steel BB

legi0n

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As you may be aware, there's no affordable source of steel shot in Canada. Or at least I'm not aware of such.
I was thinking of loading airsoft copper plated steel BB.
They come in bottles of 1500 for about $5 which translates into 26 loads of 1 1/8oz or 19 cents per load.

Any reason no to do it?
Are they really copper plated steel?

edit: calculations
$0.05 primer
$0.10 powder
$0.20 shot
$0.025 wad
free hulls from the range
that's about $10 a box of 25
 
I think BB's are way too hard for that. I seem to remember reading that someplace. Too elastic and hard enough to damage the barrel or choke.

Steel shot in shotshells is closer to 'iron shot' if I think.

It would be nice if they were useable though. Maybe I'm wrong.
 
"...they really copper plated steel?..." A magnet pick them up?
"...Steel shot in shotshells is..." Mild steel for sure.
 
Do not load air rifle BB's in shot shells, they are way to hard, for your bore, and choke.

Call Wil Bilozir in DeWinton Ab. for shotshell components.


http://www.bilozir.net/

I got a quote once from Bilozir and I gave up steelshot loading then and there.
I'm not too worried about hardness since the shot travels in a cup while in the barrel. Steel shot cups have overlapping leafs to avoid steel to steel rubbing.
 
I got a quote once from Bilozir and I gave up steelshot loading then and there.
I'm not too worried about hardness since the shot travels in a cup while in the barrel. Steel shot cups have overlapping leafs to avoid steel to steel rubbing.

yes finaly some one posted my biggest question.
I keep on reading about how not to shoot steel shot if your gun is old or to some sort of that.
there seems to be this big argument on this, saying do or dont
but i have always thought that the "shot" lead or steel is encased in a sabot of some sort that splits away when leaving the barrel.

so correct me if i'm wrong and i know you will. but isnt the shot traveling down the barrel in the sabot, so really by rights shouldnt matter if you shoot steel or lead becouse the plastic sabot is really the only thing that is comming in contact with your barrel.
 
yes finaly some one posted my biggest question.
I keep on reading about how not to shoot steel shot if your gun is old or to some sort of that.
there seems to be this big argument on this, saying do or dont
but i have always thought that the "shot" lead or steel is encased in a sabot of some sort that splits away when leaving the barrel.

so correct me if i'm wrong and i know you will. but isnt the shot traveling down the barrel in the sabot, so really by rights shouldnt matter if you shoot steel or lead becouse the plastic sabot is really the only thing that is comming in contact with your barrel.

When I was younger and really curious, I opened some shells and the [lead] shot was not in a sabot or cupped wad. There was a felt wad between 2 cardboard discs over the powder and another one on top of the shot. With soft lead this is not a problem.
As for steel, any recipe I've seen requires special "steel approved" wads.
 
yes finaly some one posted my biggest question.
I keep on reading about how not to shoot steel shot if your gun is old or to some sort of that.

There are two issues here; be sure to use shot cups intended for steel shot rather than the much thinner ones for lead shot. Steel shot cups are intentionally thick to prevent the shot from chafing through and scratching the bore.
Second issue relative to older guns is that the forcing cones should be long cones (done with a chamber reamer) and the choke should be less and more gradual (both) for best pattern.

cheers mooncoon
 
that might be because steel loads require higher pressure to attain effective energy.

No, it's because the barrel steel in older guns may not be hard enough to resist scoring should the wad wear through. I've picked up a few steel shot wads with holes worn through them.

AFAIK the pressure specs for shotshells have not changed. Steel shells aren't loaded to higher pressures than max performance lead shells.

The problem with trying to use steel shot that is too hard (such as airgun BB's) is not just about barrel and choke wear. Steel that is harder has a higher modulus of elasticity. This translates to more rebound from the initial deformation that takes place when the powder is ignited. You will likely end up with high pressure even when using steel shot load data. If you back the load off to compensate you'll get erratic velocity and too much powder fouling. Airgun BB's are just too 'springy' to be used effectively.

This is nothing new, it's written about in a copy of 'Reloading for Shotgunners' that I have from the early '80's.
 
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