.300 Savage

Walnutz

Walnutz

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Langley B.C.
I just got my hands on a Model 99 .300 savage in mint conditon with a older bushnell scope on it.Im sure i will use this for the odd deer hunt and just wondering if anyone has an opinion on what kind of bullet and weight is best for this gun.Thanks
 
I did not have the best results with 180 gr bullets. I would suggest no heavier than 165 if you reload.

But this gun is the bomb with 150's. How long is the barrel?
 
Walnutz said:
I just got my hands on a Model 99 .300 savage in mint conditon with a older bushnell scope on it.Im sure i will use this for the odd deer hunt and just wondering if anyone has an opinion on what kind of bullet and weight is best for this gun.Thanks
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The 150 Hornady was very accurate in the 300 Savage's I have owned, I also had good luck with 130 grain Hollow Point Speer's for small deer and varmints.
 
Win 748-42gr/150gr bullet,165gr-41gr +40gr -180gr bullet All shot MOA out of my Sav 99at 100 yards...........Harold *******use at own risk
 
I found my best results were with 150gr Accubonds, I know you don't need those expensive bullets for the velocities but they are very accurate and kill deer. I would assume the ballistic tip in the same weight would shoot just as well. I also used 150 gr partitions and they are almost as accurate in my 99 and I had a bang flop on a large doe @ 60 yards quartering away through the liver and lungs. It was only one deer that I killed with the partitions so not much of a test but I wouldn't shy away from them in the future. I have 165gr Accubonds but they seem to be shooting like S H I T from my 99 but I haven't played too much with that load yet.
 
SuperCub; Most tang cracks are caused by negligence. Wood shrinks over time and the front shoulders of the stock where they butt against the receiver will eventually set back from recoil, shrinking of the wood, softening of the wood from gun oil etc. The negligence comes to play when the owner doesn't see that the small amount of clearance required at the tangs has disappeared. When this happens it is necessary to re-establish that bit of space. A bit of work with scrapers does the trick. Dremels are not suggested as suitable.

It doesn't hurt a bit to remove the stock, clean out any oil that the wood may have absorbed ( paste of acetone and whiting applied and allowed to draw the oil out) and re-seal the wood with a bit of epoxy or glass bed compound. Then make sure you have a small bit of clearance at the back of the upper and lower round tang ends. Once the upper tang comes in contact with the wood it is only a matter of time until it splits or chips out. The lower tang also needs a small amount of clearance or it prevents the draw bolt from pulling the stock squarely up to the receiver shoulders. Any rounded rear facing metal surface can impart a wedging action to the wood.
 
stocker said:
SuperCub; Most tang cracks are caused by negligence. Wood shrinks over time and the front shoulders of the stock where they butt against the receiver will eventually set back from recoil, shrinking of the wood, softening of the wood from gun oil etc. The negligence comes to play when the owner doesn't see that the small amount of clearance required at the tangs has disappeared. When this happens it is necessary to re-establish that bit of space. A bit of work with scrapers does the trick. Dremels are not suggested as suitable.

It doesn't hurt a bit to remove the stock, clean out any oil that the wood may have absorbed ( paste of acetone and whiting applied and allowed to draw the oil out) and re-seal the wood with a bit of epoxy or glass bed compound. Then make sure you have a small bit of clearance at the back of the upper and lower round tang ends. Once the upper tang comes in contact with the wood it is only a matter of time until it splits or chips out. The lower tang also needs a small amount of clearance or it prevents the draw bolt from pulling the stock squarely up to the receiver shoulders. Any rounded rear facing metal surface can impart a wedging action to the wood.
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Thanks. Sounds a bit like the stock cracks on old Mausers at the tang.

.
 
Camper said:
I found my best results were with 150gr Accubonds, I know you don't need those expensive bullets for the velocities but they are very accurate and kill deer. I would assume the ballistic tip in the same weight would shoot just as well. I also used 150 gr partitions and they are almost as accurate in my 99 and I had a bang flop on a large doe @ 60 yards quartering away through the liver and lungs. It was only one deer that I killed with the partitions so not much of a test but I wouldn't shy away from them in the future. I have 165gr Accubonds but they seem to be shooting like S H I T from my 99 but I haven't played too much with that load yet.
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I feel that 300 Savage ballistics make an awesome deer hunting cartridge.

Little info for you on bonded core bullets...

Due to the heat used in the bonding process the bonded bulletsAccubonds actually expand faster then non-bonded bullets even at lower velocities so you have really picked one of the best bullet designs available for 300 Savage velocities.

I shoot a wildcat called 308Bellm in my T/C Contender carbine out of the 21" barrel I get an average of 2620fps which is almost exactly the same as 300 Savage velocities.

I shot this buck @ 210 yards last Nov with it I was shooting 150gr Rem Core loc bullets @ 2620fps.

The deer was facing towards me the bullet entered the left front chest took out both lungs went thru the liver exited the off side rib cage breaking the right front leg deer made it a max of 50 yards before it dropped.

375RUM_420_and_460_yard_Shots_Nov_28_2008_Buck_015.jpg
 
For accuracy tuning a dob of glass bedding at the fore end tip and playing with the stock screw brought mine into MOA.................Harold
 
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