Epoxy For Attaching Sights and Barrel Bands?

Moose Masher

Moose Masher

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Oak Hammok Manitoba
The May 2006 (no.225) issue of "Rifle" magazine contains an article on installing a barrel band sling stud. The author(s) state...

"Traditionally barrel bands have been bonded with solder, but heating a barrel can cause slight damage to the bore. Modern epoxies are just as strong when used for this purpose and prevent damage to the bore."

This got me wondering about a couple of things.

Could epoxy be used to afix sights as well?
Does anyone have experience with this?

When installing barrel bands or sights at the factory with solder, how do they prevent damage to the bore?

How do I remove a soldered on front sight ramp without over-heating it, possibly damaging the bore?

Thoughts?
 
I reattached a previously soldered on front sight ramp that had popped off using JB Weld. I applied it sparingly, lightly clamped the ramp to the barrel and immediately clean off any ooze from around the ramp. That was a couple of years ago, and the ramp is still there.
 
I had a front sight attached to a pistol with JB weld, it held for several years, till I broke it off trying to tap over the windage.

I've now got it attached with acraglass gel, seems to be holding fine.

The pistol is a remington xp-100 in .308 win, so if it stays on that, most guns shouldn't be a problem.
 
I've used JB weld to attach scope bases to rifles with 100% success. The real advantage is that they can be removed whenever you want with no sign that a scope had ever been mounted, yet if done properly in the first place I doubt that they'd ever break loose. Never have for me anyway. I de-grease with SuperClean (Automotive parts) and apply the thinnest possible even layer of JB to one surface...as suggested in the post above.

To remove I use a 2 speed paint stripper heat gun and start applying torque to the base when it gets hot to the touch. When the base comes off keep the heat on at a lower setting and carefully scrape off the residual JB, final cleanup with a coarse towel and elbow grease. A short piece of hardwood cut like a wedge makes a perfect scraper and shouldn't mark the finish/surface of the rifle at all.

My eyes are no longer good enough to allow me to shoot well with iron sights. This way I can mount a scope on an undrilled collectible rifle and get a lot of fun shooting it....and that's a very good thing. I haven't gone on a long hunting trip with this setup yet, but see no compelling reason not to at this point.
 
Locktite 380 "Black Max" Its not cheap but I've used it on several occassions. Attached fibre-optic sights to my shotgun and haven't had any problems.
 
Moose Masher said:
When installing barrel bands or sights at the factory with solder, how do they prevent damage to the bore?

How do I remove a soldered on front sight ramp without over-heating it, possibly damaging the bore?
Click to expand...

When silver solder is required (as in installing a front sight ramp) they coat the bore with an anti-scaling compound. It is exposure to air while very hot that causes the oxidation, the compound shields the bore from the ambient atmosphere.

For removal of a front sight ramp concentrate the heat on the ramp only, avoiding the barrel. The ramp will heat up plenty fast and the solder will melt quickly. The barrel will see minimal heat this way.
 
Moose Masher said:
How do I remove a soldered on front sight ramp without over-heating it, possibly damaging the bore?

Thoughts?
Click to expand...


I have used this on may occasions for different projects, including coating my 700 trigger group so I could use a pencil torch on the screws. It DOES work



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Bernzomatic Cold Coat Spray Gel

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Technical Details


  • 16 oz.
  • For use with propane & MAPP torches
  • Adheres to most surfaces
  • Water based - little to no clean up, no staining


Product Description

Product Description
Blocks heat and reduces fire risk during soldering and welding. Spray on copper pipe on either side of solder joint to prevent heat traveling to valves. Wood studs and plywood walls when solding pipes to avoid burns and fire. Spray on rubber fittings and appliances to avoid damage during installation and repair. Spray on chrome and fiberglass to protect cars and boats from damage during repair or decorative work. Spray on any surface to rapidly cool it down after heating.
 
I talked to a gunsmith about pretty much the same thing and his reply was use 3m weldbond as he had used it on some stuff he had done at boeing and they had to use a torch to cut the stuff apart
 
There is a company that specializes in aftermarket vent ribs for shotgun barrels, and they have been installing them for decades with an epoxy-type compound. The only problem I could see is if you want to re-blue afterwards. But then, you would have the same problems as if you had installed the parts with soft solder anyways.

Erik.
 
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