LNL AP Powder Cop Die

Onagoth

Onagoth

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Do you guys use this, I have one but I'm undecided if its useful. Usually I can visually examine the powder level before placing the bullet.

I'd prefer to separate the seating/crimping function (if I free up the powder cop station), but am interested in opinions. I have a case feeder on the way, which may make it easier to spot under/over charged cases as I won't have to worry about manually placing cases anymore. What do you all think?


Also, I am having some intermittent trouble with the primer shuttle. Sometimes, some pressure is required at the top of the ram stroke. This causes the shuttle to stay locked back so that at the bottom of the stroke, there is no primer seating happening.

Any advice?

Sorry for all the LNL questions recently, but I'm sure there are people out there with much more experience than me using this press.
 
I put the dillion audible powder check on mine, only because I don't have to look at it for it to warn me. I figure between it and checking the powder before I put the bullet in I should be safe. About 5000 rounds so far and still good.

As far as the primers, the way it's designed it only goes back so far at the top of the stroke. You probably have some powder under neath. I took mine out and polished it. Also cleaned out the primer seater, had a piece of metal in there jamming it.
I lube that area with Gunk dry lube. I know some will chime in, no lube no lube. It is a dry lube and hasn't caused any problems so far. I also use it to lube my cases. Have them in a icecream bucket, spray , mix em up and let them dry (couple minutes) really smooths thing up.
 
mojoman said:
I put the dillion audible powder check on mine, only because I don't have to look at it for it to warn me.
Click to expand...

I have one as well but I still look (force of habit) Keep in mind that it does not check for partial charges...just doubles (depending on your load) or squibs.

Still...a very useful addition.

Onagoth...I would not give up separate seating and crimping in exchange for the powder check die...you're giving up more than you're gaining.
 
Onagoth said:
What do you all think?
[...]
This causes the shuttle to stay locked back so that at the bottom of the stroke, there is no primer seating happening.
Click to expand...
1) rcbs lock-out die - once set up, you can ignore it until the press stops moving. So you don't spend any attention on it, unlike the powder cop.
http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/LockOutDie_Instructions.pdf

2) most likely some dirt / debris on the slider or in the channel, so remove and clean. Failing that, polish it and / or the channel.
 
RCBS Lockout die is the cats ass for straight walled pistol. For tapered brass, (ie .223 Rem) you're back to the powder cop.

I cheat a bit, in a counterproductive way, but it gets me around some of the issues you're having with die positions and dirty shuttles. I re-size/deprime my brass in a separate operation, then tumble the brass and primer pockets clean using 1 mm ceramic media. In other words, I start with re-sized, deprimed & cleaned brass.

I doubt you'll find many progressive users who opt for this two step process but if you do this, it'll solve the problems you've mentioned and be better for your dies to boot.
 
i got an rcbs powder check die ±30$
basicly a die with a moving rod in front of a meter. Set the meter to the appropriate rod height then you're good to go. Squibs and doubles wont go unnoticed
 
Isnt the cop die more like tge lock out die from rcbs?
The powder check is only an eye aid...

Ne way go with the budget
And support ur local dealer if possible
 
Onagoth said:
Sounds very similar to the powder cop die :)
Click to expand...

Nope. The RCBS Lockout die automatically locks up your press when the charge is not right. The Hornady Powder Cop has an indicator band which must be visually monitored.

The RCBS Die, however, only works with straight walled pistol brass.
 
I bought the RCBS lockout instead of the powder cop. One of you guys above talked me into it (don't remember who) but I'm glad you did. I had a hey of a time figuring out how to make it work and it takes some time to change calibers. I like it now though. The powder cop was hard to get as well.

I don't mind how many questions are asked about the LNL because I read each one and learn something from the guys above every time.

It was acrashb's write up that convinced me to buy one in the first place.

:rockOn:LNL AP
 
HKMark23 said:
Nope. The RCBS Lockout die automatically locks up your press when the charge is not right. The Hornady Powder Cop has an indicator band which must be visually monitored.

The RCBS Die, however, only works with straight walled pistol brass.
Click to expand...

he's actually right the powder check from RCBS and powder cop from hornady are the same.

however powder check die and lockout die are two totally different products offered by rcbs.
thing with the powder cop is, i dont have the unit in hand but from what i can see on google, the rod rises but you dont have a meter to gauge if theres a double or a squid. the rcbs powder check die however, and now i can tell from having it, has a meter that allows easier guauging

in the end only your preference matters, that was just to clear up the confusion
 
charles.emond said:
he's actually right the powder check from RCBS and powder cop from hornady are the same.

however powder check die and lockout die are two totally different products offered by rcbs.
thing with the powder cop is, i dont have the unit in hand but from what i can see on google, the rod rises but you dont have a meter to gauge if theres a double or a squid. the rcbs powder check die however, and now i can tell from having it, has a meter that allows easier guauging

in the end only your preference matters, that was just to clear up the confusion
Click to expand...

I thought the powder check and lockout die were separate.

The powder cop die has a white ring thats meant to be flush with the die top in a properly charged load....IMO, if your watching it, its pretty obvious is you have a double charge or squib, even without a specific meter
 
Onagoth said:
I thought the powder check and lockout die were separate.
Click to expand...
Yes like i said, powder check and lockout are two different products. Powder cop from hornady is similar to powder check from rcbs.




Onagoth said:
The powder cop die has a white ring thats meant to be flush with the die top in a properly charged load....IMO, if your watching it, its pretty obvious is you have a double charge or squib, even without a specific meter
Click to expand...
again, the only difference is the meter and preference comes into play :)
 
charles.emond said:
he's actually right the powder check from RCBS and powder cop from hornady are the same.
Click to expand...

Nope, he's actually wrong. I have em both. Got em both for a reason. They're different as per my earlier post. They look alike but function quite differently.

For straight walled pistol the RCBS Lockout die is the way to go. Nothing to watch. The press will lock up if you get a squib or a double. The Powder Cop needs to be watched.
 
HKMark23 said:
Nope, he's actually wrong. I have em both. Got em both for a reason. They're different as per my earlier post. They look alike but function quite differently.

For straight walled pistol the RCBS Lockout die is the way to go. Nothing to watch. The press will lock up if you get a squib or a double. The Powder Cop needs to be watched.
Click to expand...

so you have the rcbs lockout die or the rcbs powder check die? (maybe you mean both as in all 3 dies...)
from what I understand you have the lockout die and the powder cop, but not the powder check which is the rcbs version of the powder cop from hornady
I think you just assumed the powder check die from rcbs was the same as the lockout die. They are two different products. Therefore Onagoth was right.

this is the lockout from RCBS:


this is the powder check from RCBS:


this is the powder cop from hornady
 
HKMark23 said:
RCBS Lockout die is the cats ass for straight walled pistol. For tapered brass, (ie .223 Rem) you're back to the powder cop.

I cheat a bit, in a counterproductive way, but it gets me around some of the issues you're having with die positions and dirty shuttles. I re-size/deprime my brass in a separate operation, then tumble the brass and primer pockets clean using 1 mm ceramic media. In other words, I start with re-sized, deprimed & cleaned brass.

I doubt you'll find many progressive users who opt for this two step process but if you do this, it'll solve the problems you've mentioned and be better for your dies to boot.
Click to expand...


Sorry to side track the discussion but I thought it was bad for wearing out the primer pockets when you tumble the brass deprimed? I considered doing the same thing but that scared me off.
 
Davy Crockett said:
Sorry to side track the discussion but I thought it was bad for wearing out the primer pockets when you tumble the brass deprimed? I considered doing the same thing but that scared me off.
Click to expand...

I haven't heard of this being a problem before though it does seem logical. I've only been using wet ceramic media long enough to have run batches of 45 ACP through this process a few times. So far so good but it'll be interesting to see what happens over time. If pockets go to hell before the necks do, I'll adopt another method. No problems so far though.
 
As stupid as this may sound if your having problems with primers feeding check to make sure you have the tapered end of the feed tube down. I know I did this once and the primers keep getting stuck. If both ends look the same or your not sure it's seeting all the way take the threaded lower part above the shuttle off (1 allen bolt) and check that when you put the feed tube into it from the underside that you get a flush mount. When you have that flush mount you will notice the tapered / grooved end of the feed tube.
 
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