North Eastern Arms VZ/CZ Railed Handguard and Muzzle Brake (with pics!)

I was looking for the lowest possible scout mount; I guss this one fills the bill quite nicely.
Now I'll try to find the lowest possible reflex sight to go along with it.
I am fashioning a lace-on cheek pad (à la Garand) which will not disfigure my original ''Beaver barf'' stock and allow straight sighting with proper cheek weld.
I have already made an adjustable cheekpiece for the folding Czech skeleton stock but I'm not ready to abandon the solid feel of the original issue composite stock at this moment.
PP.
 
I was looking for the lowest possible scout mount; I guss this one fills the bill quite nicely.
Now I'll try to find the lowest possible reflex sight to go along with it.
I am fashioning a lace-on cheek pad (à la Garand) which will not disfigure my original ''Beaver barf'' stock and allow straight sighting with proper cheek weld.
I have already made an adjustable cheekpiece for the folding Czech skeleton stock but I'm not ready to abandon the solid feel of the original issue composite stock at this moment.
PP.

You won't need one if you have an optic that will co-witness or at least come close to it.

No traces of that mount on GP Tactical. Saw it yesterday :eek:Wolverine home page cuts off before loading; what's going on? :confused:
PP.

GP Tactical must have sold out already.
 
Bud you must have missed this reposted to help.

regards

AbH

For some reason, I always have a real pita zeroing my Aimpoint. In this case it was due to the lining up the dot with the stock sights, when the front sight was not centered.:rolleyes:

Regardless, with albertacoyotecaller's assistance I finally got it set up. Unfortunately, I was pushed for time and the test is quite brief.

Test1Medium.jpg


Three shot groups were fired at circles 1, 2, and 3, at 25m. 1 was after zeroing, 2 was after removing and reinstalling, and 3 was after removing and reinstalling again. I was using a 4 MOA dot Aimpoint Comp M2. The rifle was benched with mag resting on the table. As you can see, there is some variation in where the groups hit, but they're well within acceptable for the target design, the high brightness setting on the M2, wobbly rest, and the fact I'm a lousy shot, IMO. , I'm confident in saying that the rail is top quality and well worth the money.

One item to note, the set screw that holds the ball detent for the pin loosened off and I was able to easily remove the pin with my fingers. A little Loc-tite took care of that issue. You can also replace the NEA pin with your stock hand guard pin. I also noticed a slight variation in hand guard pin hole size on my two rifles.

Test2Medium.jpg
 
Ok so whats the consensus (probably isnt one yet)

This or infratek?

I would like to know.

Pic comparison. (closer)

NEA - Low. Attach red-dot and keep original stock config. (Angle)

Infratek - High. Attach red-dot but put aftermarket Stock on (straight back)

Is that the basic idea?

I wouldn't mind trying both....but the Infratek is a $275 set, not sold seperatley :(
 
Thats nice sight. The Kobra is one of the best that i have owned. Its simple and rugged.

You mean the OKO :D.

The Kobra is a pretty decent sight but it has issues with electronics failures and the fact that Russia no longer exports them pretty much rules them out. OKO has horrible customer service so I would kinda stay away from them too... nice optics though.

The best optic for this setup is the Aimpoint Micro/CompML2 in a low ring or a second best would be the Burris Fastfire. Any of the cheapo Chinese made micro/fastfire knockoffs would work too but with them you shop at your own risk.
 
I would like to know.

Pic comparison. (closer)

NEA - Low. Attach red-dot and keep original stock config. (Angle)

Infratek - High. Attach red-dot but put aftermarket Stock on (straight back)

Is that the basic idea?

I wouldn't mind trying both....but the Infratek is a $275 set, not sold seperatley :(

Infratek with Comp M2

January035Medium.jpg


NEA with Comp M2

NEARail5Medium.jpg


I don't see any need to have a different stock configuration for either of these setups. So you get a chin weld with a higher setup, no big deal. Honestly, I like the heads-up config better, but I really wanted a lower rail. The Infratek restricts your sight picture using irons and there's no way you can come close to co-witnessing.

I've used both setups successfully on the same rifle, even though there has to be at least an inch difference in height.

For my purposes, the NEA design is superior and it's easier to install.
 
It’s a clean and simple design but there is reasons why most of the advanced vz. 58 aluminum rail systems that were designed for the Czech and Slovak military have some material between the open piston and the top rail. Aluminum when heated expands therefore less material equals more distortion . With recreational shooting 5 single shots at a time this will most likely not be a issue, but with more aggressive shooting, where rivets don’t decide if you are a criminal or not :) ….well it is just physics and chemistry. To truly co witness you need to modify the front and rear sights, not scrape down the rail. From at least 8 different aluminum rail designs that I’ve seen or handled (all had meat between the piston and rail)

The 3 main designs that were tested and or are in use by the Czech-Slovak military are the following

B&T
btrail.jpg


FAB Aluminum
fabrail.jpg



and the Slovak MTC design.
Guess

Each one of these systems addresses the key requirements. Unique adjustments because there are minor differences from one rifle to the next. (ie: gas block is a thou+ forward or back or set a thou+ left or right) hence the screw adjustments that compensate (B&T and SK) which only have to be set once. The FAB aluminum as well as the FAB polymer like the original B&T rely on the lower hand guard being set in place for retention of 0 by locking into it ignoring the minor rifle differences. Once again all of these designs and all the others have enough room or material over the piston for the heat to dissipate
 
Thank you guys for the pics and info.
Ordered a 858 last night, I went with the NEA (for now) because the top is sold separately.

Where is that FAB aluminum one from? Where can I get it or just the lower?
 
It’s a clean and simple design but there is reasons why most of the advanced vz. 58 aluminum rail systems that were designed for the Czech and Slovak military have some material between the open piston and the top rail. Aluminum when heated expands therefore less material equals more distortion . With recreational shooting 5 single shots at a time this will most likely not be a issue, but with more aggressive shooting, where rivets don’t decide if you are a criminal or not :) ….well it is just physics and chemistry. To truly co witness you need to modify the front and rear sights, not scrape down the rail. From at least 8 different aluminum rail designs that I’ve seen or handled (all had meat between the piston and rail)

The 3 main designs that were tested and or are in use by the Czech-Slovak military are the following

B&T
btrail.jpg


FAB Aluminum
fabrail.jpg



and the Slovak MTC design.
Guess

Each one of these systems addresses the key requirements. Unique adjustments because there are minor differences from one rifle to the next. (ie: gas block is a thou+ forward or back or set a thou+ left or right) hence the screw adjustments that compensate (B&T and SK) which only have to be set once. The FAB aluminum as well as the FAB polymer like the original B&T rely on the lower hand guard being set in place for retention of 0 by locking into it ignoring the minor rifle differences. Once again all of these designs and all the others have enough room or material over the piston for the heat to dissipate


I dont see how you think the venting on either of those makes a difference. Basically they have added extra material to have vents which will conduct more heat
 
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