Looking to build my first long range black rifle

mr.rhtuner

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Hey everybody, after buying a Savage 10FP and changing it around to my liking, now I'd like to build a long range black/green rifle to go with my small collection.

Now I've been searching around and have read about the 'ar15' platform but also heard about the AR10...which seems to be a longer version of the AR15.
Would that be better to start off for a long range project then a AR15 and upgrading to a longer upper receiver. I also don't know if I want it in .223 or .308 caliber and not sure which would be better for a black rifle.
With my Savage being a .308, I know the price of rounds can be costly but not sure how it is with AR platform rifles.

I'd like to build something in this 'style'
green_AR10.jpg


But I'm not sure where to start. I'd like a nice adjustable stock, long upper receiver with a rail, a bipod and possibly a forward grip on it.

Any suggestions on what I should begin with and start with?

Thank you
bart
 
I wasn't aware an AR10 was a longer version of the AR15. I was under the impression that the AR10 was typically chambered in .308 and the AR15 was typically chambered in .223/5.56
 
The new AR-10 type rifles use dedicated upper and lower receivers. Some minor parts are common with AR-15s.
What do you consider to be "long range"?
.223 rifles with the right bullet and barrel will work to 900m. So will a .308. If you want an AR-15 to shoot 80gr VLD bullets, it will have to be single loaded.
 
I wasn't aware an AR10 was a longer version of the AR15. I was under the impression that the AR10 was typically chambered in .308 and the AR15 was typically chambered in .223/5.56


I don't know if thats true or not, but I heard that from a friend online. Could be just bs for all I know. So a AR10 would be a .308 setup and a AR15 typically .223?

I guess I will stick with .223 this time around since I have a .308 at home. So if I were to pickup a standard AR-15, what kind of upper receiver can I purchase to a longer barrel w/hand guards.
I'd like to be able to work the rifle from 100-1000m, 1000m in time but I'd like it to be setup so it will have the capabilities to shoot that far.

Thanks for the help so far guys
 
The original Dutch made AR-10 rifles share the name with the current production rifles, buy are quite different rifles in many ways. Current .308 (and .260) rifles are more like AR-15s with adaptations for the larger cartridge.
If you want an AR-15 based rifle specifically set up for long range shooting, you might want to consider one with a "space gun" upper. Longer match grade barrel, tubular handguard, etc.
 
AR10 vs AR 15

The "Original" AR 10 wasn't Dutch, it was American. It was designed By Eugene Stoner, and was not at all like the AR10 of today. Aside from the visual differences, it was piston operated & 7.62mm (.308) It lost out on the army contract to the M14, largely because of politics. Several years later the army came back to the idea, but they wanted it lighter and in a smaller calibre so that the grunts could carry more bullets. After a complete redesign, we got the M16.

So today's AR15's are the children of the original AR10. HOWEVER, today's AR10's are actually just a big AR15 as opposed to the original AR10 design.
Knight's armament started looking at bringing back the AR10 concept a while ago for the SEALs, and then Armalite brought it back commercially, using modified M14 mags. To take down an AR10 and an AR15 side by side, you would see that the parts are almost identical, just bigger on the .308 version. That's why the receiver is longer, because the 7.62 round & mag are much longer. AS a side affect of Armalite using modified M14 mags for their version of the AR10, it's mags aren't interchangeable with other "AR10 type rifles," for example DPMS.

By the way, the rifle in your picture is an Armalite, with the modified M14 mag.

Any AR10 variant you find will be chambered in 7.62, or at least in a cartridge that uses the same size BASE as the 7.62mm/.308 (.243, 6.5 creedmore, etc..)

Almost any AR15 will be chambered in 5.56mm/.223, although there are some in 6.8mmSPC.


Personally, I would build a long range AR15 first, then maybe later an AR10. My biggest reason is parts availability, and cost. An AR10 will cost you about twice as much as it's little brother. And while you can build an AR10 yourself, I think it's actually easier to buy one then mod it yourself.

With an AR15 you can save a TON of money by building it yourself from the dirt up. You have a lot of choices too. I would go with a Rock River Arms lower reciever & a lower parts kit with a match trigger (any manufacture). The butt-stock depends on what you want, you could go with any of dozens of collapsable stocks on a carbine length buffer tube, or go with a rifle length butt & buffer system. The same goes for a pistol grip & fore-grip if you decide to mount one. There are literally HUNDREDS of options, and it all boils down to personal preference and of course LCF. ;)

Their are probably just as many choices for your upper receiver as there are for a pistol grip. You could go with a "match" or "varminter" upper receiver, most manufacturers offer them. These come out of the box ready to be mounted & fired That reminds me; any AR15 upper & lower will fit together, regardless of manufacturer. Or, if you really have a boner for DIY jobs, you can order all the part & put them together, but the upper is best left to the pros. If DIY is the route you choose, the I would order a stripped upper & a complete bolt assembly (might as well go with RRA again) and a 20" barrel from Shilen with a chamber cut for 5.56mm, or Wylde. (Mystic player has Shilen barrels on the EE). You can order your quad-rail hand guard from a number of companies, since it's a long-range project, you're going to want to go with one that's free-floated. Check around, there are lots of companies that offer rails. The same with the gas-block, there are lots of different styles of gas blocks, some have rails, flip up sights, and other crazy gadgets. The installation of both the barrel AND a free float tube are best left to a gunsmith though, unless you're already familiar with the process. And of course checking the headspacing of the bolt to the barrel. There is also nothing stopping you from buying a complete upper reciever and then putting a match barrel & free float tube on it.

Finally, your add your choice of bipod & scope and you're good to go. Throw on some Back Up Iron Sights (BUIS) for LCF if you really want to.

I know that's all really generalized, but honestly, it has to be! When it come to putting together an AR15, there are a ridiculous number of choices out there. Regardless, I hope this helps a little.

Cheers.

Tim H
 
The "Original" AR 10 wasn't Dutch, it was American. It was designed By Eugene Stoner, and was not at all like the AR10 of today. Aside from the visual differences, it was piston operated & 7.62mm (.308)

Uhm, Original AR-10s were DI not piston operated.

An idea you may wish to consider, is to build a long range .223 rifle, and if that's not enough horsepower, you could build a 6.5 Grendel, which has superior long range ballistics but can still be built on a AR-15 receiver.
 
IMO I would stick with a AR15 platform for the simple reason that there are far more high end barrels available if you want to build a good long range AR

Assuming you want to stick with 5.56 and not go to a 6.5Grendel, your choices are Kreiger, WOA, Satern , Noveske etc all make outstanding barrels. Having said that I have had a RRA Varmint with a Wilson barrel that was outstanding

I personally would spend your $$ on the barrel instead of go fast goodies like the fancy forends etc unless you want the look. You will have a cow when you see how much you can spend on a barrel for an AR

Next spend what you can on a good scope

Next, spend the $$ on a good trigger like a Geissle etc.

I like the look of the Mk12Mod0

CopyofMK12Mod013.jpg


This is built on a Vltor forged upper, Noveske SPR barrel ( polygon Pac Nor, with intermediate gas system...you can see the gas block under the handguard ). If I were not going for the "look" I wouldn't bother with the PRI forend and all the other gear. Justs adds weight and doesn't do anything for accuracy.

If you are on a budget the best bang for the buck are the JP VTac free float forends
 
Hey thank you all for the response, and thank you Tim H for that post.

I can't reply often as I don't have much internet access at my base so I try to get on when I can.

I think I'm going to look for a lower receiver on the for sale section and just add the adjustable butt onto it.

Now for a upper receiver, how do I get a 'longer' barrel one? do I buy a specific one made for long distance or do you buy a standard upper receiver and put on a longer barrel?

thanks guys!
 
AR-10 rifles are difficult to find right now. I prefer the .308 for long range over the .223, especially if there is any wind.

For an AR-15 you can get an accuracy rig right off the bat. It won't be "tacticool" but there are two that guarantee .5 moa. The Stag model 6 and the Les Bauer Super varminter (far more expensive than the Stag).

In terms of Cost I'd look at the Stag. I had plans to buy one, but I currently have two .308 Ar rigs, so I've held off. Still match trigger, match barrel and Stag quality. Hard to beat for the price.

Keep in mind that AR rifles are @$@#$:bsFlag: restricted. So your distance will be limited by the range.
 
Gents:

With all do respect, if your going to build a reach out and touch something rifle, (notice I said rifle), with a 24" + barrel, and your going to use an AR platform, I think its really tough to beat and Armalite AR10T done up correctly in 7.62 nato (or 308).

regards

AbH

AR-10T-s-1.jpg


AR-10T-s-2.jpg
 
Isn't this Jeff's rifle?! :p

To the original poster:

Love my AR10. Nothing makes me as giddy as holding my 21" Noveske barrel upper. As a matter of fact, it's been too long since the last time and will give her an affectionate cleaning when I get home.

IMG_4630.jpg


It now has a Harris bipod since the picture was taken.

Pricey, but oh so worth it. The rifle itself was a steal at $3000 or so.
 
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