Marstar M14 Aluminum chassis

My norinco did not want to fit at first either. If you look at the reciever on each side, you may notice on yours that the part that goes into the stock is not milled at a perfect 90 degrees....there is a slight curve at the 90. The problem lays in that the aluminum stock is milled at 90, so the reciever cannot seat completely. Do not use a dremel....take a fine file and slightly bevel the edge of the stock inlet on each side just untli the reciever goes all the way in........very very little metal removal is required, and in no way alters function.

I wish I could post a photo of what I mean, but I'm afraid I'm away working.




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yep --

Some norc receivers are out of spec - my early ones were all flat.

Some I have are flat - at 90 , and some bevelled.

Depending on how far from flat - you can get away without grinding by using a heel shim.

I also slightly filed one receiver flat , that was just a tad out and it worked fine , but it did need a very thin heel shim to shoot better -
 
On a side note, I had 0 trouble putting my Norinco M14S into a Troy MCS... once the flash hider came off, it all just popped in place really easily, tightened all the nuts and bolts, and there is no wiggle or shift.
 
Well, it would appear that Chicom M14 will not drop in to the Marstar stock without grinding through the hardcoat anodizing. not good........
 
No grinding.......a little light stock edge beveling for some with a file. It will not affect function and you cannot see it anyway.
 
Any chance of pics? Got my stock today and she won't fit. I don't even know how the curved ferrule is supposed to mate to the flat front of the stock :/
 
I would also like to see pics. I've been thinking about getting one of these. In the pics that I have seen, it looks like the pistol grip is to far away from the trigger.

DR
 
THE STOCK FERRULE DOES NOT FIT THE FRONT OF THE AKM STOCK.

THE ORIGINAL FERRULE IS REMOVED FROM THE BARREL, AND YOU USE THE LITTLE ROUND WASHER THAT COMES WITH THE STOCK, AND YOU FREE FLOAT THE BARREL WITH THE INCLUDED OP ROD GUIDE THAT SCREWS TO THE STOCK WITH THE TWO INCLUDED SCREWS!!!!!!!!!!

Don't they include some instructions with the stock??
 
My AKM stock is awaiting an appointment with Mr. Chopsaw for a shave. The AKM stocks are IMHO, the best handling of the munimula stocks, because they balance better for me, and seem to have less weight forward [ less muzzle heavy ] than most. The Chop Mod variants are even better ... and of course, for perfect balance, no one in his right mind would use anything but a SHORTY M14 in his custom stock, right??.

My AKM stock with YHM tubular butt stock weighs only a few ounces more than one of my GI Fiberglass stocks made into the LAZ side folder.
And that is before the date with Mr Chopsaw.

PS: I am working on a FUGLY but functional stock design that uses the receiver bedding portion of a fiberglass GI stock, the full floating op rod guide from an AKM stock, a few inches of munimula channel, and a whole lot of kevlar cloth, foam and epoxy, to duplicate the effectiveness of those munimula stocks, at a whole lot of less $$$.

Of course, some assembly and some DIY skills will be required, but when I finish the prototype, I'll post the PICs.

Meanwhile, exciting times here on Fantasy Island, as I made such a nuisance of myself at work, that they actually paid me to go away.
YEP, LAZ 1 is now officially retired ... with a fairly nice buy out package.
YOURTAX$$@WORK!
[;{)
So now I have time, money, and ambition all in the same pile, and I can start working full time on my hobbies, of which gunsmiting is only one.

So expect some new DIY projects posted on CGN.

First up ...the SAGE KILLER M14 stock.
Next up ... a HERA type Glock stock made from mumimula tubing.
[;{)
LAZ 1
 
I guess that no one is going to post pics of a fitted Marstar M14 stock, oh well, a picture really does speak 10000 words..........
 
I looked through the Marstar pics [which I have seen before] and I did not see any pictures of the modifications [grinding, filing, milling, Dremel tool] work that some are saying is needed to fit that stock to a Chinese M14.

Are they a pure drop in fit with no modifications [grinding, filing, milling, Dremel tool] work needed?

If modifications are needed [grinding, filing, milling, Dremel tool] I would like to pictures of the Grinding, Filing, Milling, Dremel tool work that is needed to fit this stock to a Chinese M14. That is what I have been asking for all along.
 
Sorry guys, my work tour got extended by a week and I'll be home tonight. I'll get some pictures up either tonight or tomorrow morning. The fitting for the stock is very simple, so don't hold off buying one if you have the opportunity.
 
Alright guys, here is the photos you wanted of fitting a Norinco M305 to an AKM stock.


Take your rifle out of it's original stock and disassemble the front end to remove the ferrule and replace the Op-rod guide for the one that comes with the kit. Set your rifle into the new AKM stock......you will most likely find that it does not seat properly. Yours might be different than mine, but all 4 of my M305's are the same. I don't have access to a Springfield reciever to see if they have the same issue.

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Look at the photos below of an inverted M305 reciever at the area where I am holding the toothpick. The 90 degree corner in the reciever is not milled at 90 degrees, it is a radiused corner and this is where is hangs up on the AKM stock, as the AKM does not componsate for this in it's design.


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Now take a good look at your AKM stock at the inside edge of the reciever inlet......that inside edge is going to have to get filed to a slight bevel to match the contour of the reciever area outlind in the above photos. All my rifles hang up from the lugs forward, and that is the area you will be working. You will be only removing a few thou worth of metal so it is important that you file evenly along the whole edge at a 45 degree angle to make the bevel cut. You may want to use masking tape to protect the surrounding area. Do not, I repeat, do not go crazy with the file!!! File only a few thou, then set your reciever in place and check for fit. Take your time, but the whole process can be done in a half hour.


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The areas that you remove metal from do not affect function and are hidden when assembled, so you do not have to worry about that, just cosmetics, and even those flaws are hidden under the reciever. When done properly your reciever should be flush to the stock from front to back.


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Assemble the rest of your rifle and go shooting now.

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