S&W 686 6": Buy used or new? Resale value?

Mambo

Mambo

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Hi there,

I am lusting after this gun and hope to purchase one soon. I currently don't own a revolver and I don't know too much about them either. I do see quite a few pop up on the EE and although some are 10+ years old they are still going for $650 and up? And so I have some questions...

I know that each 'generation' of the gun was given a designation like 686-3, 686-4, etc...are used versions then in excellent condition more desirable than say the ones built now, considering components, resale value, etc? I see the model name Silhouette mentioned sometimes? I read some things about MIM parts and people not digging that? Hope I'm not resurrecting an old/ongoing argument! I don't plan to sell any of my guns ever (ha I'm sure some of you are snickering!) but it would be kinda cool knowing I have something somewhat rare or sought-after. And yes, I do plan to shoot the snot out of her, hehe.

Is there a significant difference in quality (finish) or advancement in design from current models as opposed to older? Somehow, I don't see 'wheelguns' changing too much over the years but please enlighten me!

Thanks for reading =) Any info greatly appreciated!
 
Definetly buy a used 686 in excellent condition. They are more desirable, will maintain their value if you take care of them, they are more refined and better looking. I paid around $500 for my used 686 from my local range and don't regret it at all. Mine is a 686-3.
 
686-3 is the 'desired' version from what I can tell. It has a hammer mounted firing pin - I think they went to a different mechanism on the -4 and later. The newer ones are not as 'good' as the older ones from what I gather. MIM parts and such.

I sold mine recently for $550 I think... they seem to drop in value when you buy new, but then seem to settle in the $500 range.
 
I have a 686-5 plus (7 shot) and I beleive that it is the first model with the MIM but no lock. I've read somewhere that the ones made with the lock can have a tendence to lock themselfs during firing. Check out h ttp://smith-wessonforum.com/. Lots of smart S&W ppl there.
 
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I would get a used one because they are a better value for the money, given the going rate for new vs. used 686s and they don't have the ugly zit in the frame for the internal lock. The main reason I would consider buying a new S&W would be if it was something I wanted that wasn't readily available used.

The MIM parts work fine, other than not looking as nice and requiring more care when doing a trigger job. I don't see any problem with frame mounted firing pins, seeing as the rimfire models have always had them.
 
Mambo said:
Hi there, I am lusting after this gun and hope to purchase one soon....I know that each 'generation' of the gun was given a designation like 686-3, 686-4, etc...are used versions then in excellent condition more desirable than say the ones built now, considering components, resale value, etc? I see the model name Silhouette mentioned sometimes? I read some things about MIM parts and people not digging that? Hope I'm not resurrecting an old/ongoing argument! I don't plan to sell any of my guns ever (ha I'm sure some of you are snickering!) but it would be kinda cool knowing I have something somewhat rare or sought-after. And yes, I do plan to shoot the snot out of her, hehe.

Is there a significant difference in quality (finish) or advancement in design from current models as opposed to older?
Click to expand...

1. Used 686's in excellent condition:rockOn:....this is the best value for money, as previous posters have said.

2. "Silhouette" refers to models with the 4-position adjustable front sight, to be able to zero for the 4 strings of fire at different distances in metallic silhouette events.

3. I prefer the later -3 model with "drilled and tapped" top strap for easy scope mounting. My early -3 does not have these holes.

Perhaps later "dash" models have the same feature.

4. Try to find a non-MIM parts version, specially since you intend to shoot much.

5. While I have personally had very good to excellent experience buying from the EE, try to find a piece locally, to see what you are buying.

Read this outstanding thread on revolver checkout from another forum.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430

6. I have 2 x 686-3 (one is a silhouette model) and 1 x 586-1. They do not lock-up like the proverbial bank vault, at least not anymore. But they are still as accurate as ever, and seem to be smoother and more fun to shoot.

7. I don't know of any particularly extra desirable 686 variation. Maybe a half-lug or CS model? AFAIK, they are just great shooters.
 
I think $500 is a really good deal. I have bought and sold one and then bought another one which I have now. My first I bought and sold it for $625 and I bought the one I own now for $600. In fact at the time there were about 3 or even 4 of them for sale on the EE and I think they were all around $600 shipped. My current one is in great shape, better than the first one. If you can find one for $500 jump on it.
 
i've got a 586-2 6" silhouette and absolutely love it!
afaik (on the 586 model) the dash nothing and dash 1 need to have an "M"
for modified on the part with the s/n and model #.
there was a recall because the guns would jam-up when using hot loads.
a firing pin bushing or something-or-other needed replacing...
 
Don't be afraid of the old "classics" either. If you'll shoot mostly .38Spl or +P then look at the Model 19's. If you plan on a more or less steady diet of .357 Magnum then look for a Model 27 or 28. I've got one each of the 19 and 28 and love them both. Despite the 28 being a little "loose" in lockup I've tested it and it isn't shaving lead that I can see. This test involved holding a loose curl of paper around the cylinder gap. There were a few specs that I suspect were powder particles (with the Magnums it gives quite a side flash!) but nothing that looked like a lead shaving hole. So if you can move it a little then don't sweat it. Perhaps use it as a bargaining chip. By "little" I mean it moves up to about a millimeter at the outer surface of the cylinder. This is in rotation. Fore and aft movement should be no more than the thickness of a piece of printer paper.
 
Of all the S&W revolvers, I love the L frames least. When they came out I figured they were simply a marketing ploy to lure buyers away from Pythons at a much lesser price, and I still think so. Doesn't make them bad guns though. The later dash models have had "improvements" made to them (and I do use the word loosely), that supposedly make them more reliable, more useful, or just cheaper to build. I much prefer N frame or K frame S&W's. FWIW - dan

Oh, and I've never worried about resale value of a firearm in my life.
 
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Oh wow thank so much everyone for the valuable info! I'm gonna have a read through all this. Yes, I'm definitely looking to buy used then =)
 
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