getting my first O/U, do's and don'ts?

D

darko

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Getting a Beretta 686 (hopefully in the next few days should be here) and Im just wondering what some common dos and donts might be. Things to avoid doing, anything to keep in mind when assembling or disassembling, etc. Im reading through a Beretta O/U manual and its mentioning stuff like not to dry fire without snapcaps, to make sure that the gun is decocked before storage, to tap the buttstock (?) when decocking in order to be able to decock both barrels, etc.

So yeah, anything you guys can dish out let me know.

Thanks

edit: if anyone can provide a link to download a 686-specific manual I'd appreciate it - the manual I have is broad and seems to cover much older model Beretta shotguns
 
Tapping on the buttstock is to reset the inertia trigger. The second barrel is reset by the recoil of the first shot.

You should also ensure that you grease the hinge pins to prevent wear and clean and replace the old lubricant after each outing. Any light grease will do. STOS is a very popular grease for over/unders.
 
Congrats on the new acquisition!

Further to what has been stated, as is the case with new breechloading shotguns things are gonna be very tight.

Therefore, it is completely normal that the top lever shall remain positioned at the far right with the shotgun closed. Depending on usage, the lever will gradually start to shift towards the centre but that may take a long time and thousands of spent shells :) Please don't force the lever to move from it's original position :).

When that o/u is taken apart, you may note a small protuberance on the breechface...a bit to the left from the top firing pin ..... depressing that projection while very slightly exerting pressure on the top lever (towards the right) will serve to release the tension of the springs. Subsequently, you will note that the top lever has then come to rest at it's usual position but still to the right.... because the gun is new, however, with some new guns it can also come to rest at the centre. Once the firearm has been reassembled, the lever will revert to it's usual position at the right.

Moreover, in terms of proper maintenance practise, it would be best to always gently ease the fore end on and off the bbls without applying force.
 
All great advice, and here is one more piece that some shooters do and it makes others cringe.
DO NOT slam the action closed!
There is no need, the better quality guns usually close with as little as one finger lifting the barrels to lock up the action!
I make a habit of cleaning the old grease off each time, and applying new grease if i am shooting all day.
make sure the gun gets wiped down well if it gets wet, or it will rust!
Cat
 
Choke tubes ... lube them lightly and snug them in firmly, but not "white-knuckled" into place. I make a habit of backing mine out a turn when I'm finished for the day, especially on hot days. In hot, humid weather, they don't take much (without lube) to start a little corrosion. You definitely don't want them to seize into place. And always, always, check them to see they're snug before you start to shoot each time.

The Beretta Optima extended chokes tend to loosen up a little as you shoot ... I just got in the habit of checking them at the beginning of each staion in Sporting, and two or three times while going round the Skeet field. Optima flush and Mobil chokes tend to stay put a little better.

Give the choke tubes a good cleaning every 5 or 6 flats of shells ... it's easier to get the threads cleaned up and any plastic build-up out if you don't let it go too long.
 
Hey thanks guys thats some good info. The gun is actually used so i don't have to worry about breaking it in. It was a bit of an impulse buy (couldn't say no to the price) and I didn't even ask what all it comes with... looks to be a few chokes in the package and what-not.

What kind of choke would I want to use for trap anyway?
 
darko said:
What kind of choke would I want to use for trap anyway?
Click to expand...


You now have 2 tubes, so you can have 2 different chokes at the ready, depending upon what games you are playing.

Usually, the more open choke is in the bottom barrel, and the tighter choke on top... I don't know that it matters so much.

For singles trap from 16yds I usually use a modified or improved modified.
From way back, I might go to a full choke. For doubles I go with mod and full. Different combination again for sporting clays or skeet.
Different again for your particular hunting situations too. But there's no "right" way - you need to get rounds downrange and learn what works best for you, and to see how your chokes pattern.

Have fun! :)
 
Darko, are you the guy that bought that 686 that was been sold on the EE
for about 1/2 price or less the other day?:cool: Lucky sob if so.
I wonder how many reply the seller got on that one?
One thing you can do to lessen dry firing is when you shot your last shells
for the day and want to take it down, is to remover the fore wood before
you eject the spent rounds, with the foreend off, the gun will not #### the hammers. Mind you , at a range, that may be a problem??????????
Marshall
 
Honestly Im expecting it to be in a condition that makes it worth what I paid for it... so anything more is gonna be a pleasant surprise. If the barrels and action look decent and the gun shoots straight I'll be happy. Probably won't be a looker though!
 
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