Is this a part that should be moving?

chemo

chemo

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I was prepping my m14 for unitizing and I found that the part higlighted in the picture, rotated around a bit too much and the kind of rivet that was holding it in place broke and fell.

Should I replace the rivet? or leaving it moving freely is okay?

 
If I'm thinking of the right part you should replace the roll pin and try and make it tight as possible. Hungry showed me how to drive one roll pin inside another to really tighten it up. Ever take one of his courses?
 
This is the oprod guide. It really doesn't matter for proper operation. My orginal TRW M14 had one that was quite loose and it shot quite well (when we were still allowed to bring it to the range :mad: ). However, if you want to wring maximum accuracy out of your M1A/M305/M14S, it should be tight. A new roll pin might do the trick. The US Army/Marine armourers used to knurl the barrel underneath the oprod guide to tighten it up for match grade M14's (among other tricks of the trade). I have successfully tightened this part up by means of epoxing it to the barrel. Of course, you cannot easily remove it after that ;). It seems to work for me though and hasn't moved after firing about a 1000 or rounds.
 
man roll pins, do I have to craft em myself?


and no i havent followed any hungry course nor did I check the videos, well I checked one but couldnt see shiet
 
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No splines on this part of the barrel Grizz. Lightly peening the area of the barrel all the way around using a sharp centre punch will tighten up the op rod guide quite nicely. Although Rifledude's was loose they are not really supposed to be, tighter is better.

Scott
 
m39a2 said:
No splines on this part of the barrel Grizz. Lightly peening the area of the barrel all the way around using a sharp centre punch will tighten up the op rod guide quite nicely. Although Rifledude's was loose they are not really supposed to be, tighter is better.

Scott
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I don't trust this method :D
any way I can find or make appropriate roll pnis?
 
The method has been used by M-14 armorers for roughly 50 years or so, seems to have worked well all that time. Krieger uses no roll pin at all, they loctite all of the fixtures to thier barrels with green (Hydrolic) loctite including the gas cylinder.
Any time you drive a tight pin under or above a barrel you are creating some microscopic distortion in the bore of the rifle. I usually remove the pins from AR match rifles I build and simply green loctite the front sight housing to the barrel. I have never had a problem with this method with either the AR series or the M-14 series.

Scott
 
m39a2 said:
No splines on this part of the barrel Grizz. Lightly peening the area of the barrel all the way around using a sharp centre punch will tighten up the op rod guide quite nicely. Although Rifledude's was loose they are not really supposed to be, tighter is better.

Scott
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Yer right Scott. My mistake. Had the gas block confused with the Op-Rod guide in terms of spline location. I actually had to pull my M305 out of the case and pull it out of the stock to look at it once you mentioned it. I snugged my op-rod guide up with some doubled up roll pins.
 
i found the notch for the roll pin on the barrel a larger diamater than the pin itself, i used a flat punch, tapped the edge of the notch drawing in some material, took some force to replace the roll pin but everthing works great now,
 
if you have a princess auto in your area you can find a roll pin kit with a hundred or so different roll pins for 4 bucks. I'm not sure which one is the correct but one will fit inside the norc one tightly.

I also peened mine slightly when I had mine apart as well.
 
The outter spring pin (roll pin) is 1/8" X 3/4" long, then drive a 5/64" X 1/2" long spring pin in the middle of that one and drive them both flush to the side of the op-rod guide. Your looseness issue is over. Peening the barrel a bit will also help.
 
what's peening anyway?

I'm sure I'd know right ahead in french, but for now I have no clue
 
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