Ive been using Sellier & Bellot 9mm in my beretta 92 and it has had one failure to feed and 2 failures to extract in 400 rounds. Is there somethign wrong with my gun or is this to be expected with a beretta?? Or is it posibly a problem with me not using +p rated ammo?? I have no idea so i need some help please!
Berreta jamming!!??!!
- Thread starter thehulk
- Start date
I presume you are using the 115gr ammo. I had a similar problem when I started to use it in my Browning HP but things have been running OK lately with the same lot number. But I have not exceeded 400 rounds yet.
I think the charge in that ammo might be a bit marginal to cycle the action and S&B quality control may be a bit shakey. I just found a round with a perforated primer in a brand new box which makes me wonder.
Federal American Eagle 124 gr runs just fine and is not really more expensive.
I think the charge in that ammo might be a bit marginal to cycle the action and S&B quality control may be a bit shakey. I just found a round with a perforated primer in a brand new box which makes me wonder.
Federal American Eagle 124 gr runs just fine and is not really more expensive.
just having some fun
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
use a cleaner to clean
use oil or grease as required to lube and protect
i had a problem years ago(stove piping) saved problem brass when i had 5-6 pcs of brass then i started to look at found my problem with a micrometer
my problem was a small rim on some range brass
use oil or grease as required to lube and protect
i had a problem years ago(stove piping) saved problem brass when i had 5-6 pcs of brass then i started to look at found my problem with a micrometer
my problem was a small rim on some range brass
- Location
- Off the "X"
Is it a new gun and still going through it's "break in" period?
+1
I have no Beretta 92's now but I have owned a few different ones over the years. All were extremely reliable
NAA.
Beretta's don't really have a brake in period...
Weird...:S never shot the S&B ammo but the ONLY time my 92FS jammed was ONE time with seriously underpowered handloads (my fault) other than that it's been 100.% in thousands of rounds fired...and it's been a while since I cleaned it too...
Weird...:S never shot the S&B ammo but the ONLY time my 92FS jammed was ONE time with seriously underpowered handloads (my fault) other than that it's been 100.% in thousands of rounds fired...and it's been a while since I cleaned it too...
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that slide is SUPPOSED to come forward like a express train- my old ( and i do mean OLD) SB feeds everything i care to put into it- but the previous owner has polished the feed ramp in the frame for presumably the same reason- however it could also be bubba not knowing what he was doing, either way, he goofed the frame- it could also be your spring is getting weak- but first, i'd blame the ammo
My M9 Has seen lately about 500 round of Blazer 124g (aluminium case) and about the same of Remington UMC in 115g (brass case), and both worked flawlessly. It has been shot by a number of different people both with limp wrist and also with the death grip, and still not once in its life has it failed in any way. I hate to admit it but it hasn't been cleaned in about a 1000 rounds either and still functions perfect.
Hoppes #9 is a cleaner. It is not an oil.
I ran tests, once, to see what products prevented rust. A nail cleaned with Hoppes #9 showed rust in one day. Not an oil.
There are many oils available. The main thing is to put a couple of drops in all the right places. I use Break Free (CLP) to lube the internal parts (trigger and hammer) and moly grease on the rails.
Any oil you happen to have in the shop will probably get your pistol working perfectly. I have put a few thousands of rounds through a 92 and it never failed.
When it comes to ammo, guns tend to do better with one brand over another. This is an individual gun preference. My 92 might like the ammo yours does not. Bullet shapes vary and this can decide what ammo feeds best in a particualr gun.
If you happen to find a box of ammo that shoots particularly well (say, very accurately) then you would be wise to buy a lot of the same lot# right away.
I used to work at an ammo company. We would make certian kinds of ammo only once a year, and the more popular types maybe four times a year. each time we did it, the lot# of the powder would be different, for sure. the powder charge would probably be differrent and sometimes the type of power would be different, depending on what was available.
We would look in the bunker, looking for enough powder to load, say, 5 million rounds of 9mm. There might be 5 different powders available for the job, but maybe only one or two in sufficient quantity. So maybe this lot is loaded with 231, whereas the last lot was loaded with a shotgun power.
When you buy your favorite brand of ammo, if it is a different lot number it could be a very different load compared to what youshot before.
Commercial ammo is loaded to a certain velocity spec and in most calibers there are a lot of different powders that will work. Each compnay has a preferred powder for the job, but sometimes uses something else.
Also, the powder is not cannister grade. Even if they always use, say, 231, the powder they receive each time is a different speed, so they have to adjust the powder charge to suit that particular lot of powder.
The "Dot" powders (Red dot, Blue Dot, Green Dot) are numbered for speed, at the commercial level. Red Dot 1 is the fastest. Red Dot 4 is the slowest. If my favorit elaod is red Dot 4 and I don't have enough, I might load Green Dot 1, instead.
Moral of the story - if you find something the gun really likes, buy more of the same lot #.
I ran tests, once, to see what products prevented rust. A nail cleaned with Hoppes #9 showed rust in one day. Not an oil.
There are many oils available. The main thing is to put a couple of drops in all the right places. I use Break Free (CLP) to lube the internal parts (trigger and hammer) and moly grease on the rails.
Any oil you happen to have in the shop will probably get your pistol working perfectly. I have put a few thousands of rounds through a 92 and it never failed.
When it comes to ammo, guns tend to do better with one brand over another. This is an individual gun preference. My 92 might like the ammo yours does not. Bullet shapes vary and this can decide what ammo feeds best in a particualr gun.
If you happen to find a box of ammo that shoots particularly well (say, very accurately) then you would be wise to buy a lot of the same lot# right away.
I used to work at an ammo company. We would make certian kinds of ammo only once a year, and the more popular types maybe four times a year. each time we did it, the lot# of the powder would be different, for sure. the powder charge would probably be differrent and sometimes the type of power would be different, depending on what was available.
We would look in the bunker, looking for enough powder to load, say, 5 million rounds of 9mm. There might be 5 different powders available for the job, but maybe only one or two in sufficient quantity. So maybe this lot is loaded with 231, whereas the last lot was loaded with a shotgun power.
When you buy your favorite brand of ammo, if it is a different lot number it could be a very different load compared to what youshot before.
Commercial ammo is loaded to a certain velocity spec and in most calibers there are a lot of different powders that will work. Each compnay has a preferred powder for the job, but sometimes uses something else.
Also, the powder is not cannister grade. Even if they always use, say, 231, the powder they receive each time is a different speed, so they have to adjust the powder charge to suit that particular lot of powder.
The "Dot" powders (Red dot, Blue Dot, Green Dot) are numbered for speed, at the commercial level. Red Dot 1 is the fastest. Red Dot 4 is the slowest. If my favorit elaod is red Dot 4 and I don't have enough, I might load Green Dot 1, instead.
Moral of the story - if you find something the gun really likes, buy more of the same lot #.
