Glock takedown with NY1 kit

Onagoth

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Have you guys noticed any trouble when stripping a glock with this trigger spring installed??

After I installed mine, I noticed that when pulling the slide back 1/2", and depressing the take down lever, the trigger kicks out again right away blocking the slide from sliding off.

Typically, I just pull the trigger back again and wiggle the slide past the locking block, but it wasn't like this with the factory spring installed.

Am I the only one?
 
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Grip the gun, move the slide just out of battery, pull down and hold the slide lock lever, then pull the trigger and move the slide forward and off.

At least that works for me.

Actually I think what you're doing is moving the slide too far back. It only needs to move back less than 1/8".
 
I don't think its that, the trigger resets the second I push the slide forward, regardless how far I pull it back when depressing the take down lever.

I don't think its a botched installation, i think it just has to do with the NY trigger spring having a shorter reset. I will probably try installing the original spring to see if it still does it.

Its not a big deal, its just now stripping the gun takes 3 seconds instead of 2 because I have to fiddle with the trigger.
 
I had the same problem on my stock Glock,I had some debris between the trigger bar and the connector,causing the trigger bar to hang up on the firing pin,the debris was not allowing the trigger bar to drop all the way down.

BTW,hopefully I have used the proper part names!
 
Attempting to remove the slide is more difficult now, as it hangs up.

The increased trigger spring pressure pushing up on the cruciform portion of the trigger bar, causes it to raise itself up, keeping contact with the f/p lug.

Squeezing the trigger while holding the slide lock lever down, allows the slide to come off as it normally would.
 
Pulling the slide back 1/2 " is too much, 1/8 is enough, pulling the slide back further reset the trigger. Nothing to do with the NY1 trigger spring, the gun can't physically reset the trigger if you don't pull the slide back more than 1/8", it's impossible. I can see no difference at all with or without the NY1 trigger spring. You guys, must have done something wrong, i don't know what but this is not normal.
 
Yep, pulling the slide back 1/2 " is too much, 1/8-1/4 is enough, pulling the slide back further reset the trigger. Nothing to do with the NY1 trigger spring.


It has everything to do with the NY1 spring.

Installation of this spring affects the take down procedure.

nytrig.jpg



See how the NY1 spring keeps constant upward pressure on cruciform of the trigger bar as compared to the stock setup shown below.

trigspr.jpg
 
Onagoth, did you also replace the stock connector with a 3.5# ?

It is a nice setup, also take some time and polish the parts next time you have the gun in pieces.

The 25 cent trigger job.

http://www.alpharubicon.com/mrpoyz/glock/


Yep, I did the 3.5# connector at the same time. I also recently replaced the firing pin spring and cleaned all the bits and pieces, so I kinda ruled out debris as the culprit.
 
It has everything to do with the NY1 spring.

Installation of this spring affects the take down procedure.

nytrig.jpg



See how the NY1 spring keeps constant upward pressure on cruciform of the trigger bar as compared to the stock setup shown below.

trigspr.jpg

Your exactly right about this.

I took a very close look at what was happening. The trigger spring constantly applies upward pressure on the part of the trigger bar which contacts the firing pin.

When the slide is move the slightest bit, the trigger bar moves forward (which technically doesn't reset the trigger, but kicks it out). To stop the trigger bar platform from catching on the firing pin, the trigger needs to be fully rearward.

Unfortunately, the trigger spring moves the bar just enough during the takedown that it produces this little hassle.

The actually clearance between the trigger bar platform and the firing pin catch isn't all that much, but just enough to make a difference. This is not an issue with the stock spring.
 
If the NY spring housing 'snaps' into the trigger mech. housing, is it in there for good, or can it be readily removed?
 
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