Flintlock cleaning?
- Thread starter muzzle flash
- Start date
If you can take the barrel off. fill a tub with hot water. add dishsoap. put the barrel in the water and use a patch and your rod. Pull it up and down. It will draw water in the barrel. Several minutes of this and then run new clean water through. When the water comes out clean, use a wd40 or any rust prevention oil. clean the barrel again with the wd40. then use gun oil. Clean the lock in the same hot water and dishsoap. Dry it off good and use the wd40 and gun oil. By this time you are almost done. use a rag and some regular borecleaner to wipe down any other metal. finish with gun oil and you are done.
Takes longer to type this than it takes me to clean my guns.
Good luck.
If you can't take the barrel off. put a tooth pick in the flash hole and use lots of borecleaner.
Takes longer to type this than it takes me to clean my guns.
Good luck.
If you can't take the barrel off. put a tooth pick in the flash hole and use lots of borecleaner.
Yep, barrel should come off. We use Pinesol and a bit of water soluble cutting oil in a bucket of water. (our cleaning patch solution). Finish up with bore butter.
We have found that when doing a lot of target shooting, the barrel fouls up faster when we use petroleum based oils. However for most people, it doesn't make any difference.
Well...it will be a PITA, and you will use more patches...but follow the same procedure as above...just dip the patches in the water and run them down the bore.
You can tie a rag around the barrel so the dirty water doesn't run down onto the stock.
You are going to have to be extra vigilant around the flash hole though, since you are not flushing water through it.
Dry it WELL...I use a hair-dryer to heat up the barrel to remove any moisture.
Now get out there and make some smoke.
You could remove the flash hole liner if it has one , rig up a fitting to that opening , and use some plastic hose ( that fits ) . Put other end into a bucket of your hot soapy water , and draw a patched ram rod up and down. It will siphon cleaner in and out of the barrel. Hold a towel around the muzzle as the water will work it's way out of the muzzle.
I've done this with my percussion long gun . Barrel is pinned to a full stock and is a hassle to remove.
good luck...
I've done this with my percussion long gun . Barrel is pinned to a full stock and is a hassle to remove.
good luck...
clean it in hot, not cold water , with dish soap, it should get pretty warm to touch,i oil mine with any 3in 1 oil, spray the lock inside and out with any silicone spray, after cleaning it in the hot water , wipe off the excess moisture with more dry patches , thats it check it the next day by running a oil patch in to the bore , it should come out clear ,,wade
"www.trackofthewolf.com ", offers an attachment for the touch hole for cleaning. Try blocking the touch hole and filling the barrel with hot soapy water, pour out part and cover the muzzel and shake, repeat as necessary. The do the usualy cleaning with patches, etc.,
I clean my Brown Bess using a garden hose usually. I hold the rifle upside down with the muzzle pointing downward at a slight angle. That way, the water does not drip onto the stock even when it comes out of the touch hole... Well, mostly!
I spray water in the barrel then use a brush to sweep the barrel, then respray water to rinse. I repeat until the water comes clean. Then I scrape the touch hole, towel dry everything, dry the barrel with rags wrapped around the ramrod and then I use some CLP to clean the barrel, the touch hole and on every metal parts... Then I carefully dry the touch hole to remove all the CLP and I have a clean ready-to-fire flinter! I like CLP but using a water displacement agent and then oil is good. Drying the weapon carefully is a must if no WD40, CLP or other such pruduct is available.
I spray water in the barrel then use a brush to sweep the barrel, then respray water to rinse. I repeat until the water comes clean. Then I scrape the touch hole, towel dry everything, dry the barrel with rags wrapped around the ramrod and then I use some CLP to clean the barrel, the touch hole and on every metal parts... Then I carefully dry the touch hole to remove all the CLP and I have a clean ready-to-fire flinter! I like CLP but using a water displacement agent and then oil is good. Drying the weapon carefully is a must if no WD40, CLP or other such pruduct is available.
Is ther some special trick/tool to remove flash hole liner?
What make of flintlock is it? Knowing this might get you a more specific answer.
The flinter is a M ADVANCE it apears that the flash hole liner can be removed with a allen key.
I had it out for my first outing with a flintlock. Fired 15 balls at 50 meters and one fizzle. I will say that it will take some getting use to the lag between the pan and main charge going off especially when you can see the pan lighting up then the main boom. I was happy with the accuracy I recieved with the gun.
I had it out for my first outing with a flintlock. Fired 15 balls at 50 meters and one fizzle. I will say that it will take some getting use to the lag between the pan and main charge going off especially when you can see the pan lighting up then the main boom. I was happy with the accuracy I recieved with the gun.
- Location
- Algoma region
You dont have to remove the liner,
A well maintained quality flintlock will have no perceiveable lag in ignition from pan ignition to main charge ignition.
1.take lock off of stock
2.plug touch hole with finger "press finger against touch hole"
3. keep touch hole plugged and dump some regular room temp water in there
4. plug muzzle with other hand
5. swoosh water in barrel back and forth/ up and down with both sides plugged, empty water and repeat until water runs out clean.
6. dry tube with patches, then further clean with steel wool on your rod
7. swab tube with oiled rag
8. clean rest of arm with oiled rag and oil with special attention paid to the lock.
9. Swab barrel tube with oiled rag every week or so
10. admire properly cleaned fire lock arm!
A well maintained quality flintlock will have no perceiveable lag in ignition from pan ignition to main charge ignition.
1.take lock off of stock
2.plug touch hole with finger "press finger against touch hole"
3. keep touch hole plugged and dump some regular room temp water in there
4. plug muzzle with other hand
5. swoosh water in barrel back and forth/ up and down with both sides plugged, empty water and repeat until water runs out clean.
6. dry tube with patches, then further clean with steel wool on your rod
7. swab tube with oiled rag
8. clean rest of arm with oiled rag and oil with special attention paid to the lock.
9. Swab barrel tube with oiled rag every week or so
10. admire properly cleaned fire lock arm!
I wound up twisting a foam ear plug and sticking it in flash hole then doing the water cleaning. After about 10 water soaked patches and a bunch more to dry the tube I used bore butter on inside and outside of tube. The lock I cleaned and oiled. I figured I was done then noticed the scraper attachment sitting in shooting box. I screwed this on and run it down the cleaned barrel. I was very surprised on how much gunk was in the bottom of what I thought was a clean barrel.
Weapontech
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- On my way to Hell in a handbasket
x2
I picked-up a similar gizmo down in Friendship. It had a 24" silicone tube with a small (powerful) magnet with an "O" ring on it. You simply placed it over the touch hole, the magnet held it there while the O-ring kept anything from leaking out. The other end went into a bucket of your favorite cleaning mix & voila. Worked great until the dog found-out that chewing silicone was more fun than milkbone.
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Are you using a BP subsitiute?....if so, switch to the real stuff....If it still happens, check the flash hole size..Should be about 1/16" - 5/64" in dia.
My flinters are Uberti`s and taking off the barrel is a real problem....I just swab the bore until clean and oil with CLP...Never had a problem....
