probably a couple dumb questions

L

lpmartineau

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Hi everyone,

I want to step things up a notch but I have some questions which are probably stupid.

I have a Rem 700 sps varmint with a Elite 4200 tactical scope.

how do I figure out the clicks on the scope relative to the range?

I zeroed the scope to 100 yards and then I gently set the knobs to say 0.

I just purchased my first Ballistics calculator (was reading another thread)

I am going to program the software tonight for my rifle with a couple of my fav loads.

I am guessing at that point if the software says 8 clicks it really does mean 8 clicks as it uses the information I provided to calculate everything?

also how do I measure my scope height to input into the software? do I Take a ruler and go center of the glass?

Thanks

Luc
 
Learn to use MOA as your basis rather than number of clicks. If your going from 100 to 500 you will save yourself time by knowing how many MOA you need to come up rather than counting 20 or so "clicks"

Zero at 100 and resetting the turret to show "0" is a good idea, just make sure you remember what hash mark your 100y zero is on.

I know scope is measured to the middle of the glass but not sure whether it's from the middle of the bore (I assume it would be Center to Center).

So for Example, your Zeroed at 100y and you want to go to 500y. Your calculator shows that you need 6.3 MOA elevation. Your turret has 15 MOA of adjustment per revolution. You would dial in the UP from the 0 to the 6 plus 1 click = 6.25MOA which is as close to 6.3 as you can get.

The above is based on a scope with 1/4 MOA clicks.
 
Measure your scope's TRUE movement. Clamp down the rifle and put a ruler up at 100 yards. Measure how many clicks it takes to move your dot 1 inch and that will tell you how accurate the measurements are.

My leupolds and Nightforce are all bang-on. My weaver is 5 clicks to the minute, not the 8 clicks as advertised.
 
This is good stuff to know not a dumb question at all. I have one though. My scope makes 60 click / revolution of the knob is each click a MOA?

the numbers on the knob go up to 15 i think? so thats four click per...which would be 1/4MOA each click?

There is also a scale on the body of the scope that the knob edge moves past do I read this like a caliper or something?

Signed confused
 
15would be the number of minutes in a revolution on your scope. 60 clicks per rev. would work out to 1/4 min. per click, but as suggested put up a ruler or target face with one inch squares and check how many clicks to move it one inch. This requires the rifle be set in a solid rest.
 
mercuryv8 said:
This is good stuff to know not a dumb question at all. I have one though. My scope makes 60 click / revolution of the knob is each click a MOA?

the numbers on the knob go up to 15 i think? so thats four click per...which would be 1/4MOA each click?

There is also a scale on the body of the scope that the knob edge moves past do I read this like a caliper or something?

Signed confused
Click to expand...

Yes, that makes sense 15/60=.25 MOA. The scale below the turret simply gives you a reference point so you can find your 100yd zero after dialing up for a long shot. That way if you lose count of how many turns up or down you have dialed, you will not end up a whole turn out on your zero.
 
Luc, you're asking good questions (and getting some very good answers so far).

Exactly what model of scope do you have? Do you know how much movement it is supposed to have (either from its instruction book, or from the Bushnell web site). This is a good thing to find out, it can help you know ahead of time what range you'll be able to shoot, before you need to shim your scope.

It's a good idea to buy a small notebook, and always carry it with your rifle. In this you can make a record of every time you shoot - you can record the range, your score (if applicable), the kind of ammo you used, the elevation and windage settings, temperature, light, weather, etc.

Setting your scope's elevation knob to read "0" at some baseline setting (such as 100 yards/meters) is a good way to do it. It's a good idea to set the windage knob in the same manner. You'll want to be able to always return to this setting, with absoluter certainty, no matter how the scope has been adjusted. If you make a note (perhaps even a sketch) of what your knobs look like. Most scope adjustment systems have "hash marks", which count the number of full rotations.

A good way to record your knob settings, are to record the number of hash marks, and the number of minutes (whole numbers on the knob), plus the number of fractional minutes (usually either 1/4 minute clicks or 1/8 minute clicks). One common notation would be "2+0+0" for your 100y elevation setting (this would mean that you have two hash marks exposed, and zero full minutes, and zero quarters. You might find that your 600y elevation would be "2+12+3". which means you have the same two hash marks showing, plus twelve full minutes, plus 3 quarters.

Obtunded's point about measuring your scope's TRUE MOVEMENT is a good one. It doesn't matter much if you're only shooting out to 300 yards or so, but if you're going to shoot 600 or 1000 yards, things can get confusing if your scope's "minutes" are quite a bit different than you expect. An easy way to check this is to setp up a large piece of paper at 100 yards, and make a 1" black square near the bottom centre. Fire a group there, then raise your scope 20 or 30 "scope minutes" and fire another group. Measure how many inches higher the second group is - and use this to calibrate your scope's movements. You should also see that the second group is exactly above the first, it should not have moved left or right.
 
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