Here she is: 700 XCR Compacticle
- Thread starter Wally
- Start date
- Location
- Sudbury, On
Unless things have changed, I'll have to disagree. The Savage Accutrigger is the easiest, take the action out, turn screw to desired trigger-pull.
To the OP: Nice gun.
The trigger in the XCR and the trigger in the LTR are different. The XCR is externally adjustable.Unless things have changed, I'll have to disagree. The Savage Accutrigger is the easiest, take the action out, turn screw to desired trigger-pull.
To the OP: Nice gun.
Thanks. I'm happy with it (aside from the feed problem). We'll see how it shoots this weekend.
I just loaded up 52 hand loads.
Using Hornady 168gr Match BTHP, Hornady 168gr A-Max and 168gr Sierra Match Kings
It's all new, unfired Remington brass, Federal primers and Varget powder.
I loaded all of them to an OAL of 2.80" and the charges run from 43grns to 46grns in .5grn increments.
First sunny (and windless) day, I'll have a nice range report
Using Hornady 168gr Match BTHP, Hornady 168gr A-Max and 168gr Sierra Match Kings
It's all new, unfired Remington brass, Federal primers and Varget powder.
I loaded all of them to an OAL of 2.80" and the charges run from 43grns to 46grns in .5grn increments.
First sunny (and windless) day, I'll have a nice range report
OK, what did I learn today? 150grn factory hunting ammo SUCKS in my rifle.
I also learned that 44grs of Varget behind a 168grn Hornady match BTHP gives me the best group at this point.
Full range report to come.
I also learned that 44grs of Varget behind a 168grn Hornady match BTHP gives me the best group at this point.
Full range report to come.
That's not beer.....if you ever make it out here! tick tock tick tock!
BTW, you left beer stain on my bench last night
I like it! It seems well built, the turrets are smooth, glass is clear.
The only problem I have with it is the parallax adjustment. I felt like I was screwing around with it a lot and I couldn't get a good focus at 100yds on 14X... but maybe it's not designed to be used at 14X at 100yds? I think it's mostly user error and I'll have to get some tricks in the bag for using the parallax.
All in all, I'd say I'm quite happy with the investment in that scope. I would buy another one!
rnbra-shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Brunswick
It sucks in most other rifles too... ;-)
Now that's more like it!
Re: focus/parallax. Pay attention to what "Epoxy7" said above, he's exactly right.
Once you get your focus set up (it's pretty much a one-time adjustment), you can use some combination of masking tape, white-out, and a sharpie (depending on your artistic talents ;-) to make a few marks on your parallax knob. I'd suggest one line for what works best at 100y, another line for 25y, and another line for 400y+. You'll _never_ want to turn the parallax adjustment beyond this "infinity" setting, and you'll hardly ever need to turn it beyond the 25y setting.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ok. I was thrown off because adjusting the parallax does affect the focus and I didn't notice the focus under the rear flip up cap thingy.
So I adjust the focus first, then parallax? How do I know when my parallax is properly adjusted?
So the focus will work at all ranges without adjustmen? How do I properly set up the focus?
So I adjust the focus first, then parallax? How do I know when my parallax is properly adjusted?
So the focus will work at all ranges without adjustmen? How do I properly set up the focus?
Yours are in MOA right? The ones I have are in Metric. The parallax on mine had the distances marked. IE 10M, 15, 20, 25 etc. The easiest way to adjust your scope is to put up a target at a known distance that coresponds with the markings, for example 10 yards, 25 yards etc. Then put the scope on 14x. When you look at your parallax from behind the scope, you'll see a white dot on the body of the scope. When the mark on the parallax knob is lined up with the dot, you're at the right spot. Now you've taken out the parallax adjustment from the equation. So use the focus until it's perfectly clear. You can do this at any range, I just find it's easier up close since you can see if it's off very easily. This should work for you. You can always fine tune it later if you find it slightly off.
lineofsight
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lower Mainland, BC
Can also check parallax by shifting your head slightly / adjusting cheek weld - if change where cross hairs are then parallax is out (sometimes the markings on the adj. knob out a touch)
rnbra-shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Brunswick
Yes, adjust the focus first. Go read the scope manual, then come back here, then go read the scope manual again. It is pretty confusing to figure out what exactly you are supposed to be accomplishing when you are setting up your scope's focus.
Here's my best explanation. The focus adjustment is usually accomplished by screwing the eyepiece in or out, then locking it with a lock ring). Now pay close attention here, this is the non-obvious part: The goal of adjusting a scope's focus, is to bring the crosshairs into focus. And that's it - no more, and no less. This is actually a much trickier task than it sounds like, because if your eye sees anything else in addition to the crosshair, it might tend to focus on that, or "split the difference" in focus between the image and the crosshair.
Knowing this might help you understand why scope manuals will tell you to focus your scope against a dull featureless overcast sky, or to only briefly glimpse into the scope. You want to have your scope focused on the crosshair, and the crosshair only, without your eyes providing some focus adjustment (your eyes can do this, but they will be strained, and you won't be able to comfortably hold your crosshair in focus for an extended period of time).
Yes, see above. Once you understand that the scope's focus adjustment is *NOT* for making the target clear, but rather solely for the purpose of making the crosshair clear, it starts to make sense.
Now, after a scope's focus has been set, you will find that targets at different ranges tend to be in or out of focus. And if you set up your rifle in a steady rest, and you move your eye up and down or side to side, without moving the rifle, you will see that the crosshair might tend to move relative to the target. This is *PARALLAX*.
You adjust parallax with either the front bell adjustment, or the knob on the left of the scope. You should find that when the target is at its clearest, that the parallax goes to zero (meaning, that the crosshair does not move relative to the target, as you move your eye to any position within the scope's field of view).
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I have almost an identical looking setup, lol. Only difference is mine .223 and I have a Harris 9-13" swivel, and Burris Sig Zee rings, lol.
They're a great looking rifle. I'm really liking it so far, haven't had a chance to do any load testing yet though. I've got some 69 SMK, and 75 Amaxs to try with Varget powder.
After being used to the accutrigger I was kind of worried about what this new Remmy trigger was going to be like. It's great, I was nicely surprised with the trigger. Only thing is it doesn't have the added safety the Savage has when set very light so you have to be a little more conscious of it.
They're a great looking rifle. I'm really liking it so far, haven't had a chance to do any load testing yet though. I've got some 69 SMK, and 75 Amaxs to try with Varget powder.
After being used to the accutrigger I was kind of worried about what this new Remmy trigger was going to be like. It's great, I was nicely surprised with the trigger. Only thing is it doesn't have the added safety the Savage has when set very light so you have to be a little more conscious of it.
Good stuff guys.
There were a few things I forgot to mention or took for granted (moving your head to the side to determine parallax for example). Thanks Line of sight
rnbra-shooter,
The Falcon scopes don't come with an instruction manual. So the info here is probably pretty helpful
Just to add with eye fatigue, the crosshair will can actually disappear from view. I had this happen during training when I was being taught on the .308 Winchester. The scope wasn't set up properly.
There were a few things I forgot to mention or took for granted (moving your head to the side to determine parallax for example). Thanks Line of sight
rnbra-shooter,
The Falcon scopes don't come with an instruction manual. So the info here is probably pretty helpful
Just to add with eye fatigue, the crosshair will can actually disappear from view. I had this happen during training when I was being taught on the .308 Winchester. The scope wasn't set up properly
.Oh man, Thanks guys!! Totally did not know that the focus was for the cross hair. Yeah, no manual with this scope!
I just went and focused it against the sky. The one thing I noticed is that the cross hair will not go fuzzy until i unscrew the focus all the way. It's kinda tricky to focus properly but I think I've got it!
This is what my parallax knob looks like.... there's no dot on the body and no graduations.
I just went and focused it against the sky. The one thing I noticed is that the cross hair will not go fuzzy until i unscrew the focus all the way. It's kinda tricky to focus properly but I think I've got it!
This is what my parallax knob looks like.... there's no dot on the body and no graduations.
rnbra-shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Brunswick
The "infinity" sighn visible at the top of the knob indicates the parallax setting that will bring the reticle into the optical infinity plane. The "inclined plane" sort of shallow triangle is where you would turn the knob for closer-than-infinity settings.
I would not bet that the parallax knob is properly calibrated. If you remove the Allen (Torx?) screw holding the knob on, it should come straight off. It will hopefully register via a finely splined shaft. You can orient the knob (within one spline's worth) however you want.
So, if you can bench your rifle, and point it at something at least 500m away (a tree on the horizon works well), you can zero out the parallax for infinity. Then remove the knob, and reinstall it so that it reads "infinity" at this setting.
Even if you are able to turn the knob past the "infinity" setting, this will never be useful (try it; you'll see that the crosshair is effectively "behind" the target, even a target at 1000 yards - i.e. if you move your eye up, the crosshair will appear to move up relative to the target). One other interesting thing about focusing a scope "beyond infinity" is that the direction of the mirage will reverse.... try this too!
Anyhow, with "infinity" properly set, the next most significant setting to determine is 100 yards. Figure out where that is on the knob, and mark it if you wish.
I would not bet that the parallax knob is properly calibrated. If you remove the Allen (Torx?) screw holding the knob on, it should come straight off. It will hopefully register via a finely splined shaft. You can orient the knob (within one spline's worth) however you want.
So, if you can bench your rifle, and point it at something at least 500m away (a tree on the horizon works well), you can zero out the parallax for infinity. Then remove the knob, and reinstall it so that it reads "infinity" at this setting.
Even if you are able to turn the knob past the "infinity" setting, this will never be useful (try it; you'll see that the crosshair is effectively "behind" the target, even a target at 1000 yards - i.e. if you move your eye up, the crosshair will appear to move up relative to the target). One other interesting thing about focusing a scope "beyond infinity" is that the direction of the mirage will reverse.... try this too!
Anyhow, with "infinity" properly set, the next most significant setting to determine is 100 yards. Figure out where that is on the knob, and mark it if you wish.
