September Purchases

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I win. :D.

I'm not that rich, all of the above was in the making since May, it just came together in September.

What you see:
P210-2 in .30 Luger, mint
M1906/29 red Grip Swiss Luger (made in 35'), nearly unfired, with original holster
K31 in excellent condition with matching bayonet and about two days of polishing on the stainless parts :D

More eye candy:

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you've got the nicest swiss collection
do you mind if i ask how much the luger cost you?

img0056small.jpg


I win. :D.

I'm not that rich, all of the above was in the making since May, it just came together in September.

What you see:
P210-2 in .30 Luger, mint
M1906/29 red Grip Swiss Luger (made in 35'), nearly unfired, with original holster
K31 in excellent condition with matching bayonet and about two days of polishing on the stainless parts :D

More eye candy:

img0080c.jpg


img0083xr.jpg


img0058nn.jpg


img0064xy.jpg


img0049.jpg


img0030sn.jpg
 
"what is the green around the rivits, and the white "chaulky" substance that is on the leather?"

The white stuff on the leather is likely salt leaching from the leather due to moisture inside (the same thing happens with new leather combat boots) keeping it in a dry environment will stop it, and regular polish will get rid of it.
 
that's a very beautiful swiss collection...

I own two K31 myself, fantastic rifles...

And Who wouldn't like to wn a P210 or a swiss luger ? especially in this great condition.

the red plastic grips, however, look kind of weird to me...
 
As already mentioned, there are a lot of answers to the treatment of leather. I've spoken with a number of curators and all of them disagree as to what is the preferred method, and all agree that it is a perpetual problem. I've tried Pickards on some stuff but found that it leaves a build up. Same goes for a few of the different products touted as leather treatment.
So far I've been pretty happy with plain old Vaseoline. It's tested safe enough for children's skin, and it does assist in making old leather pliable. Doesn't change the colour, and does preserve.

Again, different strokes fer different folks.
 
Bought my first Milsurp this month a 1944 Lee Enfield no4 mk1 sporterized and just this past week picked up a 1945 K98 israeli converted mauser.

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Just arrived today, a 1943 Long Branch No.4 MkI*, DCRA #1390 in 7.62mm. The bore is bright and sharp but there's a tiny bit of surface rust on the receiver and the two front sling swivels, as well as a few dings in the wood.

The bolt and receiver have the DCRA stamp and the number 1390. The barrel has 1390 in brackets at the chamber end and C broad Arrow and 7.62 at the muzzle. The only markings on the buttstock are at the bottom of the grip behind the trigger guard, a C Braod Arrow and B over 32. The front lower wood has B over 32, C Broad Arrow, A, then a B at the foreend and an R at the other end.

No markings on the magazine and I'm not sure what make it is. The rear sight has a B at the top left and is marked from 2 to 8 for range.

I don't have a scale, but offhand I'd say it's at least 1, maybe 2 pounds, lighter than my 1955 Fazakerly No.4 Mk2. Very noticeable difference.

What weight of bullet should I be loading for this? I have Sierra 150 grain FMJ and 154 grain HPBT on hand right now.

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Swiss K-31

Just got a very nice 1946 K-31 from Joe Salter's Down East Trading Co.
Packaging was first class as the contents.
All matching, perfect bore and chamber, very good wood.
A very nice example of S.I.G. swiss craftmanship.
I have been told there's a small I.D. tag under the buttplate. I'll take pics tomorrow. :D
PP.
 
Mauser Boer carbine.

Really excited about this acquisition. This Boer carbine is all matching, excellent condition (pics dont do it justice in my opinion), with a mint bore. Goes nicely beside my Boer rifle on the rack.
Cheers
Geoff
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Kind of late, but better than never. Here are some low quality images of my recently aquired M1891/30 Mosin-Nagant and an unsual find, Yugo M98 but in Gew98b rather than K98k. Also a Bubba P-14 in .303 .

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