Norcarev m213

conscript88

conscript88

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I'm new to pistols and i just got my first one, the norinco m213 tokarev. So my question is, can you rack the slide when theres no loaded mag in?(i haven't tried that but it's the only asumption i can make) I can't slide it back unless the hammer is pulled back. The manual is utterly useless.

thanks in advance
 
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Mag and slide racking have nothing in common, the M213 has a hammer/slide that makes it hard to cycle, putting a mag in it won't change that.

The easy way is you need to #### the hammer first then pull the slide, the hard way is to rack the slide with a dropped hammer.
 
furet said:
Mag and slide racking have nothing in common, the M213 has a hammer/slide that makes it hard to cycle, putting a mag in it won't change that.

The easy way is you need to #### the hammer first then pull the slide, the hard way is to rack the slide with a dropped hammer.
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oh ok, so it's just really hard to rack it with the hammer down? why is that?
 
Hammer and slide angle, hammer spring tension, roughness of the parts rubbing together....

The design of the recoil system takes into account this heavy tension between slide & hammer, likele reducess the size of the recoil spring. It all has to do with the physics of the design. The slide has to recoil under the pressure generated by the firing of the ammo, it needs to go far enough back to eject the round and load another, but not far enough that it slame real hard at the end of travel.

So recoil spring, slide weight, hammer tension all play a role in this.
The same happens on a Browning HP in 40, very hard to cycle the slide with the hammer down. A Glock is very easy, cus it has no hammer..

Hope that helps, I am not a gunsmith but that is a summary of my AFAIK and observations.
 
there's several excellent strip/whatever manuals on the net- some even have pictures- just type in tokarev in the search engine and go from there- as to being very hard to rack the slide, it happens on the type 54 as well-about 10x easier with the hammer cocked makes me wonder if it wasn't designed like that
 
Yeah in my quest to find to find the problem(which doesnt' really exist) I also found out that the sear spring can be a real bugger to get back in place.

Actually i've noticed It slips out of place quite easily, anyone else notice that?
 
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EEJayde said:
Haven't disassembled to the sear spring level, so I'm no help there.
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I didn't plan on it today but it popped out so I had to dig in for some repairs.
thanks for the links


Also I don't know if i made myself clear on the first post, But I quite literally can not rack the slide with the hammer down. It is locked in there solid.
 
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Mine's hit or miss. Sometimes I can rack it with the hammer down (using a judicious amount of force), others it just won't budge at all. From what I gather, that's pretty much standard for this pistol. I've given up trying now and just #### the hammer first every time.
 
EEJayde said:
Mine's hit or miss. Sometimes I can rack it with the hammer down (using a judicious amount of force), others it just won't budge at all. From what I gather, that's pretty much standard for this pistol. I've given up trying now and just #### the hammer first every time.
Click to expand...

Yeah after screwing aorund a bit i can too, but the hammer seems to be half ####, just looks like it's down.(i think those are the right words)
 
I solved the hard racking problem on both of mine. If you look at the corner on the back of the firing pin housing you'll see that it's quite square and has been badly beveled as a distant after thought. On all my other semi pistols this corner is a much larger radius and is nicely rounded and smooth. So I used a small flat jeweller's file and a small slip stone to reshape and smoothen it. Both of them rack from hammer down as nicely as my CZ or 1911 now.

Due to the metal shavings from the filing if you want to do this to your own I heartily recomend punching out the pin to remove the firing pin and spring. You want to round the corner and smoothen it so it has about a .08 to .09 inch radius or so that the curvature looks like the body of a 5/32 to 3/16 drill bit if that makes more sense. The bigger the rounding the easier it is to rack from hammer down but you don't want to go any bigger than the .09 inch radius. While you're at it stone the sharp edge of the rounded portion of the hammer just enough to break the razor edge. This is a "just in case" so it won't scratch the running surface of the slide track or your fingers later on when working with it.
 
conscript88 said:
I'm new to pistols and i just got my first one, the norinco m213 tokarev. So my question is, .......................................... manual is utterly useless. thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Got the M213 last week Thursday. Lots of great advise on methods to smoothen this pistol's overall action. Being $99, it is a bit rough. After a general cleaning, manually cycled the slide about 100 times on Friday with some dabs of break free on the rail to help smoothen the action prior to any mods or polishing. Proceeded to the range on Sat. and fired 4 clips of reloads. Fortunately, no FTE nor FTL. Will put another 100 or more rounds this Sat. to observe whether it is continuing to "seat" properly.
Unless one has prior experience with metal work, its best to seek a pro's assistance. Remember that most of the guys who work on their firearms, know what they are doing and possess the correct tools. With our guns, having more metal in the wrong places is much better than having less. This scenario allows for further corrections but it has to be done properly to assure it continues to operate without jeopardizing safety.
BTW, its accuracy was a pleasant surprise. Not as great as a Sig 226 but then again the Sig doesn't shoot 10'xs better (price being 10'xs more). Shoot and enjoy it!!:dancingbanana:
 
EEJayde said:
Mine's hit or miss. Sometimes I can rack it with the hammer down (using a judicious amount of force), others it just won't budge at all. From what I gather, that's pretty much standard for this pistol. I've given up trying now and just #### the hammer first every time.
Click to expand...

I fixed my Chinese crap by refinishing the slide... works nice now... no such problems with Russian TT
 
Rottboy_8 said:
Got the M213 last week Thursday. Lots of great advise on methods to smoothen this pistol's overall action. Being $99, it is a bit rough. After a general cleaning, manually cycled the slide about 100 times on Friday with some dabs of break free on the rail to help smoothen the action prior to any mods or polishing. Proceeded to the range on Sat. and fired 4 clips of reloads. Fortunately, no FTE nor FTL. Will put another 100 or more rounds this Sat. to observe whether it is continuing to "seat" properly.
Unless one has prior experience with metal work, its best to seek a pro's assistance. Remember that most of the guys who work on their firearms, know what they are doing and possess the correct tools. With our guns, having more metal in the wrong places is much better than having less. This scenario allows for further corrections but it has to be done properly to assure it continues to operate without jeopardizing safety.
BTW, its accuracy was a pleasant surprise. Not as great as a Sig 226 but then again the Sig doesn't shoot 10'xs better (price being 10'xs more). Shoot and enjoy it!!:dancingbanana:
Click to expand...

:agree: That exactly what I did, Good cleaning, good oil and it become smoother, then rack it a LOT and now it's smooth as it can be, I have no problem rack it with hammer being down, prolly about 500 rounds now never fail no FTF, FTE, no chambering problem even with 147grain bootcut.
So far it's more reliable then my G17 and way more accurate on distance of 25 yards then G17 and it's just $99
 
edyshok said:
:agree: That exactly ........reliable then my G17 and way more accurate on distance of 25 yards then G17 and it's just $99
Click to expand...

Looks like we all have a decent shooter. Just needs some TLC to make her perform!!! Find the grip narrow and short, though. Cousin from the US sent me a Hogue HandAll (regular size) which makes it feel much more comfortable. Will try it tomorrow at the range and post the results.:runaway:
But with regards to your G17, its a very good piece and should be able to out-shoot a lot of 9mm's. Suggestion, next time you're at the range, have a buddie or RO shoot and group your G17. Compare the results. The double trigger and/or double action may be throwing you off.:cheers:
NorincoM213TokarevwithHogueHandAllT.jpg
 
BCRider said:
I solved the hard racking problem on both of mine. If you look at the corner on the back of the firing pin housing you'll see that it's quite square and has been badly beveled as a distant after thought. On all my other semi pistols this corner is a much larger radius and is nicely rounded and smooth. So I used a small flat jeweller's file and a small slip stone to reshape and smoothen it. Both of them rack from hammer down as nicely as my CZ or 1911 now.

Due to the metal shavings from the filing if you want to do this to your own I heartily recomend punching out the pin to remove the firing pin and spring. You want to round the corner and smoothen it so it has about a .08 to .09 inch radius or so that the curvature looks like the body of a 5/32 to 3/16 drill bit if that makes more sense. The bigger the rounding the easier it is to rack from hammer down but you don't want to go any bigger than the .09 inch radius. While you're at it stone the sharp edge of the rounded portion of the hammer just enough to break the razor edge. This is a "just in case" so it won't scratch the running surface of the slide track or your fingers later on when working with it.
Click to expand...

Thats what i was thinking of doing, only i haven't built up the balls for it quite yet.
 
Rubber grips

*UPDATE*

I wired the money today and was told it can take over a week to clear. I have decided to start with the rubber grips only at this time since shipping costs had an impact. Once this transaction is successful I will most likely be placing the order for the walnut grips soon after. Please be patient with me. When I have them in, email me your order and I will reply with an invoice and the method of payment. My bank does not allow EMT, I have found an alternative that is just as easy. I will only accept orders once I have them.

Cheers
 
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