CZ-858 Info
- Thread starter Guill
- Start date
The cleaning and maintenance of corrosive ammo is not as bad as I thought it would be. I was hesitant at first but now my CZ is the gun I shoot the most because ammo is so cheap.
There are alternatives out there, but they will cost a lot more money. Usually close to or as much as commercial .308 and .30-06 ammo.
There are alternatives out there, but they will cost a lot more money. Usually close to or as much as commercial .308 and .30-06 ammo.
Corrosive surplus is good for plinking and for getting to know your rifle. It's also good for practice shooting steel at 100+ yards. If you can shoot a 10" plate with irons at 100 yards repeatedly, shooting good quality soft point ammo when hunting when under 100 yards will be a sinch. Don't expect surplus ammo to be terribly accurate though.
The CZ-858 is easy to clean and decontaminate after shooting corrosive. You can swab the barrel before you leave the range with Eds' Red/Hoppes 9 and finish cleaning it within a day. Takes 30 minutes tops. There are probably 50 threads here on cleaning it.
Buy one! Buy two!
The CZ-858 is easy to clean and decontaminate after shooting corrosive. You can swab the barrel before you leave the range with Eds' Red/Hoppes 9 and finish cleaning it within a day. Takes 30 minutes tops. There are probably 50 threads here on cleaning it.
Buy one! Buy two!
i dont think you need to worry about shooting commercial ammo and your rifle blowing up
the corrosive ammo is fine - it feels great to just grab another box of 20 and blast them off for fun without counting the dollars in your head as you do so.
Just make sure to use boiling water to clean the barrel and you'll be fine.
Now, if you're interested in super accurate shooting or long range shooting, i dont know if the milsurp ammo is the best bet, but hey you're firing 7.62x39 anyways so dont sweat it.
also, there is an alternative to corrosive 7.62x39, but it is very hard to find, in small quantities, and expensive.
the corrosive ammo is fine - it feels great to just grab another box of 20 and blast them off for fun without counting the dollars in your head as you do so.
Just make sure to use boiling water to clean the barrel and you'll be fine.
Now, if you're interested in super accurate shooting or long range shooting, i dont know if the milsurp ammo is the best bet, but hey you're firing 7.62x39 anyways so dont sweat it.
also, there is an alternative to corrosive 7.62x39, but it is very hard to find, in small quantities, and expensive.
i used the same ammo and no issue .
i even used the amercian eagle , had 1 out of 20 failed to feed due to the casing got hung up against the sharp edges , after polishing the edges no issue.
if you are still concerned then use non-corrosive surplus.
They are all over the place on EE. Wolverine and Moving Target have lots of new ones.
There are lots of parts for these guns. Best to buy two; one breaded and one naked. I have a tactool version and a plain wood version.
Also, it's good to have some spare parts. Again, easy to get a hold of.
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
You are asking for an alternative to corrosive AND commercial ammo?
How about reloading? But you still have to use commercial brass, commercial powder and primers, and commercial bullets, unless you cast your own bullets.
Not to hijack the thread. But like some responses above, just fire cheap corrosive, have fun at the range.
Then pour windex or hot water down the barrel. When you get home, dismantle the weapon and clean. Threads on cleaning after corrosive ammo abound on this forum.
Or if your reason for not using corrosive if because you abhor cleaning, like some of us do, wipe down the rifle outside and as much as you can reach into the receiver, spray WD-40 inside and outside. Stand the rifle on its muzzle and spray down the bore. Remove the gas tube and piston and spray them too.
I've used this procedure and let the rifle sit uncleaned for more than 2 months and still no sign of rust.
WD-40 contains a moisture displacing compound that keeps moisture off treated surfaces. If no moisture contacts metal, how can rust form? I've seen pictures of different products sprayed onto bare steel sheets, then salt-sprayed 24 hours. WD-40 protected the bare steel. Another product I want to try is CorrosionX which I read is even better than WD40.
