How far under max load??

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I'll buy what your saying Grizzlypeg!! I would also say that grouping less than 1" with using lower than maximum suggested load and slightly preserving your brass is a loading success!! For my 243 i use 95gr ballistic tips with IMR powder. I load at 37 grain and suggested max is 38.8 At 100 yards i can always make at least 3 of a five shot group touch. I call this a loading success and believe that if i want to make all five rounds touch i will have to do less load development and more shooting!!!!! Unfortunately my 243 is usually placed on the back burner and most of my time is spent with my 3 .50BMG rifles.

PS Is 47.3 the max suggested load meaning that your 45 grain load is roughly 4.9% under max? being fairly close to my 4%-5% that i said usually works pretty good for me

good post!! check that out someone actually answered the question ask and gave a number that works for them rather than stating a bunch of useless crap!! it just so happens to be rite in my ballpark
 
Working up some new loads this weekend for my 300WM, I found that this rifle really likes the 200gr Noslers (AB's) at a max load of 77gr H-1000,
When I dropped to 180gr Nosler (BT's) I had my best groups at the min load of 76gr H-1000

I typically start at the min and work my way up 1 gr at a time... I end up shooting a few more rnds than most but I am never left second guessing a particular load I may have skipped over.

J
 
Max load for a particular gun will not be less than max load suggested by the manufacture of the gun powder!!! Unless there is something seriously wrong with the gun!! Powder manufactures do not want to hurt someone and get sued!!!!
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The people printing the manual generally use a single gun to work up loads for each cartridge.Therefore the maximum loads that they list are the maximum loads for that one particular rifle.They know full well that due to variations in chambers,barrels,and components,the results will vary from gun to gun.That is why the manuals contain the warning to work up loads from the minimum load while watching for pressure signs.That warning is intended to prevent someone from being hurt and suing them.
But then I suppose that you have never read those warnings.:eek:
Your post makes it very obvious that your reloading knowledge is very limited,or you would understand why all loads listed in the loading manuals may not be safe in all guns.

Over pressure is most commonly indicated by a horizontal circle rite at the top of the web!!!
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:bsFlag:

Why would you start at 25% under max load!!!! your bullet cant even spin fast enough to stabilize it's self!! What a waste of time!!
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:onCrack:

If anyone at all on this website was held accountable for the even half bulls**t they spread there would suddenly be very few people with opinions!!!!!
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You would be the first to go.:bump:

Some people should just shoot factory loads.You've read just enough to be dangerous.
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+1
 
Levi Garrett said:
If you have any worries on load methods , or other concerns, please use factory ammo...:D
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You still don't get it yet do you!!!! I have no worries about loading!!! my first question was simply asking what do most people find works for them. Is it that hard of a concept to grasp!!!!! or are you just really stupid!!!!!!!!
 
stubblejumper. You have yet to say anything useful!! if max load could cause problems than factory ammo would not be at max load!!!!! give it up. Dont be bitter because i think your an idiot. Take it as constructive criticism you'll be further ahead!!!
 
JIP911 said:
Working up some new loads this weekend for my 300WM, I found that this rifle really likes the 200gr Noslers (AB's) at a max load of 77gr H-1000,
When I dropped to 180gr Nosler (BT's) I had my best groups at the min load of 76gr H-1000

I typically start at the min and work my way up 1 gr at a time... I end up shooting a few more rnds than most but I am never left second guessing a particular load I may have skipped over.

J
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I would also agree with this. Good post. He even answered the question of what works for him!!!! Cant ever go wrong with starting 10% under max an working your way up!!!!!
 
if max load could cause problems than factory ammo would not be at max load!!
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It usually isn't.Why do you suppose that velocities produced by maximum loads listed in loading manuals often exceed the velocities produced by factory loads?:rolleyes:
However in some cases where the ammunition companies have tried to produce too much velocity,such as with some of the WSM cartridges and some weatherby loads,factory loads have caused problems,especially in warmer temperatures.
 
Apparently you did not take your first deleted message as some kind of warning.


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stubblejumper said:
It usually isn't.Why do you suppose that velocities produced by maximum loads listed in loading manuals often exceed the velocities produced by factory loads?:rolleyes:
However in some cases where the ammunition companies have tried to produce too much velocity,such as with some of the WSM cartridges and some weatherby loads,factory loads have caused problems,especially in warmer temperatures.
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do any reloading manuals have loads for the same factory bullets with the same powder used????? also it may be noted that bullet seating depth has a great deal to do with velocity and chamber pressure. With the same load but seated different distances from the lands i can very the velocity in my 243 as much as 200fps!!!!! the closer you seat to the lands the more pressure you build up in the chamber!!!! this is also why the give a 10% under starting load!!!

but all that aside. my original question still remains what works for most people???
 
P.S not so worried if i got kicked of the CGN website bahahaha not going to have my feelings hurt believe it or not
 
the closer you seat to the lands the more pressure you build up in the chamber ,
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Actually that is probably the one statement of his that is not all that far from the truth.
For the most part,my chronograph testing has shown that as I seat bullets closer to the lands,the velocity does increase.The longer the jump to the lands,the easier it is for the lands to engrave the bullet,and the lower the pressure and velocity.
 
.50BMG said:
do any reloading manuals have loads for the same factory bullets with the same powder used????? also it may be noted that bullet seating depth has a great deal to do with velocity and chamber pressure. With the same load but seated different distances from the lands i can very the velocity in my 243 as much as 200fps!!!!! the closer you seat to the lands the more pressure you build up in the chamber!!!! this is also why the give a 10% under starting load!!!

but all that aside. my original question still remains what works for most people???
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The beauty of hand loading is do whatever it take to make the

load for your rifle.My load is for my rifle,your load is for your rifle even

we do have the same type of rifle also the caliber.;)

Happy reloading and shooting.
 
stubblejumper said:
Actually that is probably the one statement of his that is not all that far from the truth.
For the most part,my chronograph testing has shown that as I seat bullets closer to the lands,the velocity does increase.The longer the jump to the lands,the easier it is for the lands to engrave the bullet,and the lower the pressure and velocity.
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If not right up on the lands, all your doing is increasing the space in the case, which will lower pressure, not so?.
There is a warning I would like to toss out there, to little powder in a case of slow burning powder can , and will cause high pressure, not good
 
D3006 said:
The beauty of hand loading is do whatever it take to make the

load for your rifle.My load is for my rifle,your load is for your rifle even

we do have the same type of rifle also the caliber.;)

Happy reloading and shooting.
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Well stated, and all this over such a simple question to start with bahaha kinda makes me laugh.
 
Levi Garrett said:
If not right up on the lands, all your doing is increasing the space in the case, which will lower pressure, not so?.
There is a warning I would like to toss out there, to little powder in a case of slow burning powder can , and will cause high pressure, not good
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I hate to say this but stubblejumper is rite and levi you are wrong! the closer you are to the lands the higher pressure. The further you are from the lands the lower the pressure. The pressure is trying to escape. If the bullet is rite on the lands it is harder to force it into the rifling if the bullet is further back and can start moving before the pressure builds the momentium of the bullet helps force it into the rifling not requiring as high of pressure in the chamber to get it out.

If you get a run at the hill with your car it does not require as much power to get up it!!!!!!!! if that concept helps any
 
.50BMG said:
I hate to say this but stubblejumper is rite and levi you are wrong! the closer you are to the lands the higher pressure. The further you are from the lands the lower the pressure. The pressure is trying to escape. If the bullet is rite on the lands it is harder to force it into the rifling if the bullet is further back and can start moving before the pressure builds the momentium of the bullet helps force it into the rifling not requiring as high of pressure in the chamber to get it out.

If you get a run at the hill with your car it does not require as much power to get up it!!!!!!!! if that concept helps any
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I use this reasoning with Barnes x ,. so its not new. but much more to it than this, as the compression of powder, or not , bearing surface, distance, etc
But heck , sounds like you got it down, might as well write a load manual :D
 
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