AR15 precision hold technique

Grizzlypeg

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What's the best method for hold an AR-15 for precision shooting off a rest or bipod? Do you 1)non trigger hand at rear of buttstock? 2)non trigger hand on front handguard

Question 2) How do you keep optimal pressure of the rear of the stock against the shoulder a) pull it rearward with the pistol grip (?) or b) pull rearward with front handguard c) lean into the rifle with shoulder?

I'm shooting with a scope, a2 stock, floating front tubular handguard. Sometimes off a bag rest, sometimes with a bipod.
 
with a bipod i usually use my left hand to pull the stock into my sholder and help adjust before my shoulder so im almost shooting with my arms crossed. its the most conforable way for me.
 
Q1. answer 1.
(remember that depending on the conditions,
you can also rest the buttstock on a bag -
- it may take a while to learn to work the bag).

Q2. IMO, that "optimal pressure" you are talking about is not a biggie,
as long as it is repeatable.
When I don't free-recoil the rifle,
I get that "pressure" by a combined action of the two hands,
but that's just me (yes, I realize that with your A2 stock
it is not so easy to use your non-shooting hand to do that).
 
with a bipod i usually use my left hand to pull the stock into my sholder and help adjust before my shoulder so im almost shooting with my arms crossed. its the most conforable way for me.

Same with me....

Non trigger arm is crossed and holding my shooting bicep / shoulder... with the butt of the rifle cradled in between my thumb and index finger as a support.

I ease a bit into the gun to apply pressure to my shoulder and dont use my trigger hand for anything other then pulling the trigger and holding on just tight enough to control the rifle so I don't pull the shot.
 
Whatever gives you the best results. It's always good to try different positions -especially from those that can shoot - but don't feel obligated to use 'such and such' hold because it works for someone else.
Same goes for the pressure of the hold - some like it rock tight - others not so much. Try different things - but never loose sight of the principles of marksmanship.
 
I'm upgrading from a somewhat heavy stock trigger to a RRA 2 stage, and I'm hoping that will help me some. I'm still trying to develop a 75 grain load. I'm unable to break beneath 1moa for 10 shots. Still trying to figure out where the problem lies. I appreciate the suggestions. I can outshoot this with a bolt gun, but that's really comparing apples with oranges, a more familiar stock, better trigger, radically different ergonomics and probably more forgiving to various loads.

Edit: I remove the rear sling hoop from the A2 stock as it was interfering with positioning a rear bag. Is an A2 stock about the best for precision shooting, short of buying a Magpul PRS?
 
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IMHO the only added benefit of the PRS is the ability to lengthen the butt on the fly. The ability to raise the comb is not needed, and in fact gimicky - I'd stick with the A2.
I can see having issues with the 75s at 100m - a fact you may have to live with. Try shooting them further than 300m - that is where the longer, heavier stuff shines. If you want to shoot shorter range and put them all sub-moa, look to the 69gr SMK or some of the lighter stuff like the 60gr. amax/vmax...
 
My experience is with the AR-10 precision rifles but the principles are the same. I actually really like the A2 stock for this type of rifle. For any type of dual purpose or carbine, I prefer the Magpul CTR. But... for an accuracy rig the A2 works great.

I use a front bag, and a back bag or sand sock. The non firing hand squeezes the back bag to adjust. I don't touch the back stock if I can help it.

Also, use short mags. The high capacity pinned mags suck for any bench rest style shooting. You can get away with the Armalite AR-10 and DPMS LR-308 20 (19) round mags (pinned to 5 of course), but shorter is better. With the AR-15 the 10 round pistol mags should work well.

Another thing to keep in mind. The AR platforms may have a tendency to push the bullet into the brass when cycling. Crimping may be required to avoid this.
 
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