not adjust to 18 inches high a 0.003 shim under the rear scope ring will do it. Burris signature rings set with 0.015 down front and 0.015 up back is an elegant way to do this.
Click to expand...
 
Grantmac said:
300yds is about 24minutes more drop that 200yds in my set-up. Thats about 6.5mils so quite a bit lower than your reticle goes.

Perhaps it's time to start using the turrets themselves as opposed to the reticle, it's a better system.
Cheers.
Grant
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll see what I can do with a higher zero, as I don't have turrets, just the scope adjustments. Screwing the caps on an off and using a dime to adjust stuff doesn't seem worth it.

Thanks though, you got me on the right track.

Last question, what's the ammo that drops the LEAST in total at 300?
 
Couldn't feel any wind, but it was so cold, everything was freezing up. Hands, feet, hell, I didn't feel my face resting against the stock. Here's some pics of the target and my setup. Range doesn't go past 200, but it was nice practice anyhow. That BRNO still shoots more accurately than I do.



 
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