Precision rifle equipment

[rnbra-shooter]

Most levels that I have seen, need to be oriented when they are installed (they attach to the round scope tube, with a split ring). And to state something obvious, that isn't necessarily obvious: your bubble should read "level", when your scope's reticle is "level". Note that if it is more comfortable for you to install your scope on top of your rifle with a cant (in order to make it fit you better), that's fine; what matters is that when you shoot, your _reticle_ (not rifle!) is level...

If a bubble isn't level, it will still allow shot-to-shot repeatability (i.e., precision). Your shots at long range might be to the left (or right) of your true zero, but all the shots will be off by the same amount

If you really do need your bubble to be level (i.e. accurate), it's pretty straightforward to do. You set up a target, at any distance close enough that wind won't be a factor (e.g. 100 yards). Place an aiming mark at the bottom centre. Using either a level or a plumb line, draw a light vertical pencil line up through the middle of the target.

Then fire a few shots into your aiming mark, using your 100y sight setting. Then go to the highest elevation you will ever use (600y, 1,000y, etc), and fire a group. This group should land directly above your aiming mark, centred about the pencil line you drew. If not, something is awry - it could be your level's bubble is out of calibration, it could be that your scope isn't levelled properly, it could be that your scope's internal adjustments aren't actually producing a purely vertical displacement. Whatever the problem is, you need to find it and fix it, until dialling your scope up or down _only_ moves your group up or down.

(While you're at it, this exercise will also tell you other interesting things about your scope - such as, how much the bullet _actually_ moves, compared to what the markings on the scope knob might suggest)

 

[redman]

I am not sure what is a proprietary QD scope mount but when I was talking to ### - they can sell me a 34 mm TPS ring to mount my Horus device. I decided to go with 30 mm ring instead. I am guessing some other expensive scopes like S&B or US Optic uses 34 mm tube so 34 mm ring is available out there.
Give ### a shout. Joe was very helpful.

By proprietary I mean it's not two rings on a Picatinny rail, and by QD I mean that it's quick-detachable. The rings and base come all attached together and it looks like this:

Who's ###?

 

[lineofsight]

You could also go to the hardware store, for $1 buy a line level, pop out the level bubble, and epoxy it onto your scope rail, ring base, whatever (use another level to ensure base is level / calibrate bubble level).

 

[Solar]

By proprietary I mean it's not two rings on a Picatinny rail, and by QD I mean that it's quick-detachable. The rings and base come all attached together and it looks like this:

Who's ###?

I see. ### International (based out of Edmonton, AB) is where I bought my Horus Vision ASLI (Angle Slope Level Indicator). Joe ##### is the president, and I was talking to him on how to mount the ASLI onto the scope tube. That is when he mentions 34 mm TPS ring to mount the ASLI.
You can google them. I think they are ################.com

 

[Leeper]

A lot of today's scopes are long and roomy enough to allow the mounting of even more accessories. Along with the level and inclinometer, there would be no reason not to have a thermometer and, perhaps, an aneroid barometer. Temp and pressure certainly affects ballistics. A whistle would, by it's note and volume, indicate wind strength. Two whistle, facing in opposite directions and producing different notes would indicate wind direction. A bell would sound when the bolt was closed and could also signal the firing of a round; just in case one missed the muzzle report. Regards, Bill.

 

[redman]

You forgot the flip-up gravimeter, in case you're shooting at high altitude.

 

[Solar]

I think you guys forgot the laser guidance system. Remember seeing the rifle in "Fifth Element". Fire once at the target, hit replay and squeeze the trigger.

 

[zimbu]

You could also go to the hardware store, for $1 buy a line level, pop out the level bubble, and epoxy it onto your scope rail, ring base, whatever (use another level to ensure base is level / calibrate bubble level).

Here's my homemade one. Cost me about $2 at Princess Auto and hour to make it. Just crack my left eye and it's right there.

 

[redman]

^ Expertly done. Make more and sell them as an official "CGN product".

 

[zimbu]

^ Expertly done. Make more and sell them as an official "CGN product".

Thanks. Maybe one day in my spare time I will make more...

 

[ceriksson]

that IS a great idea. I shuddered at the price of the US optics one considering the simplicity of the design.

Using a cheap scope ring and a level tube from a broken level would definitely do the trick!

I just may have to try this

 

[redman]

Thanks. Maybe one day in my spare time I will make more...

...and don't forget to make a 34mm model for those of us with fine taste in terms of our optics!!

Once I get into longer range shooting, it might come in handy...

 

[Wally]

Here's my homemade one. Cost me about $2 at Princess Auto and hour to make it. Just crack my left eye and it's right there.

That is pretty slick!! What did you use for the pivot on the ring?

 

[zimbu]

That is pretty slick!! What did you use for the pivot on the ring?

It is 1/8" thick 7075-T6 aluminum angle with the pivot bolt hole reamed .0015" interference and the level hole reamed .0005 interference. I put a swab of 5min epoxy in the hole before inserting the level. The hole through the ring is reamed transition fit so it pivots freely. The upper side is milled off somewhat flat with a file and the lower side is spotfaced so the nut pivots freely.