Cleaning CZ 858

Just a FYI, I got a couple of 1120 cases dated 99 and there not corosive, Haven't been able to find any since. I saved one strip to show every one that I wasn't on glue when I was asking around for more.
 
Opinions

Opinions are like arse'oles - everybody got one.
Problem is - they vary.

Test windex then test hot water.
Find out for yourself which is better.
Pay attention to science not opinion.

My testing shows Windex does not cause flash rust because Ammonia D in Windex is not ammonia. Ammonia D is a dessicant that prevents flash rust.It has no effect on copper and none on the mystery metal bullet coating on surplus com bloc ammo.

Hot water causes flash rust. You cant get hot water with ammonia D.
But you can get windex which is easier to use than hot water.

By the way - I have been using Windex exclusively with corrosive ammo for years and have had no corrosive salt effect.

As far as grease on a Cz goes - it stays longer than oil and is more effective at lubricating , but Break Free CLP makes receiver clean up easier because of its ability to dissolve and keep in suspension the carbon.
armscare.jpg


BUT - like I said - there is no substitute for testing yourself ;)
 
Thanks for the responses on why to use water. I was a little hesitant about using it but it sounds pretty common. I did have a look at the Hoppe's #9 that I have, it states that it is semiauto solvent but does not have anything written on it about corrosive ammo. I use this for removing copper from my pistols. I will have to have a closer look next time at the gun shop at the different products under the Hoppe's name.
 
chopper 1 said:
Opinions are like arse'oles - everybody got one.
Problem is - they vary.

Test windex then test hot water.
Find out for yourself which is better.
Pay attention to science not opinion.

My testing shows Windex does not cause flash rust because Ammonia D in Windex is not ammonia. Ammonia D is a dessicant that prevents flash rust.It has no effect on copper and none on the mystery metal bullet coating on surplus com bloc ammo.

Hot water causes flash rust. You cant get hot water with ammonia D.
But you can get windex which is easier to use than hot water.

By the way - I have been using Windex exclusively with corrosive ammo for years and have had no corrosive salt effect.

As far as grease on a Cz goes - it stays longer than oil and is more effective at lubricating , but Break Free CLP makes receiver clean up easier because of its ability to dissolve and keep in suspension the carbon.
armscare.jpg


BUT - like I said - there is no substitute for testing yourself ;)
Click to expand...

We have done this over and over, It should be a sticky.

You have byfar said it best. I agree 100% Good job.
 
I did the boiling water down the barrel last night on some of my SKS's and my CZ 858. My question now is, do you leave the thing disassembled overnight so the gas pistol hole can dry? I got in there as much as possible with a Q-tip and I figured that the extreme heat of the metal would evaporate the water so I put it all back together. What do you guys do?
 
Can I be an a$$h0le too?

Sweet's 7.62 Solvent
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If you shoot a lot of old surplus ammo, you need Sweets 7.62. The ammonia in this cleaner will dissolve salts deposited in your barrel by old, corrosive-priming. Sweet's easily removes powder residue and stubborn copper fouling. It's a non-acid formula with 5 percent ammonia. Sweet's is also recommended by Dillon for cleaning carbide sizing dies where nickel or brass is sticking to the insert.
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Works great on my firearms.
 
I prefer grease in all of my firearms, levers, bolt, self loaders. I use exxon Moly 1 high temperature synthetic grease in all my firearms. I notice immediately that the springs seem to have greater force and the action noise is at least cut in half from oil. The grease never runs, never evaporates and provides an addition protective coating from dirt and grime.

I have a $20 princess auto wash basin with varsol in it. An old tooth brush works wonders for cleaning a firearm and ensuring all of the parts are clean. Then a modelers 5mm wide paintbrush works great for applying grease to the moving parts.
 
I use hot soapy water and then rinse down with Reverse Osmosis water. (I have a tap at my laundry sink). I figure it can't help and since RO water is so aggresive it will desolve almost anything. I also use compressed air to dry everything up fast. Never had a problem with rust.
I do check my gun 2 to 3 days after a cleaning just to make sure
 
Yes !

Satain said:
Works great on my firearms.
Click to expand...

Sweets is the best ammonia copper cleaner out there - BUT - ammonia supposedly causes spiderweb cracks in the barrel steel with long or improper use.

Also - it takes a lot of rod stroking to get all the copper out, just like JB paste.

KG 12 (military copper cleaner for cannon barrels) makes a 3 hour stroking job into a 3 minute job.

The shot glass tests proved this --
 
the tech at wolverine supplies told me to use WD40 to neutralize the salts, and if you look in your CZ manual it says to use WD-40 specifically.

None the less i use Windex and lube it with CLP. May try the greas though... on the inner tracks.
 
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BAH! Reading the instructions are a sign of weakness. I actually just got done scraping out the bore of my 858-2 (my "dirty little secret"). Tried using Ballistol, and that seemed to want to work. I should trot back downstairs to my secret lair and run a patch of WD-40 thru the pipe.

Keep in mind, he said "IF" and that the guy at Wolverine said so. Sounds pretty third hand to me. Keep up the good work.
 
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